YS-27 vs YS-110 Questions

[DvrRick]

I have an Oly C-5060WZ with a PT-020 case.

I am looking at the YS-27DX and YS-110 and had some comparison and compatibility questions.

1) Is YS-110 TTL compatible with the Oly 5060?

2) Is a target light important?

3) How is the Optical cable connected to the PT-020?

4) Is the Sea & Sea Single Sea Arm compatible with the Oly 5060?

5) For an amateur just looking for better photos is it worth spending the extra $ or is the YS-27DX a good choice? (Subjective question, I know)

Thank you for your time and help. The questions are multiplying exponentially it seems.

 

[SEA&SEA]

I have an Oly C-5060WZ with a PT-020 case.

I am looking at the YS-27DX and YS-110 and had some comparison and compatibility questions.

1) Is YS-110 TTL compatible with the Oly 5060?

2) Is a target light important?

3) How is the Optical cable connected to the PT-020?

4) Is the Sea & Sea Single Sea Arm compatible with the Oly 5060?

5) For an amateur just looking for better photos is it worth spending the extra $ or is the YS-27DX a good choice? (Subjective question, I know)

Thank you for your time and help. The questions are multiplying exponentially it seems.

Hi DvrRick-
Hopefully, these answers will help you determine the best strobe for you.
1) Yes, the YS-110 and the YS-27DX are compatible with the Olympus 5060.
2) The target light is advantageous when shooting in low-light conditions or when the camera may need additional light to focus and capture an image, since it is built-in you would not require a separate focusing light and the need to independently adjust.
3) Yes, the Sea Arm Light (#20503) is compatible with the PT-020 housing.
4) The fiber-optic cable (#50107) would be attached using the supplied velcro mask set (#50109), this mask can be customized to fit onto the housing directly over the internal camera flash. The cable will mount onto the mask set and direct the camera's internal flash into the cable.
4) The YS-27 is a capable strobe priced at 399 MSRP and would work well with your setup. The YS-110 will have a higher guide number (more power), 12-step power adjustment, built-in LED target light, faster recycle time and is compatible with SLR cameras if you upgrade in the future.

 

[DvrRick]

Thank you for you quick response. I am going to go with the YS-27DX for now and if I really get into it I can upgrade to a more powerful strobe or add a 2nd to the setup.

Thanks again,

Rick

 

[Magnus.s]

Hi DvrRick,
I'm using two YS-110 together with my Olympus 7070 (and 5050) and I'm much happier with this configuration then I was with my previous Ikelites...

// Magnus;

 

[JackConnick]

Either strobe would work. One point is that the YS110 besides being more powerful, is much faster and can be used with a DSLR later.

I disagree that you would not need a focus light. In many situations you need to aim the strobe away or in back of a subject. Using the edge of the beam to light a subject in bad viz is the only way to reduce backscatter. A target light aims the strobe, a focus light is for the camera and you to frame and focus. They are especially useful in low light or at night.

For more information comparing strobes see: Choosing Strobes for UW Point & Shoot cameras

Jack

 

[Magnus.s]

I agree with JackConnick, the focusing lights can be very useful (and on YS-110 the "aiming light" is so good that I have even made night dives where I have not bothered starting my main light...) especially if you are not diving in gin clear waters with perfect sunlight....

// Magnus;

 

[DvrRick]

I've been playing with the YS-27 (above water) and it recycles very quickly which is nice. There are so many factors in taking good underwater shots that it starts to get overwhelming for a novice. I just want a set up where every picture I take looks like a professional shot that could be found in a magazine or on someones wall. Which camera does that?

 

[Magnus.s]

It's the challange that makes it interesting?

 

[hutterw]

[FONT=&quot]Please be aware the YS-27 diffuser does not completely cover the face of the strobe. This results in an uneven lighting with a light arc towards the top of the strobe. You can reduce this effect by aim the strobe past the subject. In low light conditions it is very difficult to eliminate this light arc. That said, I have shot some very nice pictures with this strobe and I am sure you will also.[/FONT]

 

[Puffer Fish]

I have a couple of YS-110's... one very nice strobe and the best I have ever used. I would be hard pressed to name a better unit for the price.

With the best batteries available and using TTL, their recycle time is far faster than is shown.