XZ-1 ... IMO, a poor choice for an underwater camera

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A Pacific Spiny Lumpsucker ... prized among local photographers, and rather common this time of year. In another month or two they'll go wherever lumpsuckers go during the 8 or 9 months of the year when they're rarely seen ... then next October or November they'll suddenly be common again ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)
 
very nice
 
Hey Bob - read all your XZ-1 efforts, looks like you are getting some results!

I shoot with an slr, but I did a lot of research on Olympus and Canon 'point and squirts' and ended up liking this camera more than the G12.

I bought this with the Oly housing for my wife for xmas, gave her a photo class for two hours, and took her on a dive the first time on Thurs. She did great. She is a seasoned dive instructor already, so it was fairly easy.
If your dive buddy intends to learn photography u/w or on land, this is a great camera to do so, and yes the changing of shutter speed is a little fiddly compared to some other housings, but doable. Aperture is a breeze with a front mounted dial. The Fix housing is better but the cost is quite steep. The auto-focus tracking feature is fun if you are following a fish around.

If you have a strobe which can fiber-optic-cable to the housing, like the Inon which my wife uses, you will find it even easier to use. Shooting manual really isn't that hard once she learns some basic explanations of what the major camera controls actually do.
When she is ready to accessorize, the terrific Inon UWL 100 wide angle lens screws perfectly into the threads on the 67mm port and provides excellent close up wide angle opportunities.

The fact that the XZ-1 does have all the controls that it does, means that you can take control - shooting on 'auto' underwater is hit and miss most of the time, 'manual' puts the photographer in charge.
You could come down to the Bahamas for a photo course!
All the best
Eddy
 
My buddy has this camera with a Sea&Sea YS-02 strobe and loves it, but he also has the Nauticam housing. It exposes all camera controls and has better ergonomics, but costs quite a bit more.
I was just about to suggest...Nauticam. I believe for a point and shoot this cam is prob the best going right now.
 
An update ... we just returned from our Maldives trip. During that trip, Cheng had a lot of issues getting the strobe to fire with this camera. In most modes it wouldn't fire at all. In Program mode, it would fire, but not in sync with the camera ... effectively doing nothing. The only setting I could make the strobe work in was Manual mode ... and even then the strobe would only sync when the flash was set to 1/16.

A couple of photographers on the boat who know a lot more about photography than I do attempted to help ... but to no avail. They suggested that perhaps the camera is malfunctioning, and that I should take it back where I purchased it.

Very disappointing, because without a strobe the camera is effectively useless underwater. Her topside pics were great, but the underwater pics were the worst she's ever taken on a dive trip.

If I had it to do over again, I would not buy this camera. I would definitely not recommend it for the casual underwater picture-taker. I've never seen a point and shoot camera this hard to figure out before.

Buyer's remorse, for sure ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)
 
An update ... we just returned from our Maldives trip. During that trip, Cheng had a lot of issues getting the strobe to fire with this camera. In most modes it wouldn't fire at all. In Program mode, it would fire, but not in sync with the camera ... effectively doing nothing. The only setting I could make the strobe work in was Manual mode ... and even then the strobe would only sync when the flash was set to 1/16.

A couple of photographers on the boat who know a lot more about photography than I do attempted to help ... but to no avail. They suggested that perhaps the camera is malfunctioning, and that I should take it back where I purchased it.

Very disappointing, because without a strobe the camera is effectively useless underwater. Her topside pics were great, but the underwater pics were the worst she's ever taken on a dive trip.

If I had it to do over again, I would not buy this camera. I would definitely not recommend it for the casual underwater picture-taker. I've never seen a point and shoot camera this hard to figure out before.

Buyer's remorse, for sure ...

... Bob (Grateful Diver)
There must be a problem with the camera. You should be able to sync your strobe at any shutter speed and use ttl on a,s or p mode. In manual you need to set the strobe to the first position and then adjust power setting manually.
These setting are for the YS-01, Bob. Not sure which strobe(s) you are using....
 
Indeed, it could be problem on your camera or your strobe .. what is your strobe?I have 4 types strobes, ie. YS-01, D-2000, epoque ES-230DS and Metz 58AF-1 (in 10bar).Before a trip, I always check those strobes paired with all camera I have, ie. XZ-1, EPL-1 and SP-350 all working well except no STTL for XZ-1 w/ YS-01. No problem on synchronization although for ES-230DS (manual) during day light I have to set the camera to half power as the sensor seem not sensitive or bad quality FO. The STLL of XZ-1 and D2000 work on all setting (A, S, P and M)
 
Wisnu,

I just received my XZ-1 with YS-01 strobes. How do you recommend I use the strobes. I have not used the camera yet. I was supposed to head for Fla tonight, but cancelled because of poor weather.

I have a trip to Bonaire on Mar 3rd and any tips would be appreciated on getting the best out of camera and strobes.

Thanks
 
Herb,

The XZ-1 STTL does not work with YS-01; at least for my camera, not sure if S&S has release new firmware for their YS-01.

for macro, our starting setting is iso100, M mode F8, 1/160, macro on, force flash at 1/64 or 1/16 with YS-01 in M mode, for YS-01 select the second M setting (before TTL), strobe power depend on the distance, you can practice in the pool and refine later, make a note as necessary, say for 15cm, 30cm and 60 cm.

for WA, starting iso200, M mode, F5.6, 1/90 (adjust 1-2 up or down as necessary once you in the water to get your prefered blue bg, macro off; force flash at 1/64 or 1/16; use strobe to control your fg, same as above, adjust power according to distance, but usualy I put at 75% as starting point. Sometime hv to crank to IS0400, but not more.

Cheers
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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