DIY source for low profile hot shoe cables?

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K

KeithG

Guest
anyone have a good source of low profile hot shoe connectors? i have an upcoming project where i need to craft a hotshoe to bulkhead connection.

standard photo products are generally way too tall to jam in a scuba camera housing. the various housing manufacturers have products in the $100 range.

in the past i have scavenged hot shoe connector and cable from obsolete housings. but i ran out of parts...

worst case i may try a perf board hack...
 
Can't scavenge a base off a dead flash eh?
tried that a few years ago. i picked up a handfull of dead flashes from the repair depo of a local camera shop. I got mixed to poor results. The majority of the flashes were elcheapos and skimped on the hotshoe structure so that trying to salvage something useable was more work than building from scratch.
 
You can get this one
10Bar PA-HS-Bt buy dive - Aditech
for $20 or so, they make a bunch of different versions, or you can easily make one with a bit of circuit board
Bill
That is the inverse of what I need - but a great product if I was going the other way. This is the type of product I am looking for. A generic hot shoe "plug" with a pigtail wire. I can think of 3 flavours:
- totally generic with just ground and X
- nikon
- cannon

Am now considering the DIY route based upon a vero perf board (or some such thing). The critical issue is that for reliable performance spring loaded pins are required. i can not easily do that DIY. one potential solution is to use a flexible perf board that once mounted is stressed to "bend down" to provide reliable contacts.

I have seen a few DIY "hot shoe optical converter" projects on the web. I should look them up and see how they solved the problem.

I had hoped that someone knew details about the original supplier for these parts for housing manufacturers. Sea & Sea, Aquatica, Nauticam all provide this type of item but at a very high cost.

P.S. I looked a little more on the website you provided and found 10Bar PA-HS-PG buy dive - Aditech. This is the thing I want. A little pricey at around $35US but way cheaper than the nauticam equivalent.

Thanks!
 
You can get spring loaded miniature contact pins from digikey or Newark, cheap as dirt I think. The other way to go (other folks have done it this way) is to buy a cheap ($12) hot shoe extension cable, remove the housing around the end you need and cut the other end off.
Amazon.com : NEEWER® White TTL Off-camera Flash Hotshoe Connector Cord for Olympus/Panasonic Version Cameras and Flashes : Camera & Photo
for a version that looks like it comes apart pretty easily.
Bill
Was not aware of spring loaded contacts - I would like to investigate this as they may be useful for my perfboard idea. Do you have a part # or a link?

My fallback idea is based upon a standard hobby perfboard (they ALL seem to be 1.6mm thickness) that I can cut a small hot shoe square out of. But this will be a sloppy fit as my online searches have determined that a hot shoe "foot" needs to be 1.9 mm tall. My idea was to push solid pins through the perf board and protrude on the bottom to make up the slack and even put a little pressure on the contacts. We will see how that goes. Spring loaded may be better, if they fit in the vertical restrictions.

The off shoe cable is a good idea that I looked into but I believe it is a non starter. They are as useful as the dead flash idea. The hotshoe connector is very tall, too tall to fit in my project (some, many, all?) housing for a camera with a builtin (not pop up ) flash. From my first batch of 3 dead flashes I discarded 2 and the survivor foot unit measures 11.9mm vertical. Too tall for real life (see below) but worked fine for my first tests of converting my optical P&S (DX1g) to wired sync.

My current project housing has 6.5mm vertical space above the hotshoe connector surface. More room would require that I cut a groove in the inside of the housing. It is a polycarb housing only 5.33mm thick. I would not be comfortable (but have NO scientific basis for this) for a groove deeper than 2mm. So I still need a less than 8.5mm profile connector. The hotshoe adaptor foot is way too tall.

A scavenged hotshoe connector from a Sea & Sea housing clocks in at around 6.8mm (+- 1mm as it is a little sloppy from front to back). This connector jams into the un-altered housing at the front of the hotshoe. Not sure if this will affect its operation. I will NOT use it unless I groove the housing or grind the connector down.

For my prior project, the scavenged hotshoe connector I am using in my DX1G housing is 6.82mm tall, but has lots of vertical clearance as the housing was designed to accommodate a popup flash. The only issue with this housing was finding adequate internal clearance for the Nikonos style bulkhead connector.

The bottom line is:
- there is lots of room in housing designed for pop up flash. BUT be prepared to not use the popup flash if it uses the same space as the hot shoe....
- builtin or non flash housings are very tight.
 
I think the key to using the hotshoe cable is to disassemble it, per (DIY Underwater Optical Strobe Trigger for NEX-5N | Ratha's Toolbox). The pogo pins we use for our medical devices can be gotten here
Emulation Technology, Inc. - Pogo Pins
also from Newark
Connector Contacts Product List | Connectors | Newark element14 US

Digikey sells them but minimum order is 20,000 pieces, probably more than you need.
Bill
Agreed. My DIY attempt was an abysmal failure.The tolerances where way too fine for my hand tool abilities. Ugly baby.

It would be nice to find out where the housing manufacturers source parts. The Sea & Sea ones I salvaged from old housings are nicely designed and very low profile. I am currently using a Nikon hotshoe on my G16 (ground & X). Works great for manual strobe operation. Downside is the G16 does not support generic strobes in continuous mode. G16 will not operate the X contact in continuous mode (digital ettl protocol only). So i am limited to single shot. The nikon hotshoe also does not have the needed canon ettl digital protocol pins. Better hotshoe required.

I grabbed a youongoo (sp?) extension cable from ebay. It works fine with a remote canon flash (rented 430ex-ii) on my G16 so hopefully I can cut it down to fit in my housing. This may requires a bit of grinding to remove 2 internal braces just above the hotshoe. And some magic circuitry to fool the camera into thinking I have a canon strobe...

Current roadblock is part of the magic circuitry. I found some online references for the canon ettl digital protocol, was able to record the camera / strobe behaviour for interested operations. Fairly simple protocol, all makes sense. Current issue is spoofing the startup protocol for a canon flash so the camera believes...appears to be a combo of analog and digitial signals...
 

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