Bracketing with macro

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Ardy

Contributor
Messages
1,240
Reaction score
178
Location
Australia - Southern HIghlands NSW
# of dives
2500 - 4999
Hi all, I am messing around with bracketing after doing something similar with HDR. I am thinking that bracketing might have more possibilities for slow-moving things like nudi's.
Anyone given this a go and what were the results like.
Note: I have only messed around out of the water and I am hopeful this covid mess clears up and I can get away on a trip this year.
 
I bracket all the time and not just with macro. I shoot an older OMD EM5. I especially bracket with macro if I am shooting on sand. I also change strobe power and direction more with macro. Slow movers I generally will adjust F stops but I will change shutter speed if necesaray. I have done test shots on land just to get my starting point and I try to shoot in lower light to try to simulate UW. Even with a starting point, dark, overhang, or I can't get both strobes on the subject, etc means I usually have to bracket anyway.
Assuming you are using a tray, I moved the handle a bit closer to the housing in order to better reach the wheels better. I also set my camera to view the photo just a bit longer so I can judge if I need to make changes.
 
Hi Colo, Great post. What 'wait' do you use between shots for flash to recharge?
 
Hi Colo, Great post. What 'wait' do you use between shots for flash to recharge?
I think it takes about 2-4 seconds to recharge but I never timed it. In the recharge time I am looking at the shot to see what I want to do - not just for exposure but framing, strobe power, etc. Strobe power I generally leave at half power for macro (Sea and Sea YS01s).
I also assume you are shooting manually i.e. no priority on modes.
 
yes, I shoot manually. If you are bracketing don't you have to keep it still during all exposures and that would mean between recharges?
 
To be clear, this is not multiple photos with one shutter button press. Single press, single photo I think is what you are talking about. If so, then no the camera doea not have to be still. I am referring to bracketing by manually changing fstop and/or shutter speed between shots. Are we on the same page for this? If the latter (multiple photos with one press of the shutter) then that is a different animal. I have never done that so I can't say how it works. It is an option in my Oly software.
 
Hi I think we are at cross purposes. I am talking about several photo's to make an image that is in focus across a set area of the image. Bracketing as you describe it is only to ensure you get the best exposure. AF Bracketing is also different from an HDR image. The Olympus EM5 mk2 does automatic stacking with bracketing or HDR. It only works with some cameras EM1X, EM1 mk3, EM1mk2, EM5mk2 V4 and EM1 V4 firmware and lenses:
M.Zuiko ED 7-14mm f/2.8 PRO
M.Zuiko ED 12-40 f/2.8 PRO
M.Zuiko ED 12-100 f/4 PRO
M.Zuiko ED 40-150 f/2.8 PRO
M.Zuiko ED 300mm f/4 IS PRO
M.Zuiko ED 8mm f/1.8 Fisheye PRO
M.Zuiko ED 30mm f/3.5 Macro
M.Zuiko ED 60mm f/2.8 Macro

I have tested in handheld and it works well but not tried it underwater on macro stuff. Sorry for the confusion.
Anyone tried this???
 
I have not tried it and the only time I have investigated that was via post editing and stacking photos. I think you will have some issuees with recharge time on strobes and holding the camera in the same position. There are few places in Cozumel I would try it due to current. Good luck.
 
To get focus stacking to work underwater, I think the only practical way is to not use strobes but rather to use a very bright focus light. I have used it quite a bit for mostly stationary nudis and it works OK. I think most people when they talk about bracketing usually mean exposure bracketing (which can also be done automatically). I think it could work with strobes if you have one of the beasts (YS250, Retra Pro) but for me at least it doesn't work with a Inon 330 even at very moderate power.
Bill
 
Hi Bill, I have been thinking more about this, something I was hoping someone else had done for me!
When I can get out of National lock up I will buy one of those cheap Chinese video lights for $50 and try HDR images. The drawback is that it only produces a jpg and doesn't store the raw files. I will also try upping the iso and seeing if I can auto bracket with a 1/4 flash between shots.
I am messing around with wide-angle (above water) shots and auto bracketing/HDR makes a big difference.
You are right the flash is the big limiter to this method.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

Back
Top Bottom