Need Advice for enhancing digital photos

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Rule62

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Ketchikan, AK
Just got back from Cozumel and took a bunch of photos with my Sea&Sea 750G. There are a few where I was too far away (Eagle rays, turtle and baracudas) that are in focus but the subject is hard to see. I've got Microsoft Picture It software and would like advice on how to enhance the image. Any suggestions?
 
here is my advice McNugget: Download Picasa (free from Google). Easiest functions ever. Even I love it. Play with "I am feeling lucky" button. Very fast and easy to use. this function adjusts the fill light and the contrast in one pop which is instant gratification if thats what you are into.

Sharpen is a good button too, just once though or your image looks flat.
 
One of the best affordable programs is Adobe Elements 3. Runs about $99 but you can usually find rebates with it. It'll do everything you'll need to enhance your photos.
 
I second Dee. Elements 4 has been released and sells for about $80.00 at my local Costco. It has some nice upgrades, all the features the casual user will ever need, and has a plug in for the raw format of current cameras if you shoot in raw. Plus, if you get addicted to Photoshop, the skills you learn in Elements are transferable to full version. I started with PictureIt! several years ago. It is a good program but I felt like I was starting from scratch when I switched to Photoshop.


---Bob
 
PS Tex. Welcome to the board. If you post some of your shots in your gallery on Scubaboard and request some help fixing em up, I think you will find some friendly members willing to give you a hand.
 
Thanks for all the feedback. Here are a couple of shots of some monster spotted eagle rays. If anyone would like to take a crack at bringing out the ray, I'd really appreciate it!
 
Hi Tex:

One of my favorite shows on TV is the CSI series. I get a big laugh every time they have some low resolution image from a security camera that is horribly out of focus. Just load the magic CSI software, push a button, and “zing” you can read that license plate number from three blocks away! Pure fiction. It is impossible to reproduce more than the camera recorded.

A promise is a promise. I pulled a ray image into Photoshop and did what I could with it. The result is posted below. For some reason the blue channel in your image had no detail. I do not know if this is your camera or a result of any glitches in upload to your computer or the board. I know this is technobable, so I am going to PM you my email address and you can send me another sample. I did some major surgery in full version Photoshop. A little more surgery could remove the bubbles and backscatter. I do not think these images would respond to any “one click fix” in any image enhancement software.

There are some great UW photographers on the Board who I hope will pitch in. You will also find a lot of useful threads on getting started in UW photography. I do not know much about your rig except what I was able to pick up from the B&H photo website.

First rule of UW pics, which it looks like you have learned, get close. When you think you are close, get closer. According to your camera specs, the inside (minimum) focal distance on your camera is 20" (about 2') in “normal” mode and 4" in macro. Your focal length for the built in lens is 35mm to 105mm. If you try to shoot even a big animal from a distance using any zoom features on the camera, you will not get good results. When you took the shot the ray probably looked pretty big and fairly close, but your camera saw a much smaller image. I personally know how tough it is to get close to eagle rays because they can be skitzy. If you are lucky, they swim close to you but the minute you swim at them they flee. So I am not being critical. Getting close is a goal, not always the result you can get.

Based on the specs, your camera looks like a good entry level rig for the $500 or so you spent on it. You will find a lot of threads about problems with the on board flash as these tend to produce a lot of backscatter as seen in your images. When you can afford to add a strobe, do so.

Your camera also has a wide angle adapter available for it. If you shoot a lot of big fish or take lots of diver shots, consider the WA adapter. It lets you get closer to your subject and still frame the entire subject. As your budget allows and experience grows, this is an extra you may consider.

Bubbles are the bane of UW photography if they come from you or a diver that is too close to you. You will learn to hold your breath as you take the shot and you will also learn to watch the bubbles of divers whose pictures you are taking.

Keep on shooting. Once you get familiar with your rig and some techniques, you will find UW photography very addictive. (Many of us need to watch our pocketbooks).

Post lots of questions on the Board. You will get a lot of good advice here.

Best.

—Bob


TexRay.jpg
 
Hi Tex
I also tried to do somthing in Photoshop but Bob was right and the blues were burned out in the blue histogram. In other words you can play with this a little but the cardinal sin in UW photog is burning an image because there is nothing left to recover. I've seen one Manta ray and my picture resembles yours. Heed Bob's advice and get close or don't get your hopes up.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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