How to get boot off of gauges?

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You're right, of course, I should have posted a picture; however, the boot is in the garbage now, and I'm just figuring out whether I can get the spg to work.

All of the posts here have been great, though, and very helpful, and I do really appreciate people taking the time. I'll post a picture of the gauge after I take it off the hose in the next few days.
 
If you post a photo of the console it would be helpful. Sometimes the consoles were molded units (no screws holding it together) and I've had to soak them in boiling water to soften them enough to pop out the gauges. Other times, I've removed writing plates from the back and found the attachment screws underneath. My 2psi

I would recommend really hot water, but not sure I (personally) would stick my gauges in water that was boiling. The heat could cause problems with any plastic in the gauges such as the compass. A few minutes soak in 80c (176f) to 90c (194f) water should work as well. The higher the temp the more potential for damage.

It should also be known that some gauges, such as depth meters are oil-filled with a diaphragm for the back of the gauge. Care must be taken when removing/replacing these as the diaphragm can be easily torn...you will know because the oil will leak out (don't ask how I know).

-Z
 
I would recommend really hot water, but not sure I (personally) would stick my gauges in water that was boiling. The heat could cause problems with any plastic in the gauges such as the compass. A few minutes soak in 80c (176f) to 90c (194f) water should work as well. The higher the temp the more potential for damage.

It should also be known that some gauges, such as depth meters are oil-filled with a diaphragm for the back of the gauge. Care must be taken when removing/replacing these as the diaphragm can be easily torn...you will know because the oil will leak out (don't ask how I know).

-Z

I haven't used hot water on a console. Hot water does work great installing SP 109 exhaust tees on the 2nd stage.
 
A hair dryer works pretty well for removing/installing hard rubber components too.

BTW The swivel spool is one area where "the bigger the glob, the better the job" holds true. "Pack" that area with grease to keep the water and silt out. Unless high concentrations of O2 (>40%) will be used, silicone grease is a better choice for this application.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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