Fiji - Naigani, Wakaya, Pacific Harbour - Some Words and Pics - Sept 2013

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Wantonmien

Contributor
Messages
1,777
Reaction score
201
Location
Philippines (Ex Taiwan & Oz)
# of dives
200 - 499
Philippines had been our regular destination for dive holidays for a few years, with last trip report posted here - http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/ph...ogod-bay-some-words-pics-may-june-2013-a.html - but moving to Australia in 2012 and with the lack of dive centres within reach of our Queensland coastal work base to get out to the Barrier Reef, we decided we'd explore new locations - with Fiji our first target.

A bit of a delay with posting a report, but early September 2013 - we flew Fiji airlines landing us in Nadi with a domestic flight to hop across to Nausori (Suva) – with initial destination Naigani island resort (off East coast), it seeming a pretty good deal with transfers/villa/food/set amount of boat dives & unlimited free lagoon diving booked as an 'all in' package.

So here we go, FIJI - Naigani, Wakaya, Pacific Harbour - in case it helps anyone

Arrival and Transfers
Dawn landing and a short hop on a domestic flight, resort arranged taxi awaited us and off we set for an hour or so drive to get our prearranged boat to island - arrived at jetty, but no pre booked boat awaited. Weather was foul, windy and drizzle - but we are on holiday and these things happen, though half an hour later with no transfer boat in view across the rough grey choppy waters, patience was wearing thin, island resort insisted the boat for the supposed 30 minute journey had left island 30 minutes back (it should have been waiting for us !) - and after 30 minutes or so of twiddling thumbs, I had pretty much agreed a price with taxi to take us back to Suva and we'd go and stay elsewhere ! :shakehead:.

And then a little speck appeared in the waves. eventually an hour or more late our little boat arrived. I'm a pretty good swimmer, but seeing the little boat size against the obvious rough seas meant even I was sceptical about making the journey to the island - but we did, the boat rolled, we got wet, we wondered how long it would be until the boat flipped over. Not a boat ride for the faint hearted, in fact not a boat trip I’d like to take again in that weather. Being late was one thing, being in a boat far too small to be classed as safe was another – and on arrival at island, resort boss wasn't really bothered, and said she had sent the smaller boat as the larger one had taken out a dive group …. Such is life.

Resort.
With blue skies, sunshine and flat blue seas it would have been idyllic, but with grey skies, drizzle, wind, rough churned up water in the lagoon - not what we expected. Villa itself was roomy, had seen better days but could have been an awful lot worse, shower room in the villa though - yeuch, screaming out for a good clean, disinfectant and bleach - ok, ok we were on a little island, tired and a bit annoyed with the journey - but the bathroom, no excuses, simply put it was disgusting. The water in taps not for drinking – as it is stored in an open pool in the forest and shared with the wildlife. Meanwhile outside, palm trees swinging, coconuts dropping, hammocks on the beach, nice pool, a pool side bar - all the right ingredients - if the weather was better. While there we also made the customary tour of the Fijian village across the island and it was worth it, local customs, local food, local Kava (a mild natural narcotic), local dancing and a snapshot of how customs are still remembered.

I read on Facebook a couple of days back (Jan 2014) that the resort has new management and are sprucing the place up ?

Resort Food.
Had to pre book lunch and dinner choice at earlier meals, but in all fairness overall food quality was not bad at all, some things a bit basic but as there is just the one resort/restaurant on the island, and it was all pre paid it was fine, pretty good actually. Cost of drinks or a bottle of wine with dinner - ouch, not cheap, in fact not cheap at all - more expensive than Australia !

Diving from Naigani
Resort dive centre pretty basic, some gear to rent if needed (albeit we took most of our own gear), air in the tanks seemed fine, European dive guide fine, small and large dive boats staffed by Fijians, but alas during our stay the weather remained grotty. The churned up rough waters and drizzly grey skies destroyed the idea we'd be diving in crystal clear blue water, and the visibility was around 8 metres at best - also the unlimited free diving in the lagoon never happened as the conditions just weren't good enough. We did though make several prepaid dives from the boat at a few sites close to the resort, where there were some nice fan and other healthy corals, there were fish we were not used to seeing, we saw glances of small sharks every dive, saw some turtles and with still waters and good visibility we might have been impressed, but have to say we were disappointed. :depressed:

Wanting to believe we could beat the rotten weather, we did agree to a pricey long boat trip to Wakaya Wall - to see reportedly the best diving around Fiji. Boat trip was long - very long, weather was rough as hell, the feeling of 'was this wise' to be out at sea in a small rolling boat was there - but we reached the destination, and by some miracle on arrival a round shiny hot thing appeared in the sky - the sun came out. :mostlysunny:We heard on route about what we could reportedly expect to see, hammerheads, mantas and plenty of life so we were looking forward to our dives on Wakaya.

