Affordable underwater camera housing and camera?

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Brian42

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Can anyone recommend a decent underwater housing and camera that are available for <=$1,000 or better yet ~$500? I'm seriously into above water photography and I have tons of gear including a 5D MKII, lights, lenses, etc. etc. but I'm shocked and appalled at the cost of a plastic box to take it under water. Seems like the cheapest one is about $1500 and then many people in the know are telling me that I won't get results I'm happy with if I don't invest hundreds if not thousands more in lights. I'm not interested in doing that at this time so I guess a smalller compact camera and housing is the way to go. Can anyone recommend one? I have a Nikon AW100 but it's only good to 10 m and I've quickly figured out that is completely and utterly useless for diving.

Any advice appreciated. Basically I'm interested in the best results I can get for <=$1000 total cost. I'm a very advanced photographer so there is no need for it to be yielding great results with just point and click I operation. I understand white balance, depth of field, the consequences of shutter speed and aperture, the need for filters, etc. etc. etc. So if there is something that has higher quality in exchange for being not idiot friendly I'm definitely interested.

The gopro with back scatter housing advertised all over this site looks intriguing and affordable but I want to make decent stills as much or more than just video so I don't think I want to buy that now either.

Thanks.
 
For less than $1000 I would suggest a canon G series... 11, 12, or G1. They all feature full manual controls and are great cameras for underwater photography. I have never used one, but I have been on dive trips and witnessed the excellent results achieved by others. You can buy a simple housing for one for around $230. With the simple housing you will be limited to mostly close ups/macro shots; you will not have the option to add strobes or a wide angle dome port.

I started out with a simple point and shoot and was mostly happy with the results. Then I bought my first SLR in 2010. After working with full manual controls and learning the fundamentals of photography I couldn't stand using a simple point and shoot with no manual controls. I decided to take my SLR underwater, and I am surprised with the results I get as just an amateur.

IMHO lights/strobes are the most important factor in underwater photography. There are more advanced housing options for the Canon G series cameras that will allow you to add strobes or wide angle dome ports. If you don't want to buy strobes, you can still get great photos with a Canon G series in a simple housing, but like I mentioned before only close ups and macro. You can buy a G series camera and housing for less than $1000.
 
For a $1000 solution, the Canon S100, Ikelite housing, and Canon A35 strobe is a great choice. I have some great shots with my first rig, a Canon Elph 100 ($100), the Canon Housing, and an Intova rechargable LED torch (get a cheap ball-flex arm and tray). If you have the light already, you can get by for just over $300 for the camera and housing. See the pics below, the frogfish shots were at 55 feet off Curacao and the Manta is at Buddys on Bonaire. The manta is really a pretty long shot for the torch. The Queen Angel and Hairy Sea Slug are in Coz, about 60 feet.
Ed
 

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I bought the S100 and the WP-DC43 Canon housing. Worked like a charm on our recent trip, because conditions were so good on the shallow dives I've got good pictures even without a strobe.

Naturally a strobe will make the world of difference but for modest beginnings on a relatively low budget I can definitely recommend this camera + housing combo.
 
I am familiar with the Canon G series. I understand that Canon developed the series for photo journalists to use when they could not use a DSLR. I shoot a Nikon DSLR. I found the transition to the G11 to be very easy and natural. It shoots nice photos too. I makes a great compact topside camera also.

There are a number of rules to underwater photography. I mention the G11 but I think what I says would apply to the G series and S series in general.

1) Strobes are great. The reason for this is red light only penetrates 15'. Other colors drop out of the column as you go deeper orange, yellow, green and finally blue. At about 70', it is a blue green world. I have taken photos of fish against what looked like a brown or grey background only to look at the photo later (taken with a strobe) to discover that the background was a garish orange from encrusting sponge. If you want color, you got to have a strobe.

2) The closer the better. Water always has stuff in it. The clutter will rob photos of their sharpness. The G11 has a 35 mm equivilent widest lens (corrected for water distortion). That is not enough for photos of large fish and divers. If you can get a housing with a wide angle dome attachment, that is very much better.

3) The G11 has a macro setting. Unfortunately, it only works on the wide setting which sort of defeats the purpose. So you will need a "wet lens" for macro work. It is good to check and see if you housing will accept one.

4) Always shoot in RAW format. RAW format allows you to correct the white balance in post processing. White balance changes constantly underwater so it is hard to get right even using white cards. Besides, it is kind of hard to get the fish to sit still while you take the shot with a white card and then one without one. Fish are impatient.

Now, with the changes in digital cameras going as fast as they do, you probably will want to do more research. You can check the web sites of Backscatter and Reef Photo (both USA retail stores). They have informative web sites and have recommended systems. Looking at the sites will give you an idea of the what are regarded as the best current options.
 
Thanks guys. Really great info here. EXACTLY what I needed.

Curious question though... why do you NEED a strobe and can you not correct using white balance and/or filters? I mean doesn't normal above water color temperature differences mean reds are stronger or blues are stronger, etc.

---------- Post Merged at 10:32 AM ---------- Previous Post was at 09:19 AM ----------

Thanks guys. Really great info here. EXACTLY what I needed.

Curious question though... why do you NEED a strobe and can you not correct using white balance and/or filters? I mean doesn't normal above water color temperature differences mean reds are stronger or blues are stronger, etc.
 
Recently I started to shoot photos with manual white balance. The results sometimes can be satisfying (this is one of the photos, this is another), but if you look at the photos you can see the eye of the fish is "dead" because it lacks the reflection of the strobe- at least in my opinion. But learning to work with manual white balance is very-very useful for an underwater photographer I think.
 
Brian,

You can only correct white balance if there is some of all the visible spectrum available for the correction. For example, if you are photographing under incandescent light, which has a distinct yellow cast, you can correct the white balance.

However, if you are at 30' underwater, there will be no red light so no matter what you do in white balance, it just will not work. You can not tell a black object from a red one. The only way to tell is if that object reflects red light, making it red, instead of absorbing it, making it black.

That is why you need to bring your own light source underwater to restore the colors. Now white balance and filters can work pretty well if you are diving shallow. But at depths of 80', you really need strobes.
 
I guess I am a little confused though by the initial premise. Brian is a topside photographer that shoots full frame Canon with lights/lenses/studio gear. Why would he be happy shooting an S100. As good as it is it isn't anywhere near a DSLR let alone a full frame one. My take is that if Brian wants to shoot essentially snapshots from a dive trip then shooting with no strobes and an S100 in a Canon housing will be OK but they will not be at all comparable to his topside pics. I think he should bite the bullet and get a nice used Ikelite housing for the 5D and a single strobe. A bit more $ (not much) than a whole new system but the pics will be worth it assuming he has the right lenses already.
Bill
 

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