Roll Control System

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Thanks for all the info. I think I made the mistake of assuming there were different types of dri-deck because they allow you to select your intended use. I assumed it took you to a different product. It looks like it just caters the next screen to your use for advertising purposes. I will have to check the sites you linked to Wil. I assumed the best price was through dri-deck themselves but I could be wrong. I know they were selling some kind of "package" that included 12 sq ft. of material. I am going to have to take some measurements before I order. I definitely don't want to order more than I need.

For the lines, is there anything bad about having all of the lines be on the surface? Basically, the maximum number of divers we would ever have on the boat is 4. Other than the anchor line (obviously), would I run into problems having all other lines be surface lines going from the boat to the anchor line, etc.? When I was diving with a charter in Thailand, all the lines they set up were on the surface. In Key West, they set up the lines submerged (as Wil described). I know part of their reasoning was they hung a few tanks at 15ft in case someone needed the air for a safety stop. I don't know if there are reasons beyond that to submerge the lines. I assume keeping them on the surface would be easier to setup.

For the current line, do you guys let it hang all the way back its full length or do you attach it at two points on the back of the boat so it forms a "U" shape? 150ft. is definitely asking for another boat to cut up. Thanks for the tip of splicing poly line. I saw a video on splicing on the West Marine site. They make it look easy but I'm sure I would need a few beers in me before I try it.

For the ladder, I was originally going to go with something similar to Nemrod's setup. Unfortunately, with the design of our swim platform, it would be difficult to mount it to the platform. I would definitely have to reinforce the platform, which requires me locating and obtaining a piece of the material it is made of. I would also most likely have to get rid of the ladder I already have, which I would rather not do. The boat gets used for tubing and fishing more than it will for diving. I like having the small ladder on the back of the boat while we are fishing, just in case someone has a few too many and stumbles off the back of the boat while using the "head." The water temps here are always around 54 so I wouldn't want someone struggling to get back in the boat because I left the dive ladder at home. I could get a new small ladder to install on top of the platform but that requires buying two new ladders, which obviously wouldn't be desirable.

Talking with the LDS guy that I will be diving with more often than not, we've decided that ditching gear before boarding is going to be the best option. That will help me with the ladder decision because at least we're not going to be climbing out with lots of gear on, especially if diving doubles. That being said, I would prefer to buy one ladder that lasts than have to replace it every year. My other option is to mount the ladder to the transom, which really doesn't appeal to me. The design of my boat makes the swim platform side of the boat better for exiting the water. If I can't use the platform with the new ladder, it makes that whole side of the boat difficult to use at all. The other side of the outboard has a well and a trim tab I would have to contend with. The idea for Nemrod's setup isn't dead yet. I am still looking around. The one issue we have is none of us are small people. A lot of the ladders have a weight limit of 250lbs. Without gear on, we're fine. If we were to try to board with gear one we'd blow that weight limit out of the water and tear up the ladder.

I do have a big favor for Nemrod. I'm not sure if you store your boat at home or have time. If the answer is yes to both, I would love to know the distance from the bend in your ladder bracket to the rear holes on the bracket. Basically, if I mounted the same bracket on top of my swim platform, I would have to make the bracket lay over (and clear) a piece of stainless tubing that outlines the platform itself. If I could get that tubing to sit right in the bend on the bracket, I am wondering how much room there is between the bend and the rear holes. I can post a picture of my swim platform if it would help. I could also make a sketch of what I need the measurement of. This might hurt more than help since my artistic skills are worse than my singing skills.

Thank you for all the info and help. It definitely will help me order the correct stuff (hopefully). I am going to get the LDS to order the Roll Control System this week. Then I need to make a decision on the ladder and get that going. Thanks guys,

Randy
 
The length from bend to the forward holes is 9 inches and the aft set are 7 inches:

DSCF0020.jpg


Does that answer your question?

My, my, haven't things changed:

slide122.jpg


N
 
Perfect. Yes, thank you. I was trying to find that info online and wasn't having much success. This might make your setup and option for me. My swim ladder is mounted under the platform so I have to see if the swim ladder would still slide out and extend with that bracket in place. Thanks again.

On a side note, my buddy just bought a boat that looks about that old. He keeps asking me why he as so many problem with his boat and I don't have any (knock on wood).

Randy
 
Nemrod,

Did you use the end caps on your track? My guess is they give you a more finished look and stop people and gear from getting snagged on the aluminum track. I am going to go to the LDS today to get the stuff ordered. Thanks again,

Randy
 
Nemrod,

Did you use the end caps on your track? My guess is they give you a more finished look and stop people and gear from getting snagged on the aluminum track. I am going to go to the LDS today to get the stuff ordered. Thanks again,

Randy

You betcha I did. You either have to cut them at an angle and then drill a stop clevis or use the end caps because, at least on my boat, they are knee height and would take a chunk of skin if given the chance. The end caps are just fine. I mean, it is obvious they are not "Whaler" quality (just teasing) but they look and work fine.

N
 
Cool. I am off to order the stuff now. I am having to cut two 48 in track into four 24 in tracks so I need to get 4 sets of everything. At least I am not ordering the installation kit, which I would have done had you guys not helped. Thanks.

Randy
 
Ordered the Roll Control stuff. Should be here in a week or so. Now I need to figure out what I will do with the ladder. Thanks for all the help with the system. I'd appreciate any feedback or answers to my previous questions about setting up the lines. Thanks again,

Randy
 
Anyone know the recommended height to mount these? I have a 13" step up in my boat that I would like to mount the rail to. Just wondering if its high enough to securely hold the tanks.
 
The recommended height is where it won't interfere with the tank bands on the BC. Both the BC and tank affect that. On my Boston Whaler, the roll control works with HP100 and HP120, but not HP80. We just bungee HP80s in place.

I'll be down at the boat this weekend. I'll get the height of my rack.

If I were doing it again, I'd have two channels in parallel with a bit more than the width of a tank buckle between their center lines. That would work for more BCs.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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