Regulator Choice

[Alex Chernov]

I am about to buy myself a regulator. I did some browsing and found a few of them and I am confused. so my question really boils down to asking you whether I need to get the latest and most advanced model. I have just started divingng and did about 10 dives. Or am I better off buying are used prior model? Is there a radical difference between those? Or is it marketing mostly?

 

[Vitesse2l]

From what I read here, pretty much any mainstream reg set will do.

Choices are around whether you need cold water environmental sealing or lightweight travel. That sort of thing.

Maybe might wait until you've done a few more dives and really know what sort of diving you want to do?

My own regs are around 20 years old, which I bought used and have regularly serviced. Apeks, as it happens, but much older regs of all makes are used by folks here.

 

[Vitesse2l]

Another thing - I think there's a few reg sets that are hard to service for various reasons.

Run the model numbers of anything that tempts you by the board and im sure you will get good advice.

 

[BlueTrin]

Once you are decided you want to buy some, you probably want to talk to some buddies who are doing the same type of dive than what you want to do but with more experience than yourself.

Then you can ask them what they recommend and why ?

For example, where I live Apeks is a very popular brand because they are cold water, the XTX50 set is well priced in the UK and easy to service here.

The same set may not be competitively prices or easy to service where you live.

 

[Belzelbub]

There is a lot of variation in regulator pricing. You can spend a few hundred dollars or a couple thousand. There is a difference between those low end models and the top of the line. Not a whole lot of difference between the mid models and the upper end, though.

There are a couple of different features that may or may not be important.

1. Piston or diaphragm 1st stage. Personal preference. Technically, a piston reg can flow more air, but either can flow more than one or two humans can use.
2. Balanced or Unbalanced. You want balanced for consistent breathing.
3. Environmental sealing. Important if diving in very cold or dirty water. Keeps water away from moving parts in the first stage, so easier to clean.
4. Adjustable breathing resistance. Generally not found in lower end 2nd stages. Can be useful, but not required.
5. Venturi control. This is useful to prevent free flowing at the surface. Most have this, and some are starting to make it automatic. This is often also called Dive/Pre-Dive switch.
6. DIN vs Yoke tank attachment. Most are yoke. DIN is more secure, and can attach to a yoke tank with a simple adapter. More and more tanks in my area have convertible valves so can be used with either. Using a DIN regulator on a yoke tank is a simple temporary conversion. Converting a yoke regulator to DIN is a lot more involved.
7. Auto close devices. Designed to keep water out of a regulator by closing a valve when disconnected from the tank. Mostly a gimmick. You should get in the habit of securing the dust cap when not in use. Some older versions were actually recalled due to potential for closing during the dive.

Of most importance, though is getting a regulator that can be serviced. There are some models that can’t really be serviced anymore due to parts availability. Ask here, and I’m sure someone will know. As far as brands, avoid Dacor as these can’t really be serviced anymore. There may be a few that have service kits around, but difficult to find. Likewise, Zeagle regulars made before 2000 might be difficult. Prior to 2000, Zeagle were rebranded Apeks. Zeagle can’t get Apeks parts anymore. It’s possible there is an Apeks kit that will work on those, but I don’t know of any dive shops that will service them. Post 2000, the Zeagles are fine, and pretty much all use the same service kits, so service will be available for a while on the newer Zeagles.

Whatever you decide on, make sure you can get it serviced locally.

 

[Alex Chernov]

How about this one?

Aqualung Titan Regulator | eBay

 

[Marie13]

You need to be careful what you buy off eBay and the like. You can end up with completely unrepairable old junk. Was once at my local shop when a woman was picking up the regs her husband had bought on eBay. They were old, couldn’t be fixed (parts not available), and they still had to pay for having them looked at. She wasn’t happy.

 

[Marie13]

How about this one?

Aqualung Titan Regulator | eBay

Looks decent but where are you planning to dive? Warm water only? Are you sure you want to buy your own?

 

[JackD342]

How about this one?

Aqualung Titan Regulator | eBay

That looks to be the current iteration of the Aqualung Titan, and an ABS octo. Fine for recreational diving in water >50°F.

The 1st stage is balanced but is not sealed, and is more compact than some. (Currently Aqualung uses the same basic 1st stage for Titan, Core, and Mikron, with differences of ACD, environmental seal, and styling.)

The 2nd stage is not balanced but does have a venturi knob for dive/pre-dive adjustment. If you plan to push the limits on depth or temperature, shop for something else. Otherwise, as long as this is in the condition as listed and no hidden problems, it will do the job.

 

[formernuke]

If buying used make sure it's a model that you can still get parts for as mentioned above.

I recommend environmentally sealed for a couple reasons. If you do decide to do cold water you have regs which can handle it and they stay cleaner internally, a clean reg is a happy reg.