Totally Overwhelmed!

[dogface79]

Ok so I just purchased a Canon S95 w/ recsea housing YS-01 strobe, Sola 800 focusing light, Dyron 16mm wide angle lense. Now that we got all that out of the way. I have really no clue how to use it but heres my best attempt. I want to learn to shoot in manual mode. So I get in the water, spot meter the light by pointing the camera 30-40 degrees off the sun??? Is that correct? Once that is set should I be using this is a general guideline? My other question is...When the camera is properly metered and the little arrow lines up with the other line, does this take into consideration of the strobe flash? or should I set up the camera to underexpose because it doesnt take the strobe into consideration? Sorry for all the non-technical jibberish. Any help would be appreciated. I have pool time scheduled for Sunday...What should I practice besides the obvoius of learn how to use the camera?

 

[herbdb]

Here is some advise, I cut out of another thread and saved. I don't recall the thread, so apologies to the person providing the settings, I can't give you proper credit.

for macro, our starting setting is iso100, M mode F8, 1/160, macro on, force flash at 1/64 or 1/16 with YS-01 in M mode, for YS-01 select the second M setting (before TTL), strobe power depend on the distance, you can practice in the pool and refine later, make a note as necessary, say for 15cm, 30cm and 60 cm.

for WA, starting iso200, M mode, F5.6, 1/90 (adjust 1-2 up or down as necessary once you in the water to get your prefered blue bg, macro off; force flash at 1/64 or 1/16; use strobe to control your fg, same as above, adjust power according to distance, but usualy I put at 75% as starting point. Sometime hv to crank to IS0400, but not more.


Hope this gives you a starting point.

 

[herbdb]

Take some test objects in the pool to practice on and a slate to record what works for you.

 

[dogface79]

Thanks for the advice...Could you please explain forced flash at 1/64, 1/16.. I thought FF was either on or off?

 

[herbdb]

That was specifically for the Olympus XZ-1 which has variable flash settings. This allows you to use just enough to trigger the external strobe, saving the camera battery. I don't know if other cameras have a similar feature.

 

[gstrek]

I have an Olympus E-PL1 with the same strobe (YS-01). Based on what I have read on ScubaBoard and other places, this is how I have my camera set:

- Camera in Manual Mode, ISO 200, F8 and 1/125 (1/160 if you like a darker blue background), fill-in flash (forces flash)
- Strobe is on TTL
- Histogram on in review.

This gets a decent exposure but I like to 'chimp' the shot (check LCD and histogram) and adjust as needed (adjust strobe, more or less f stop). I leave the shutter as it is when I shoot, review and adjust. Shutter controls the ambient background light. F-Stop and flash control the main subject (within a a few feet of the camera).

This really helped me get started shooting manual mode while getting some decently exposed images and allowed me to concentrate more on composition (the harder part of photography).

 

[herbdb]

Thanks, I'll add this to my bag of tricks. I am heading to Bonaire in two weeks and expect to spend some time lying in the sand experimenting before venturing onto the reef.

 

[NautilusCairns]

I too have a Canon S95 in a Recsea housing but with different strobes and lens, however the main thing I have learnt is to get in the water and start taking photos and be pretty critical of your results. Settings come with practice and be prepared to have a fair number of dissapointing photos, but when you do have some good ones work out what you did to achieve them. One thing with a Canon on manual is that you have to have the stobe in manual as well as TTL doesn't work except in Av and Tv

 

[alcina]

congrats on the new camera!!

As well as experimenting with your settings & some "models" in the pool, concentrate on your diving skills. You're going to want to be be able to hover completely still in any orientation, move side to side & back and forth with very minimal movement. Check on your air often - some divers will use up to 30% more air when they are taking photos, so it's good to have a bit of an idea how your body works. Watch your fins - so common to see great control everywhere else and then this flailing fin out the back

Diving skills are, imho, the number one way to better photos.


Have a great time and shoot way more than you think you should

 

[ozziworld]

There are so many settings to deal with Shutter speed, F stop, ISO and Strobe power.

Trying to deal with them all is what is overwhelming.

Take Herbd's settings as a starting point and try to get the image you like without touching anything but the strobe power. That way you are focused on and only paying attention to what the strobe power knob positions are. Treat the strobe power knob like a 'darken/lighten' control no need to remember numbers. just the position so you eventually get a feel for a good starting point. I like to think of things in terms of 12 oclock.

When you get the feel for what the strobe knob does and a good starting position for that on your particular strobe. You should shift your focus to familiarize yourself with the Aperture Settings. Again do not touch anything during this session except the aperture. Again this is like a 'darken/lighten' knob. All things being equal - it lightens/darkens the background where the strobe does not reach. This is the blue to black back ground.

You can then move on to ISO and Shutter speed in the same manner, one at a time.

The point is to isolate and learn one of these settings only during a learning session so the effects are fully appreciated.

Also, try to shoot the same type photo/subject during a learning session as this also lessens the variables your mind is having to deal with while learning.