Reassembling the central outlet manifold with no o-rings.

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elan

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Location
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I have got one of those some time ago and finally was able to put my hands on it to clean and overhaul it.

Now the question is. The manifold uses no o-rings in the connection between the central piece and those pieces screwing into the tanks. The central piece has the ball shape ends that go into spheric shape seats. I assume they just seal because they are soft. Do I need to do anything special when reassembling those ? Or I just tighten them up well?

Thanks a lot,
 
Leave the bands off or loose. Lay the tanks on a flat surface to keep them aligned, sit on them and using two wrenches at the same time tighten both nut evenly by pulling on one and pushing on the other. I use two large 12" adjustable wrenches (Crescent wrench). If you try to tighten one nut at a time the center section will want to rotate out of position when the nut turns.
 
What Captain said
+
Make sure that matting brass parts are very clean. No lubricant or any other contaminants can be present on the sealing surfaces.
 
Great, thats was I thought. I overhauled the manifold cleaned it and lubricated the valves yesterday. Waiting for the bands to come to assemble the tanks. Bought the second wrench yesterday:)
 
I would add to take any boots off the bottom of the tanks so that they lay truly flat.

The center section to tank elbow joint on the manifold you are using is a Compressed Gas Association CGA 540 connection and is designed for service at 3000 PSI, and is the same connection used on Welding O2 regulators, some of us will tell you that they are fine up to 3500+ PSI. So, you can use it on modern aluminum tanks as well as vintage steels.

Do not let anyone tell you different,
 
I picked up the same type US diver manifold and it cleaned up very well. I plan on putting it on my 72's. The valve knob, spring (clean), & nut was easy to remove. When I went to remove the shut off valve retaining flange it was so tight I stopped for fear of breaking something. I believe in the 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' philosophy so may just leave it alone. The valve moves easily but haven't subjected it to hp. I will know if it leaks when I get the tanks filled in both open & closed positions. Should I still try to get it apart and clean it or leave well enough alone.

When I got it along with the bands/back pack was a Healthways scubair J regulator in original box that doesn't look like it ever saw water. Is it worth keeping
 
I picked up the same type US diver manifold and it cleaned up very well. I plan on putting it on my 72's. The valve knob, spring (clean), & nut was easy to remove. When I went to remove the shut off valve retaining flange it was so tight I stopped for fear of breaking something. I believe in the 'if it ain't broke don't fix it' philosophy so may just leave it alone. The valve moves easily but haven't subjected it to hp. I will know if it leaks when I get the tanks filled in both open & closed positions. Should I still try to get it apart and clean it or leave well enough alone.

When I got it along with the bands/back pack was a Healthways scubair J regulator in original box that doesn't look like it ever saw water. Is it worth keeping


Go here https://backup.filesanywhere.com/fs/Link.aspx
and download the J60 & J62 presentation and you will see how to take the manifold apart.
 
I have done quite a few old valves both double and single. If it operates easily just go ahead and use it and worry about leaks as they appear. Having said that sometimes the only way to disassemble one without damage is the to use Aero Koil penetrating oil and the judicious use of heat from a propane torch to loosen the frozen threads. Done correctly it won't damage soft seats.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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