SeaLife SL 960 question

[LVDiver]

I know I should be going digital, but for my upcomming trip I can't afford a complete overhaul, so i will be adding a SeaLife 960 to my Reef Master camera.
Here are my questions for anyone with an opinion:
-Do I need the Flash Link and/or the Flash Diffuser?
-Do I need the Buoyancy Control Weight?
-Would you recommend a 3X close up Lens and underwater filter OR the 8X 16X close up lens set.
-Lastly, how often do you use a wide angle lens?

Thanks for any and all opinions.

 

[mike_s]

I had the Reefmaster 35mm, then upgraded it with the same flash, then replaced the whole thing with a digital set later on.

The 35mm Reefmaster is worth about $25-$35 bucks because digital has just taken over. Maybe work $40+ if it has the Pelican hard case. (check ebay).
Based on all this, my suggestion to you is to put the $$$ into a digital set or see if you can buy a "used" SL960 flash. You can justifty the extra digital expense easily with the costs of film and developing alone. (especially if you get double prints) If you go used, Ebay might be your friend. There is a SL960 on ebay "right now" going for $50 bucks with about 1day left in bidding.

The other good thing about the digital instead of the 35mm is that you don't have to worry about changing rolls between dives or having enough "film" left on a roll to take pics of what you want. Since you also tend to shoot a lot of pics that aren't great and otherwise hit the trash bucket, this is a much more cost effective way of doing it instead of buying film and paying for processing. Being able to "instantly view" the pics that night on your laptop will also let you know how they turn out while you are still on your trip. this is great for photo troubleshooting.

The good news is that you can always use the SL960 on a digital reefmaster if you buy it. the only difference is a slight size difference in the flash "guard" that deflects the flash from the camera upwards.


You won't need the Boyancy control weight with the flash.
I bought the flash link last year, but haven't used it yet. Bought it because my flash was not always firing when moved in "odd bends" from the camera.

I've got the 3x lens and it's nice for small stuff. I don't see a need much for the 8x or 16x unless you're going to take pics of "really small stuff"

The wide angle lens (about $79) is really nice if you've got to take a pic of a large object but can't do the human-zoom in lower vis. Remember that your color changes the farther you are away from an object, so "backing up" away from a larger object means that you loose color. The wide angle lens helps you "stay close" to the object and both get better color and also if in lower vis, help keep from causing vis problems based on distance. If you get the wide angle lens, get the "lens docking station" that keeps it from bouncing around (and getting scratched).


hope all that helps.

-Mike

 

[*Floater*]

Here are my questions for anyone with an opinion:
-Do I need the Flash Link and/or the Flash Diffuser?
-Do I need the Buoyancy Control Weight?
-Would you recommend a 3X close up Lens and underwater filter OR the 8X 16X close up lens set.
-Lastly, how often do you use a wide angle lens?

I had the film camera but upgraded to DC310. I don't have the flash link, and don't really need it, but then again I haven't tried it nor have I tried the SL960D and therefore don't know if I'm missing something. I don't like the flash diffuser, but I do need to partially block the external flash with my hand for close-ups. If you still want the diffuser, just pm me and I'll sell you mine for $10 shipped.

I don't use a buoyancy weight, so my system is positive. If prefer it to hang down then get the weight. The wide-angle lens is pretty heavy too, and sinks the camera without the flash.

I do need the 3x lens for regular shots. Just makes the colors much better, and if your shot is not within the range of the 3x then it's usually not worth taking with this camera (quality-wise). All my best shots (with the DC310) are macros with the 8x and 16x lenses though, so if you are into macro then get those.

I haven't made much use of the wide-angle lens, except for video, because in general I prefer macro shots or 3x shots. Anything further away hasn't really worked for me and hence I haven't used the wide-angle for photos that much.

 

[Jcsgt]

Just a note on the buoyancy control weight. I was diving in Miami, a couple years ago, and lost my hold on the camera at 80+ feet (no, it wasn't clipped). Because the camera/flash was slightly buoyant, it rose to the surface and was grabbed by a crew member.

 

[LVDiver]

Thank you all for your advice. Floater, I may PM you about that diffuser if I get the 960.

 

[Bbarnes]

When I used the dc310 I used all of lenses. Most of the time I used the 3x lens. I have had some great scorpion fish pics etc taken with the 8x and 16x lenses. The wide angle is great for getting a whole shark in the picture and getting some color too. The problem with using them with the 'film' camera is that you have no screen to help make sure that the camera is within the correct focal distance. The higher the magnification, the smaller the depth of focus. The diffuser is important for close up shots so that you don't get 'white out' from the flash. In regards to the weight, I would recommend it if you do NOT use the wide angle lens. (The lens gets the camera very close to neutral in saltwater) I hate having a positive camera banging me in the face during a dive. With the digital strobe you have to attach the weight to the bottom of the strobe instead of inside of the head of the strobe like on the older model.

 

[Darnold9999]

I added two three ounce fishing weights inside the strobe head taped to the battery keeper. It is now just slightly positive and with the camera also just slightly positive is perfect. Before the weight I found it a pain to clip the camera to a DRing - it kept riding up into my face - tangling in hoses etc., now it pretty much stays where I put it.