Flash Rust Help

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cbrantley531

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I just got 3 Worthington Hp 100s in the mail the other day I bought. They were manufactured in 2010. Once I got to looking at them, 1 of them has a little flash rust in the bottom of the tank which isn't a big deal to me, the other 2 have flash rust on the bottom as well as on the sides of the tank.

Id rather not have to tumble the tanks due to my Local shop is outrageous in pricing.

What can I do to get this rust out?
 
Tumbling is the only real solution. This is not suposed to be an expensive job. Take them somewhere else if needed. The problem is O2, if you planned on storing helium in them, then no problem.
 
any of your buddies have a treadmill? If they do you can tumble them on a treadmill. Just throw some ceramic or glass media in there from harbor freight with a bit of diluted simple green *distilled water preferred*, and tumble for a few hours, nbd. Rinse, put some rust inhibitor in there, and good to go.
 
If it's really just flash rust, you're worrying too much.
 
Wow...Tumble for alittle flash?..Add rust inhibitor?...

Dude..Ace hardware...30" of AL rod..a 1/2" pvc pipe insert to protect tank threads..and some light SS garage door wire. Line wrap the SS wire on rod...leave 6-7" tail...chuck it in a drill..and go to town. 5 minutes. done. Blow it clean...Or rinse with HOT water. Dry immediately with scuba air.
DON'T add any chemicals unless your O2 cleaning.
Simple as that.
 
Bubbleoff has the right idea, there are also wire brushes on long handles that will do the same job. The trick is to use really hot water to rinse and dry it with scuba air quickly. I have a couple of LP72s that have come back from hydro with a bit of flash rust. It's not harmful, but I understand wanting the inside of your tank to be pristine.
 
Once you've cleaned the cylinder and rinsed any chemical residue use a steam wallpaper stripper to heat the interior of the cylinder to at least 80 deg C (use an IR thermometer). You can't overheat the cylinder with this technique as the steam can never be over 100 deg C.

Then blast a full tank of fresh scuba air through the cylinder. The heat from the cylinder metal will cause any residual moisture to evaporate in the air stream.
 
Thanks for the input yall!
But Ive read a lot about whipping the tanks and that is probably the route I will take.
The reason I don't want to take to my local shop is they are way over priced and will try to convince me to get tumbled.
 
But Ive read a lot about whipping the tanks and that is probably the route I will take. The reason I don't want to take to my local shop is they are way over priced and will try to convince me to get tumbled.
It doesn't matter whether you 'whip' them or 'tumble' them. That is NOT the issue. Do YOU have the equipment to do either? If you do, this thread is a non-starter. If you don't, this thread is a non-starter.

Out of curiosity, what do you consider 'way over priced'. We do the job for $60. I can 'whip' them, or I can 'tumble' them. I charge the same for both. If you find someone to do a COMPETENT job for less, you should use them.
 
for flash rust, you can easily 'whip' the tank yourself. stainless steel wire like described above would work but NEVER use it on an aluminum tank. you will remove metal and could get the cylinder condemned. you can make a whip for cheap or buy one for around 60 bucks.
 

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