Removing Pro Valve DIN insert?

[geoff w]

I have an XS Scuba HP80 with the Pro Valve DIN/yoke setup, and have never taken the DIN insert out, since my regulators are yoke. Sometimes it's extremely hard to get a fill whip or my regulator off my tank, but never have a problem with my regulator on other tanks. One of the last times I filled my tank, they thought there was a problem with the DIN plug. I've never removed it, but it looks like the hex area is starting to get rounded out. I tried to remove it with a hex socket, but didn't want to use too much force for fear of rounding the hex area and never being able to remove the DIN plug

Any brilliant suggestions for removing the DIN plug if it's been in there a while? If I strip the hex insert, is there any alternative to it being a permanent yoke valve or replacing the whole Thermo Pro DIN/K Valve? I'm assuming I can replace the little DIN plug IF I can get it out

 

[JohnN]

I have an XS Scuba HP80 with the Pro Valve DIN/yoke setup, and have never taken the DIN insert out, since my regulators are yoke. Sometimes it's extremely hard to get a fill whip or my regulator off my tank, but never have a problem with my regulator on other tanks. One of the last times I filled my tank, they thought there was a problem with the DIN plug. I've never removed it, but it looks like the hex area is starting to get rounded out. I tried to remove it with a hex socket, but didn't want to use too much force for fear of rounding the hex area and never being able to remove the DIN plug

Any brilliant suggestions for removing the DIN plug if it's been in there a while? If I strip the hex insert, is there any alternative to it being a permanent yoke valve or replacing the whole Thermo Pro DIN/K Valve? I'm assuming I can replace the little DIN plug IF I can get it out

If you use the proper sized hex wrench for the insert, I don't understand how it would become rounded. Can you please explain how exactly you're trying to remove the insert?

 

[rhwestfall]

if you use the right hex key, it shouldn't round out..... It might be metric (I have multiple convertible valves, and some are metric - can't remember which)....

 

[nimoh]

You should be able to remove the insert with a hex socket. If you are straining to remove it, you might try lightly tapping the valve with a rubber mallet to jar it loose. If that doesn't work you might try hitting it a little harder, or getting a bigger socket wrench to put more torque on the socket. Before doing these things, I would probably drain the tank down to 100psi or so, just in case.

I would definitely stop short of using a breaker bar or impact wrench, since at some point you may be looking at damaging the tank as well as the valve

Worst case scenario is you need to buy a new valve which will run you $40 or so.

 

[geoff w]

I've never tried to remove the DIN plug before, but when I looked the hex insert looked like the inside corners were slightly rounded. I bought the tank new, but it had been sitting around for several years. It is a metric hex wrench size

I always rinse off the tank and valve well after diving, but trying to figure out why yokes sometimes get stuck on this valve. I don't think it should take excessive force to remove the DIN insert, which is why I asked

 

[nimoh]

I've never tried to remove the DIN plug before, but when I looked the hex insert looked like the inside corners were slightly rounded. I bought the tank new, but it had been sitting around for several years. It is a metric hex wrench size

I always rinse off the tank and valve well after diving, but trying to figure out why yokes sometimes get stuck on this valve. I don't think it should take excessive force to remove the DIN insert, which is why I asked

It shouldn't take excessive force to remove a valve insert that is a year old, unless someone used excessive first to put it in

 

[geoff w]

Tank is several years old, and has already had its first hydro and one or two visuals since

Any wise tips for avoiding something like this in the future? How often should the DIN inserts be removed just to keep them from permanently getting stuck?

 

[kwinter]

I usually service valves every 5 years with hydro. But if the slugs are a problem I would do it annually with VIP. Maybe drop the whole valve in the ultrasonic to break up whatever crud is keeping the slug in. And if you want a new slug, just let me know. I have dozens.

EDIT: Come to think of it, you might find a way to suspend the tank upside down over the ultrasonic with just the valve opening submerged. I'll bet that would do it.

iPhone. iTypo. iApologize.

 

[Akimbo]

You can remove the valve and service it in an ultrasonic cleaner if you are near a hydro or VIP date.

Another option is to soak the valve in a white vinegar and water solution. Mix in a bucket and set the tank in valve-down. This will help dissolve any corrosion and dried salt. Then try to remove the insert. Make sure there is gas in the bottle so you can rinse and blow out any water in the valve.

 

[Jim Lapenta]

I learned about this the hard way. Leave the damn inserts out and get DIN regs! Problem solved. I'm guessing over the years mineral deposits have built up on the threads. Surprised the place doing visuals did not catch it. The shop I take mine to for vis and hydro's always removes the inserts to check the o rings on them. On the other hand maybe yours tried to and used the wrong wrench or tightened the things too much. I don't like to leave threaded stuff together like this for long periods. Even diving my regs in fresh water I remove the envirocaps and wipe them down and the threads on the reg body after every dive outing. I have the top end of a reg sitting here from a guys reg who did not do that. He had to replace it as even a vice and pipe wrench could not break them loose. He did that not me. I used a band saw to get them apart. Use it as a visual aid in reg class to demonstrate why you should take care of this part.