The ocean was blue, the drop off from the reef could be seen, and within five minutes of getting in and descending down a wall in good viz 20 metres or more, my partner (she was at the back of group) gave me a "go up and look" pointed signal, so to the top of the reef I went and there just 3 or 4 metres in front of me was a manta, hovering majestically in the current and gradually turning full circle in front of me before gently flapping her wings and casually swimming away past my partner -- awesome. But in the next 40 minutes or so of that dive and the next dive that was all we really saw that made us think "wow". Yes we saw a few white tips hunting (nice pic below), a few turtles, a few areas of beautiful coral and thick shoals of small colourful fish but otherwise … we'd expected more, and if it was really the best diving in Fiji - it didn't strike us as anything amazing – maybe just unlucky, maybe not. :plain:

Back at resort, a bit deflated with the still poor weather and mediocre diving, we decided to cut short our stay on Naigani, goggled to find a hotel near Suva, and it was back to the mainland next morning. Again if the weather was better and the water blue, we probably would have enjoyed Naigani a whole lot more – as the ingredients are there for a laid back holiday and I'd love to have seen what the lagoon held, but it wasn't to be. After 4 nights we headed back to mainland - destination "Uprising hotel" on the Pacific Bay Coast.

Uprising Beach Resort, West of Suva - a five star, perfect villa, perfect restaurant, on the beach - beautiful place - but it poured with rain – torrential - so beer o'clock lasted a long time, but not to be beaten, we found Aquatrek number, and managed to get booked for next morning to join them on their Beqa lagoon shark dives.

Beqa Lagoon / Aquatrek
Picked up on time at the hotel by Aquatrek, paid, got our gear on and off we set to their own Beqa lagoon dive site, the bistro. Given a good rundown before entering water that we would see sharks, that we should keep low, keep our hands in, don't hold cameras out in front of as a shark might think it was food, and thinking yeh, yeh, yeh - in we went and down we went, with Remoras everywhere, and along to a small dead coral wall to rest behind.

Releasing food into the water (from a bin), a wild flurry of small fish – and along with them giant Groupers, a dozen or more Nurse sharks, Silver tips, White tips, Grey reef sharks, a huge Bull shark or was it two, and though I wasn't too keen before to see a 'feeding shark' show as I'd imagined it would be a bit like a circus, we were in 20 + metres of water, we were way offshore in a lagoon and no one was in control of the sharks, they were free and not like a circus - these sharks were all wild, and having a bull shark swim within a hands reach and to see so many sharks in one place at one time, I have to say was totally awesome.

We made the second dive there soon after, and the time seeing the sharks dart around seemed to fly past - with bottom times to avoid deco’s controlled to the minute by guide. Not sure I would fancy the Aquatrek guide job of holding up fish heads by hand and looking 360 degrees to see where a shark would rush in from to take it from his hand, but all carried out nicely, all hands remaining with their owners - and quite honestly it made up for the diving we had seen elsewhere in our Fiji trip. If going to Fiji again, I wouldn't hesitate to pre book ourselves on the shark dives again, the previous day they had a Tiger shark turn up to eat - so maybe next time we go we'll be lucky enough to see a Tiger. The Aquatrek guides, and shark diving event - 10/10 glad we didn't miss it - and just wish there weren't so many small fish darting around so we could have got a few better pictures.

And back at the surface - torrential rain came down, and pretty much stayed with us for the rest of the day - so the Uprising Beach Resort bar made a profit as we relived sharks !

Great to see that the Fijian’s have recognised that sharks = tourists = money = numerous signs around at fishing jetties etc that catching and landing sharks is not permitted. If you want to see several shark species on one dive – Fiji is the location.

