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Underwater PhotographyDiscuss Underwater Photography from taking photos to photo equipment, sell your old gear, see what your favourite camera manufacturers are coming out with or just find something fascinating to view.
Just a quick question - I am experiencing blurred pictures. Is it me, the camera, or both?
I have a Cannon digital elph (model 910?) and the Cannon waterproof case for it. For those unfamiliar with this "setup" it is a point-and-shoot camera with a flash diffuser on the case, but no external flash. I am not interested in buying an expensive setup.
My buoyancy control is good. Typically I photograph from a range of less than four feet. Photography at depth always requires a flash with my setup requires a sequential auto-focus, followed by flash charging, followed by photograph w/flash. The process takes at least a full second, if not longer.
Is the problem likely a slow shutter speed coupled with my hands shaking? Is it likely that I drift between auto-focus and the picture being registered? There is no external flash for a Canon digital elph that would help out, is there?
Do you have an image stabilizing feature on your camera? I have a P&S also and that helps a little. If you crank up your iso, you'll be able to shoot at a higher shutter speed and smaller aperture, which may help. I also hold my breath when shooting, but please don't tell anyone.
do you have manual controls? If so, what shutter speed are you shooting at, if it is to slow it could be leading to the fuzzy photos. Post some here and you might get better more specific responses.
I will take a guess and say all of the above.......
Let me try and explain (at least my understanding)......others may correct my explanation....
P&S camera's in auto use a pre-flash (either infrared or visible light) to set aperture and shutter speed and ISO (low light sensitivity)......
The there is focus, that is where the "macro" function comes in......macro tells the camera to start it's macro focus very close, instead of in the middle where normal focus starts......
In auto, all these variables are in play and the camera has a very very short time (less than 1/2 a second) to look at all the variables, make an assessment and set the camera....
Bottom line is the camera is taking the picture no matter what and if there is not enough time to "fix" the settings....then click.....presto, you get blurry pictures.....
There are many types of anti shake.....so drive up ISO to speed up shutter speed but that adds "noise" to the picture.....some do electronic stabilization on the CCD sensor.....the best do mechanical stabilizing of the lens itself......
Underwater you can guess that a camera in auto mode has even more going on - the pre-flash becomes a real issue as light does not penatrate as far underwater as in air, the camera itself is in a housing so it is harder for the camera to read the pre-flash, the low ambient light drives up ISO and slows shutter speed all of which blur pictures......
So what is one to do......get a strobe and take the camera as far out of full "auto" as possible - such as aperture or shutter priority…...most folks migrate to fully manual control over their camera to get the results they want............
Tips, get as close as you can, set the camera to macro and rest it against a rock……don’t cause any damage……if you are doing wider shots, turn the flash off, shoot only in shallow well lit water, point the camera up and rest it on something firm……
I am not an adavanced UW photographer (I have a P&S setup), though I have a fair amount of SLR experience on land, so my opinion is based on that experience. IMHO, unless you have a DSLR setup, or a P&S that will allow you to spot focus, you have little to no control over the results, in terms of focus. You are instead hoping that, to some extent, you camera will find the subject you are intent on shooting and focus on it. If it's a macro subject on a surface that is uniform in its distance to your lens, you are in pretty good shape. If a number of surfaces at varying distances to your lens enter into the frame, then being able to spot focus on your subject becomes of prime imprtance, lest your camera find some other plane or object instead.
Shooting aperture-preferred and stopped down, you can increase your depth of field, but that is still nothing more than a band-aid, and may or may not work for a given shot, giving you a long and consequently blurry exposure.
If anyone with more experience can discount my theory and help me and the OP, go for it!
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" ... when you finally see what goes on underwater, you realize that you've been missing the whole point of the ocean. Staying on the surface all the time is like going to the circus and staring at the outside of the tent. "
-Dave Barry
Are you shooting in Auto? If so, the camera is causing the shutter to hold the lens open longer trying to allow enough light in to create a suitable photograph. Unfortunately in the process movement is being capatured causing a blur. As, the others have suggested, you may just need to manually set your camera to allow enough light in and a faster shutter speed to eliminate blurring. For wide angle I use 1/125 with f5.6 and an ISO of 100. However, I do use an external strobe. Getting closer to your subjects might help some.
Here are some photos from the breakwater at Ogden Point, Vancouver Island, BC. I have chosen to export "medium" resolution photos form iPhoto - I have never done this before, so I hope the res is appropriate for this site and sufficient for others to comment on.
Photos are (in not particular order):
an unidentified anemone (please help)
Rose Anemone (Urticina piscivora) - literally, "fish-eating anemone"
Red Sea Urchin (Strongylocentrotus franciscanus)
Diamondback Nudibranch (Tritonia festiva)
Postscript: is this perhaps the best I can expect from such a camera?
Tough to know. It is the household camera, although I bought it. Who knows who used it last, or how. I try to opt for "shutter priority" whenever I can to make the photos occur as rapidly as possible to minimize burring from shaking.
Linear Mode
