External Strobe...Now What?

[Gussy]

I just got my Ikelite DS-50 to pair with my Canon PowerShot S1 IS. I know that I have to shoot in manual but where do I start on setting the flash output? This is how I'm visualizing the process...so tell me if I'm wrong.

Meter with camera to determine expose w/ out the flash and set the f-stop and shutter. Turn on the flash and set the output...then start shooting. One of the problem that I realize is that it is very hard to tell via the small LCD if you've over exposed or not.

Any tips?

 

[alcina]

If you have a histogram, use it!

If you don't, look for very bright areas on your lcd...it will give you a good starting place. If in doubt, take one with less exposure.

Shoot RAW if you have it.

Remember you can vary your strobe power by moving the strobe as well as changing the output power. Sometimes this works a treat as you can control the angle of the light, too.

Practice practice practice.

 

[Gussy]

Sorry no raw, no histogram. Where do I start with the flash? It's not that I could take 3 shots, unload, and check exposure.

 

[alcina]

I'm confused, you do have an lcd that you can see, right?

Take a shot with your best guess...I'd start somewhere in the middle and adjust from there for close stuff...look at the shot in the lcd, adjust as necessary, take another, repeat. This will help you "get your eye in" and the settings will come more quickly to you later.

It's digital - shoot, review, adjust, shoot, review, adjust, repeat as necessary!

"Where to start" is a tough one as it will depend on your water conditions, distance to your subject, your ISO/aperture/shutter settings, your lens, your desired outcome...there are "formulas" around the traps and maybe someone who uses them will jump in here. I just go by feel and experience mostly...

 

[Gussy]

Yes, there is an LCD. Before I purchased the strobe I used the internal flash and LCD, but found out later that what looks good in the LCD can look really bad when I look at it in the computer.

 

[f3nikon]

Yes, there is an LCD. Before I purchased the strobe I used the internal flash and LCD, but found out later that what looks good in the LCD can look really bad when I look at it in the computer.

The answer is to Bracket, Bracket and Bracket some more. Set your camera on aperture priority meaning that your shutter speed will automatically adjust for the background lighting, what you will be responsible for is adjusting the aperture which in turn will control the amount of strobe light coming into your camera.

Start with an aperture opening of lets say f5.6 and you look at the LCD and find the image kind of dim, take another shot at f 4.0, if this looks better take another at f 4.0 ½ if you are not sure keep bracketing! It’s not like you will be wasting FILM!

If the image from you first shot is grossly OVER exposed at f5.6 power down your strobe or add some diffusers to cut down on the light. UNDER exposure means that you maybe too far from your subject.

If you have any doubt in your mind about the exposure keep taking pictures using the entire aperture range if you have to. Practice and repeat this routine over and over again and you will begin to learn and zero in on the correct or almost correct aperture settings for a given distance, by then you will most likely be bracketing only with three different settings. But on rare subjects I would be bracketing up to 15 or more shots!

And I am just telling you about bracketing for the correct exposure. Bracketing also applies to Focusing and Composition. Like which part of the subject do you what in focus or variations in angles on different compositions.

Practice and practice all this on land before you get wet, like I said before its not like you will be wasting film.

Shot upwards if you can and close...real close.

PS. Set the ISO to the lowest setting possible this is the only TRUE ISO of any digital camera. Changing the ISO setting is the biggest LIE I have ever heard in Digital Photography, the only way one can change the ISO is to change the CCD that has pixels that are rated for a certain ISO. What the manufacturers are doing is PUSHING the sensor by Amplification and getting noise.

 

[alcina]

Also check your monitor calibration and your lcd settings. In my Canon A series I always make sure what I see in the lcd is a little dark - then I know it's exposed properly. I could adjust the lcd brightness, but I know it now and this works.

 

[f3nikon]

Also check your monitor calibration and your lcd settings. In my Canon A series I always make sure what I see in the lcd is a little dark - then I know it's exposed properly. I could adjust the lcd brightness, but I know it now and this works.

Very good point. Calibrate your LCD. Also add a shade or hood around the LCD to help keep the sunlight out.

 

[havnmonkey]

I think most photo editing software will also have a histogram option so you could check it out on the comp and adjust before you print; only to correct those slightly under/over exposed.

Also practice aiming the strobe to, I have the DS50 and it's angle of coverage is not wonderful so you'll have a more of a hot spot if it is pointed directly at your subject.

"master guide for underwater photography" great 100 pg, color book that is very easy to read and is a great guide on techniques, Amazon.com