Suva
Last day headed to Suva and stayed overnight, got told by a local within a minute of walking down the main street to hold tight to my camera as it would likely get ripped off my shoulder - but wandered around taking in the sights, with seemingly a huge difference between people with and without money - costs in the shopping malls high, yet steps away locals selling flowers/fish/veg in the markets for cents. Must admit we didn't feel at ease in Suva city, but end of the day, ate and slept well before our dawn departure back from domestic airport, to Nadi and on the big metal bird back to Brisbane.

Would we go again ?
Naigani resort, with hot sunny weather and a blue lagoon would have been idyllic (if keeping out of the villa bathroom) and the prices - well transfers/room/food/per booked dive costs were very good - but our costs of drinks and extra dive boat trips pushing up the costs, with the 'extra's' pretty much equaling the cost of one of our four night ‘all in’ packages. Quality of diving around Naigani, well with rotten visibility and rotten weather we weren't impressed, and Wakaya - a long way to go to see a solitary manta, couple of white tips and turtles, and if that really is the best in Fiji, disappointing. (Note - On last trip to Lady Elliot Island in Australia, on last 15 minutes of a dive we saw 2 mantas, 5 species of sharks, 3 species of turtle and 2 Giant groupers – so maybe we have been spoiled ?).

The shark dives over in Pacific Harbour made up for it, so with guaranteed hot weather and blue skies, yes we would give a Fiji holiday another try - even if just for those shark dives, but for us overall we came away thinking 'been there, done that' - and in fact three days after return booked ahead our next dive holiday for December 2013 - back to Philippines !

Enjoy the pics - I love the one of the two white tips, chuffed with that perfect pose, at Wakaya.

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Can't say the coral wasn't beautiful atop Wakaya wall
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Down into the "Bistro" in Beqa lagoon ...
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No zoom -
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Giant groupers I'd say approaching 2 m length
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Ever tried to get a picture through the mass of fish ...
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A Bull comes in to feed
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Now, without so many small fish I might have got a decent picture or two :)
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Wow...That shark feeding looks like a trip. Did you feel unsafe at all?
 
Wantonmien:


"I read on Facebook a couple of days back (Jan 2014) that the resort has new management and are sprucing the place up ? "


What you read on FB was accurate. My wife and I assumed control as on site resort managers of Naigani on January 3rd, 2014. We are from the USA and have vacationed at Naigani in the past. We knew/know the problems with the resort, both from first hand experience and from listening to fellow guests. When we agreed to manage the resort we came in with our eyes wide open. We do not and will not deny the problems of the past. But we WILL see those problems rectified.


The resort is being "spruced up" from one end to the other. The villas are being brought up to date in terms of maintenance, and there is a detailed plan in place to give new life to the resort.


Much of what has already been done are things that one would not notice if they had not been to Naigani before. Things that you dont notice if they are done right, but sure has heck see if they are done wrong or not done at all. This process is ongoing and, as I mentioned above, a clear plan is in place that both the management team and the board of directors have pledged to see through to the end.


Arrival and Transfers


When my wife, Karen, and I first visited Naigani in 2011, we waited at the jetty for over 4 hours. We can totally relate to your frustration over that issue. I do not believe that our transfer boat has been late picking up guests by more than five minutes since we became managers, and we can assure you that it will take a confluence of major problems for our transfer boat to be late by any significant period of time in the future. This simply will not be an issue as we go forward.


The fiber boat (The Bulou La) that picked you up should not have been used for the transfer of guests to and from the Jetty. I has not, and will not, be used for that purpose under our watch. The resort has been handicapped by a lack of suitable boats for some time. However, this issue is being resolved and two additional boats will be in service on the resort within the next week.


Resort Food


We have generally had very favorable comments on the food here at Naigani in the past. This will only improve on our watch. A qualified head chef is to be added to the staff from off Island in the near future.


As for the cost of alcohol, that is something that we will be taking a close look at, to insure that those costs are in line with the other resorts here in Fiji. We have not looked at that as yet as there have been more pressing issues to deal with.


Resort


"Villa itself was roomy, had seen better days but could have been an awful lot worse, shower room in the villa though - yeuch, screaming out for a good clean, disinfectant and bleach - ok, ok we were on a little island, tired and a bit annoyed with the journey - but the bathroom, no excuses, simply put it was disgusting."


