Tray and Arms for TG-4

[mattleach]

I have a TG-4 with PT-056 housing that is setup with the following tray/strobe: Sea & Sea YS-03 Strobe Compact Camera Set

Im still a bit of a novice but do not like the flex arm at all. I'm looking for an upgrade. So far i am still using the single strobe but have plans to add a second strobe or video light. I usually have a GoPro mounted with the camera.

I was looking at the following 2 tray/arm setups
S-Tray and Arms: Optical Ocean S-Tray & Double Lightweight Arm Set
Kraken TR06: Kraken TR06 Tray 3+5in Double Arm Set

Im curious the difference between the 2 other than the $100 price difference or other options that people are using before pulling the trigger. Im looking for something that will pretty much serve as a do it all tray. I have no plans to go to a larger camera as i don't shoot all that often.

Sometimes i have the GoPro alone, others Camera alone or have both and would like to be able to use something for both.

Any opinions or suggestions for trays/arms?

Thanks in advance

 

[FezUSA]

Same boat with current set up, looking to add the Z330 into the mix and considering tray/arm options. So many choices!! What did you end up choosing and have you had a chance to dive with it yet?

 

[mattleach]

I ended up going with the Kraken TR05 single arm kit - Kraken TR05 5+8in Arm & Single Tray Set
I then added a second handle - Kraken Handle & Extension for Adjustable Tray

Once i add a second light to my setup i'll add a second arm.

Unfortunately i have not had a chance to dive with it yet.

 

[outofofficebrb]

Sorry, late to the party. I will provide some info in case someone comes along searching the forums later on. For anyone else researching this, if you think you will need floats for buoyancy, keep the arms in mind if you have a specific brand or type of floats you want to use as not all floats are compatible with all arms, etc. Or, think ahead and get buoyancy arms right out of the gate. Those usually work with any clamp. For compacts, as you add strobes and wet lenses with domes, it will get heavier and heavier and you will likely need some form of float to help counteract the weight. Some folks have used yoga blocks and sealed PVC pipes as an alternative if you like DIY.

Let us know how you like your setup, @mattleach, when you have a chance to dive with it.

 

[mattleach]

I spoke with a sales rep at Optical Ocean before i purchased and that was one of the reasons why i went with the Kraken setup. They explained it was more versatile in the event i wanted to add floats at a later date. Figured better off spending the extra $100 now than to do it all over later.

Hoping to do some photography dives soon.

 

[Luis H]

I upgraded my TG-4 with Kraken arms.

The big advantage of the Kraken arms you are looking at is that you can add floats. My system as shown is less than 0.5 pounds of weight underwater and it is perfectly balanced. I can reach into tight spaces with only one hand holding the camera to take a shot.

I really like these floats with the smooth surface. They don’t hold a water like my older hard foam floats.

I actually bought two 5 inch extra extensions, but I don’t find them necessary. Theses strobes are not that powerful, so I don't feel that I can move them too far apart.

Once I am in the water I normally adjust the arms to be horizontal to reach far out (further than with the old flex arms). But, I adjust the position of the strobes as needed. Sometimes I like to illuminate from above or for some macro from the sides.

I guess there were three new posts added while I was typing.

 

[FezUSA]

I upgraded my TG-4 with Kraken arms.

The big advantage of the Kraken arms you are looking at is that you can add floats. My system as shown is less than 0.5 pounds of weight underwater and it is perfectly balanced. I can reach into tight spaces with only one hand holding the camera to take a shot.

I really like these floats with the smooth surface. They don’t hold a water like my older hard foam floats.

I actually bought two 5 inch extra extensions, but I don’t find them necessary. Theses strobes are not that powerful, so I don't feel that I can move them too far apart.

Once I am in the water I normally adjust the arms to be horizontal to reach far out (further than with the old flex arms). But, I adjust the position of the strobes as needed. Sometimes I like to illuminate from above or for some macro from the sides.


View attachment 525125


View attachment 525123



I guess there were three new posts added while I was typing.

@Luis H : So, 2 x Kraken arms with ball on top, 2 x clamps, 2 x extension arms. What about that extension piece that connects the one handle to the S&S tray? Can you link to that if you don't mind? I will probably go with plain arms at less than 1/2 the price of the float ones, at least for a while!! Do the arms connect directly to the S&S tray or is other additional hardware needed?

Much appreciated!

 

[Luis H]

The extension with the downward offset is something I had from another system. It is from Intova. I had to do some drilling of that extension and I also had to drill the S&S tray to screw the Kraken handles directly to the tray.

Intova extension:

Intova Slim Base Tray Extension - Divein2Scuba | Scuba & Spearfishing SUPERSTORE Australia


The Kraken handles come with extensions, but they are too short for my setup.

Kraken Handle & Extension for Adjustable Tray

I like the downward offset of that extension that I adapted. It provides nice clearance for my hand.


I used the standard Kraken clamps and Kraken 5" Ball to YS Aluminum Arm.

Kraken 5" Ball to YS Aluminum Arm


The floats I just added the 10Bar Small Foam Arm Floats. They are only $22 for the pair.

10Bar Small Foam Arm Floats


I would not spend the money on actual float arms when this floats do a great job.


My setup involved some drilling and getting some stainless steel hardware. But I did it that way because I already had some of the hardware and I like how it felt. I used a similar bottom tray with my old Flex Arm handles.

I am very comfortable modifying hardware like this.

A couple of things I would recommend if you modify anything like this is to try to use 316 Stainless hardware if you can. I buy from Mc Master Carr. It is a lot more corrosion resistant than the typical 304 Stainless.



Also (and this is IMO very important) when putting any bolted joint together I will always use some Tef-Gel. This Tef-Gel keeps dissimilar metals from creating galvanic corrosion. It really works great and it doesn’t wash off. The stuff is just amazing how well it works. I have worked in the marine industry for several decades and never seen any other anti-seaze product that works this well.

https://smile.amazon.com/Original-c...QQ4F8VA5T3R&psc=1&refRID=H8FVYA7S7QQ4F8VA5T3R

https://smile.amazon.com/Tef-Gel-TG...TPZ6D32349V&psc=1&refRID=WW9MW4R6XTPZ6D32349V

 

[Navymarkv]

It’s funny how the costs ad up!

 

[M DeM]

[QUOTE="Also (and this is IMO very important) when putting any bolted joint together I will always use some Tef-Gel. This Tef-Gel keeps dissimilar metals from creating galvanic corrosion. It really works great and it doesn’t wash off. The stuff is just amazing how well it works. I have worked in the marine industry for several decades and never seen any other anti-seaze product that works this well.

https://smile.amazon.com/Original-c...QQ4F8VA5T3R&psc=1&refRID=H8FVYA7S7QQ4F8VA5T3R[/QUOTE]

Where did you use this? The reason I ask is that I can see the silver in my ball mounts from where the clamps are scraping away