Housing Maintenance - Help the Neanderthal

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PapaBob

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OK, the Nikonos Neanderthal has to evolve some day, and I have ordered a housed underwater dSLR. Thank you James for the advice, thank you Kevin for pushing me over the edge, and thank you Ike since I am going to use your housing, ports, strobes and sync cords.

My question involves TLC for my new rig. As a Nikonos Neanderthal, I was educated in the Bob Warkenten (Southern Nikonos) school of camera maintenance. Simply, after taking your camera underwater keep it wet (even in salt water) until you can give it a fresh water bath with a strong swish or spray until every atom of brine is removed from the nooks and crannies of the switches and controls. The theory is that once salt water drys the scale is like concrete and can only be removed by disassembly, cleaning, and replacement of those little tiny o-rings that allow the controls to function without admitting corrosive fluid into sensitive electronics. If the scale forms under an o-ring, or helps shred it, then make sure your flood insurance is paid up.

Following this advice was not hard for my little Nikonos IIIs and V. A bulky dSLR housing with twin strobes is a different matter!

So, you gurus, please help this Neanderthal evolve. What is your post dive maintenance routine? How often should you have the housing serviced? Any other advice to an old dog trying to learn a lot of new tricks?

—Bob
 
I have an Oly PT-015 housing with lots of little o-rings and crannies.

Like you said, keep the rig wet - I find a damp towel works well on the dive boats. IMHO, you can use the fresh water rinse tank on a boat for a quick dunk, but don't leave it there! A simple bump against the side can cause leakage!

After the dives, soak everything in fresh water - in Cozumel, I walk into town at the beginning of each trip and buy a large bucket to use as a personal soak tank in the shower. Make sure you push all the buttons and move all the levers before removing from the rinse tank.

Dry thoroughly.

I've only serviced one of the o-rings in the two years and several hundred dives that I've done with my rig. This is the notorious mode dial o-ring that was reported to be a weak spot on this housing - a quick disassembly, relube, and installation diid the trick.

It may be time for me to tear down the housing and replace all the o-rings...hmmmmm.
 
For shore diving, travel or operations that do not offer camera rinse tanks I pack my housing, etc., in a soft sided cooler I picked up Costco. Protects the camera while on small boats and acts as a rinse bucket. Don't assume dive ops will have fresh water so I bring a half gallon bottle for 2 tank dives.
 
Southern Nikonos? Ooo i have heard some good stories about that guy...

Anyhoo, well, i am not really a model of what should be done. I leave the housing sitting on the boat for an hour between dives with a towel on it. Then i put it in the rinse bucket back at the shop after the two dives are complete. I let it air dry.
I have yet to take the o-ring out of the groove, i silicone it every now and again am anal about its cleanliness before i close it up.
One thing with Ike synch cords and housings, always take the cord off at night on liveaboard trips or any long period of time, they have a habit of getting stuck together.
 
My stuff goes into the rinse tank with the strobe arms crossed over the top of the housing. I kind of bob it up and down gently for about 30 seconds and then I'm done.

My hand is always attached while the housing is in the rinse tank.

To be honest I treat them just like a Nik as far as rinsing and stuff goes...remove and lube o-rings daily...strobe cords off at night...annual service of the fixed o-rings. (OK, I'll confess; "annual service" every 16 months or so) Hasn't caused any issues that I can tell.

Oh...a dive in Lake Tahoe every couple of months or so too, for the ultimate fresh water rinse.

All the best, James
 
Stylish tips...

For day (2 or 3-tank) boat dives, I use a cheap plastic storage tub to place the housing and strobes in. It fits under the bench, is easy to carry, actually protects from something being tossed under the bench, and is just the right size for a big housing and a couple of strobes, all assembled. And it fits so nicely under the bench, nobody squawks about space consumption.

The cheaper the better. The Wal-Mart no name brands are great. I don't even use the lid usually. It's convenient enough that I use them even when there's a camera table.

Just toss a slab of 3/4" foam into the bottom as a shock absorber. It'll get wet, but big deal.

All the best, James
 
Oly 5050:
I use the Soft pack container (found the idea here) for my little Oly 5050 which works great. I rinse as best as possible, carry a small squirt Water bottle used for sports?, biking, hiking etc and squirt water over the general area. Lube main rings as needed.
Pack with little hand towels.

Tetra w/strobes:
I finally got one of those white plastic Food Containers/buckets or believe the Major Hardware stores sell them. Fill with water and let it soak. On boat, I'll bring it and use it, clearly marked Camera's ONLY or more to the point, "MY Camera ONLY". It's PITA to lug around, but use a dolly (the one with wheels eh?) to and from boats and fills, so not too back ... getting older, does make my wiser... a-hem, in some cases that is...

Finally at home, I soak in bath tub with gear rinse ritual.. lube main O-rings as needed, and figure about 2+/- years by the time I send housing down for work for the internal ones. Diving apx 6 dives a month or so..

One thing I did learn after a frozen strobe/synch cord. I Have to unscrew everything that is screw able... I mistakenly figured "If it's tight - it's right"... don't break the seal and let it be.. heheh.. but the connector synch to strobe froze/locked up... so now I undo them after each day or several days on trips.. put some grease on them. A costly lesson...

Hope that helps???
 
To all:

Thanks. Great Advice. For years I would put my scuba in an 80qt igloo cooler and secure it with packing straps for travel. It made a great personal "dunk bucket" for the camera after dives. I will try to find something to fit for the new rig. Some very creative ideas.

Years ago I was on a boat that told me to leave the cooler on shore. After all, space on board was at a premium and they had a garbage can size rinse bucket dedicated to cameras (it was so marked). After the first dive the three of us with cameras had gingerly arranged things in the rinse can to avoid our gear banging around on the trip to the next site. The last guy who climbed on board literally lofted his weightbelt into the camera bucket. I thought I was going to witness a murder.

---Bob
 
ScubaBOBuba:
Years ago I was on a boat that told me to leave the cooler on shore. After all, space on board was at a premium and they had a garbage can size rinse bucket dedicated to cameras (it was so marked). After the first dive the three of us with cameras had gingerly arranged things in the rinse can to avoid our gear banging around on the trip to the next site. The last guy who climbed on board literally lofted his weightbelt into the camera bucket. I thought I was going to witness a murder.
---Bob

Where I come from, "he needed killing" is a defense in court.

I wince when I remember the yahoo who dunked his wetsuit between dives in the "CAMERA'S ONLY" rinse tank in Key Largo! Thank god it wasn't his weight belt!
 
Care and feeding can differ depending on the manufacturer. Some say lubricate the O-rings, others say to only keep them clean and dry without any lubrication. But keeping it wet until you can completely rinse it off is the same rule regardless of make and model.

Welcome to the digital (dark) side..... :evilo:
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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