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The shortest rope light I could find is six feet long. Any idea what one has to do to shorten to two feet :06:
With the light OFF inspect the internal bulb wiring closely using a backlight source. Most have several bulbs wired in series off the main power leads so you can't cut just anywhere and have it still work. The one I made several inspection lights from was 20V with 18 bulbs in series, then repeat. The light can be cut at any of the spaces between the series sets. I got about 6 inspection lights out of one rope light string. Cut at the gaps, then splice on a 120V plug and cord (spare computer power cords seem to work fine and are both ubiquitous and free.) Solder the connectons and slide heat shrink over each one, then overpot with a second heat shrink and some epoxy filler.
For a portable 12V light a couple of the low voltage "garden light" bulbs soldered onto a old speaker wire with alligator clips attached makes a truck or boat friendly inspection light small enoug to fit into 3/4"-14 tank necks.
I used to use any old flashlight bulb that matched the voltage of whatever little transformer I had laying around. For some reason the power supplies from radios, calculators, etc seem to multiply & exceed the amount of said appliances.
Some stiff wire, solder, & heat shrink make a light that can be manipulated right next to any questionable areas. I always preferred a single point light source because it could get maneuvered around to accent the relief/profile of any suspect areas, the contrast makes them stand out better.
I used a 50W bulb from my old halogen cave light and just hook it up to the old SLAs I used for the light and the entire cylinder is painfully bright inside! It works very, very well. I'll find out the bulb designation tonight.