New to DSLR - Close Focusing Issues w/ 40mm Nikon on D5000?

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Shinythings

Contributor
Messages
147
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Location
Vancouver Island
# of dives
500 - 999
Out of the water the camera focuses on macro stuff within an inch of the lens... underwater it is a totally different picture. I have to be at least 6-8 inch away at minimum for it to focus. This is making for some very difficult macro shots. I bought this specific lens for it's ability in a wide range of photography and its close focusing but it will not do it underwater.

I am using autofocus, ikelite macro port, ikelite housing. My one thought was that the macro port was effecting the focus distance but I switched to the dome port I use for WA and it had the same issues.

Are there some settings I can play with or anything? I'd like to make it work without changing lens or ports.

Also, what are most people using to "shoot everything" with one lens? I know most people will tell you to get a WA and a Macro, but I like having a "hybrid" lens that can handle a little bit of both so I never miss out on getting pics of anything (which is why I went with the 40mm, f/2.8G).

I should add I am using two sola focus lights so I don't see light being an issue in focusing.
 
There really is not a do everything lens for a crop sensor SLR.

I found the the even the Nikon 60 mm macro does not allow true macro in a functional sense. For true macro, you have to get so close to the subject that you either, scare the subject, you smash into it, or you are so close as to block your strobes.

Your lens should focus fine, but you might be shading out the subject so much as to prevent functional focusing.

For a functional true macro most people use a 105 macro which gives more working space.
 
Extension toob or diopter.

Did you try manual focus? Is the change in angle of the light coming into the lens confusing the phase shifting focusing mechanism?
 
I don't know about Nikon, but olympus has what you call "shoot everything" lens, ie. the 12-50mm (equal to 24 - 100mm). It has macro switch to set the lens at 43mm (equal 86mm) macro. Almost 1 : 1 magnification.
Some people love the expensive and complicated port of nauticam housing for 12-50mm which over flexibility to control focal lenght and macro mode. It is flat port, not a best port for 12 mm (24mm equal),
Olympus camera such as EM-5 and EM-1 has the functionality to set to WA (12mm) and 50mm with single Fn button, without zoom gear. Unfortunately, the working distance at 50mm is not as close as at macro mode. You'll need a diopter to shorten the working distance. At 50mm + Inon UCL 165 wet lens, not very difficult to shhot a pigmy seahorse.
 
I am confused. According to Nikon the minimum focus distance is 6.4 inches from the focal plane. The lens is 2.5 inches long. That means that minimum focus should be about 3.5 inches from the front of the lens. With any flat port that distance should not change appreciably.
Bill
 
The issue could be that the macro port is too long. How close to the front of the port does the lens sit? What flat port are you using? A dome isn't going to help. That lens isn't particularly powerful, the 60 is better. but both work better with a +5 diopter. On that lens with an Ikelite port, I'd just get a good quality one from the camera store that screws on the front on the lens. And think about getting a strobe, one issue you may be having is camera shake with the solas. Available light is going to be soft and you'll use longer shutter speeds.
 
I am using strobes but it is more so getting it to focus that is the issue, not so much having the pictures turn out bad. A friend suggested switching to single point focus so I am hoping this will help.

I used the flat port and extension that ikelite suggested so I don't imagine distance to the flat port being a possible issue.
 
My advice is to manual focus, however several years ago I bought the Tokina 35mm macro lens that does 1:1 perfectly out of the housing. Unfortunately I have not found a port that will allow me to do that for my Sea&Sea housings and I use it with my 60mm port (which also fits nice with the 85mm micro lens BTW).

With this lens macro shots need to be on critters that don't move away quickly such as nudibranchs, and strobe angle is very important as you will almost be touching the subject.
 
I think the 40mm is about as versatile as you are going to get for SLR, but since it is not as long as say a 60 mm or a 105mm, it won't be that great for the very small stuff, but I would say it would be good for mid-size critters such as small to medium-sized fish or very large nudibranchs. I would say critters in the 4" to 12" range (say around 8-30 cm) would be about perfect for that lens, and even bigger stuff would likely work well too.

For even more versatility, get a flip-diopter lens that you can use for smaller critters, say in the 2-6 cm range. The diopter will also cut down your minimum focusing distance.

I am not sure why you are having trouble focusing close underwater with that lens. It should be the same as on land. Are you shooting manual? What settings?

For a cheap and easy solution, you can try screwing on a dry diopter, say a +2 or so, to the end of your lens (in place of a UV filter). You won't be able to focus to infinity, but that is no problem underwater, but it should make it easier for your lens to focus up close.
 
For a cheap and easy solution, you can try screwing on a dry diopter, say a +2 or so, to the end of your lens (in place of a UV filter). You won't be able to focus to infinity, but that is no problem underwater, but it should make it easier for your lens to focus up close.

I take any UV or Protector filters off the lenses when used in a housing because it is one more layer of glass that may detract from image quality. What do others think?
 

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