Agreed. That is exactly the conditions my wife and I experienced here at Naigani in the past. That is not the case at Naigani now, and that will not be the case as long as we are the Managers here.


The tap water does come from a pond up on the mountain. It is filtered before reaching the villas, but to be safe, we recommend not drinking it. I have brushed my teeth with it in the past, and we have washed dishes with it in our room in the past, with no ill effects at all. But to err on the side of caution we provide a filtering unit on the counters in the villas that filter rain water for drinking. The Villas also have small refrigerators, and so it is very possible to keep bottled water cold in the villas for drinking if a guest wishes to do so.


"Meanwhile outside, palm trees swinging, coconuts dropping, hammocks on the beach, nice pool, a pool side bar - all the right ingredients"


I completely agree :)


"While there we also made the customary tour of the Fijian village across the island and it was worth it, local customs, local food, local Kava (a mild natural narcotic), local dancing and a snapshot of how customs are still remembered."


Again, I completely agree :) :) I would also add that this village tour is completely in the hands of the local village. The resort does not choreograph it, or profit from it in any way.



Diving from Naigani


I am a diver myself and the quality of the diving from Naigani is one of the major reasons I was willing to take on my current position. I am very sorry that the weather prevented you from having the kind of dive experience that we generally provide. Unfortunately, we can not control the weather :( My experience, and that of many of the guests I have dove with here at Naigani, as well as friends that are expats living here in Fiji, has been that Naigani offers some of the best diving in Fji, if not anywhere. But if conditions are not right, not many dive sites can shine. Fortunately for us the conditions here at Naigani are most often superb...unfortunately for you that was not the case during your visit.


Wakaya is one of the best sites in Fiji. The liveaboards dive it routinely for that reason. I have dove Wakaya several times and, to be honest, my first time doing so left me with much the same impression as you came away from it with. However, subsequent dives there were phenomenal!!


I can also tell you that a diver from the Ukraine was here my last time to Naigani as a tourist. The weather made conditions less than stellar and he checked out after two days of a seven day registration, saying that the whole area was over rated. Two days after he left, the sun came out and the diving was spectacular! I understand the viewpoint of the guest that checked out early, but I sure wish he had been around to see what happened when the sun came out!!


Beqa Lagoon / Aquatrek


The Aquatrek shark dives are not to be missed if one visits Fiji. In view of that fact, we now have a working agreement with Aquatrek and are able to help our guests with making the arrangements to experience the shark dives. An AWESOME experience!!


Wantonmien, I am very sorry that your experience here at Naigani was not what it could have been. I can do nothing about the weather but most, if not all, of the other factors that dampened (pun intended) your Naigani experience have been, or are in the process of being, addressed. Since Oz is just a short hop away, if you would like to send me a PM here, or email me at naiganiusa@gmail.com, I would be happy to make you an offer you can't refuse to come back and see the difference between then and now (weather permitting of course LOL).


Michael B. Caro
Resort Manager
Naigani Island Resort, Fiji

PS.
CHEDDERCHICK....Not sure about anyone else, but I have done the shark dive here in Fiji at least a dozen times and never felt unsafe even once.
 
cbm32, I just saw on Facebook that the management changes continue and guess that means you are now in total control there ?

Might well take you up on a return trip there in the future, as of course if we'd have had a little more blue sky and flat water it would have painted a totally different picture.

--


Chedderchick, no fears with the sharks, awesome to see and if you make the trip it is definitely worth it.

Cheers
 
Very nice trip report! Loved the shark pictures. Weather is always a factor in diving but from the pictures it seems you still had some A-class diving? No?

Anyway ... since you have been to Philippines, if cost was not a factor which destination do you prefer? Fiji or Philippines?
 
Very nice trip report! Loved the shark pictures. Weather is always a factor in diving but from the pictures it seems you still had some A-class diving? No?

Anyway ... since you have been to Philippines, if cost was not a factor which destination do you prefer? Fiji or Philippines?

Captain Sinbad - haven't logged on here for a while and just saw your post - given choice, we prefer Philippines hands down over Fiji - the shark dives in Fiji were awesome, and we would go back just for them, but Philippines, we like it there. laid back, great varied diving and just somewhere we feel comfortable with.
 
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