My Rix SA-6 Diesel

[iain/hsm]

Oh and whats that second plugged port doing in that photo? is it an outlet? If so you could also plumb that gauge into it.

Use another parallel 1/4 BSPP to 1/4 female NPT adaptor then use a NPT street elbow into the pressure gauge.
Your gauge position is upstream of the BPR already and its only showing the internal filter pressure. So either port outlet position would do.

But also consider its not a water condensate drain port that been blocked off before you go Bull in the china shop on it.

To get clearance you will have to make it up first on the bench then spin the entire assembly into the port. You should have enough clearance with the adaptor and street elbow but again check first. Also you will have to connect this part in first before connecting the BPR bits as you need room enough to spin it.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

Oh and whats that second plugged port doing in that photo? is it an outlet? If so you could also plumb that gauge into it.

Use another parallel 1/4 BSPP to 1/4 female NPT adaptor then use a NPT street elbow into the pressure gauge.
Your gauge position is upstream of the BPR already and its only showing the internal filter pressure. So either port outlet position would do.

But also consider its not a water condensate drain port that been blocked off before you go Bull in the china shop on it.

To get clearance you will have to make it up first on the bench then spin the entire assembly into the port. You should have enough clearance with the adaptor and street elbow but again check first. Also you will have to connect this part in first before connecting the BPR bits as you need room enough to spin it.

There is an outlet on the other side. The 1/4" BSP in the middle on either side are outlets, and the ones towards the front (where the bleeder is) are both drains.

I had thought about doing it that way, but when I was sitting there looking at it I had only ordered 2 1/4" BSP fittings. The only way I can 90 right away would be to do a T, and 90 straight of with a gauge on the 90, then add the indicator and PMV vertical up the side of the tower. The problem I had with this was the gauge would be furthest from the outside and most exposed to damage.

Plus...I want to spin this thing around when I'm done and DO fill your tanks over in England.

I like your ideas... it may eventually get redone that way, but for now I'd like to work on the unit and get it fired up and pumping some tanks. Thankfully you don't see anything"wrong", just not as neat as you would prefer...

 

[rhwestfall]

I use the moisture indicator to tell me when I should be replacing the filter.

If it hits the filter, I've toasted it... Tells me I'm dumping moisture as I should be (or not)... Keep in mind, I'm running an oil/water separator, then a 13x vessel, then to my filter (3 component "cartridge", but as it is a home packable, I don't have fancy factory strips in it, nor could I utilize them as the packable cartridge is black), and lastly through hyper-filters..

As I said, its just me..

actually, it seems Iain may have validated this in his "two stack" narrative that I essentially am running... or not...

 

[rob.mwpropane]

There are guides on either side of each bearing, I've been all through the manual. I can't seem to find the tolerance for how much wear these can have. Mine are worn a little. There's some play on the rod ends, but I don't know what's normal / acceptable.

Excuse the picture, it's from when I 1st got the unit. She's all cleaned up with the correct grease now.

 

[iain/hsm]

For both the SA-6 and SA-3

1. Rock from side to side the rod end casing at 3 position TDC, centre line and BDC on each of the 3 stages.
2. If the rod end metal casing is clear of the swash plate metal housing your OK
3. If its not and metal touches metal then you need to replace the pins. (two for each stage)

If all you want is a tighter tollerance or "rock" angle then simply remove the rod end bolt, pull out the 2 guide pins and reverse the plastic guide pin rods so a new "face" is showing.

Now if you then find that the other end has been used already and shows heavy wear grooves or an angled scuff, then you need to replace the pins with new.

The guide pins are made from a simple 1/4" rod, its the specific plastic polymer material that's the expensive part at $9 each and I can't offer a cheaper alternative such as delrin, co polymer acetal or POM. All of which would work to a point but life expectancy would be greatly reduced and the consequence of snapping off a con rod is an expensive risk. Iain.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

For both the SA-6 and SA-3

1. Rock from side to side the rod end casing at 3 position TDC, centre line and BDC on each of the 3 stages.
2. If the rod end metal casing is clear of the swash plate metal housing your OK
3. If its not and metal touches metal then you need to replace the pins. (two for each stage)

If all you want is a tighter tollerance or "rock" angle then simply remove the rod end bolt, pull out the 2 guide pins and reverse the plastic guide pin rods so a new "face" is showing.

Now if you then find that the other end has been used already and shows heavy wear grooves or an angled scuff, then you need to replace the pins with new.

The guide pins are made from a simple 1/4" rod, its the specific plastic polymer material that's the expensive part and I can't offer an cheaper alternative such as delrin, co polymer acetal or POM. All of which would work to a point but life expectancy would be greatly reduced and the consequence of snapping off a con rod is an expensive risk. Iain.

I was wondering if I could turn them over. They have only been worn on the one side.

One thing I did notice was that the rod end bolts all have a dab of loctite. Is that supposed to be used? I couldn't find it in the manual anywhere.

Edit: I did find this in the manual regarding the pins;

 

[iain/hsm]

I was wondering if I could turn them over. They have only been worn on the one side.

One thing I did notice was that the rod end bolts all have a dab of loctite. Is that supposed to be used? I couldn't find it in the manual anywhere.

Edit: I did find this in the manual regarding the pins;

View attachment 661242

Dear Customer
Thank you for fully reading the manual.
Kind Regards. LOL

Re the use of locktite (blue) on the three 5/8 UNF rod end bolts I would agree continue to use it on the bolt threads.
Also make sure you put the correct torque on those bolts. 50ft/lbs from memory
But the biggest consideration is to make sure that the special thick washer is under each of the rod ends.

Its should be listed as a spacer shim rather than a washer as the thickness is critical to get the correct swash plate alignment approach angle to the piston rod and liner.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

Dear Customer
Thank you for fully reading the manual.
Kind Regards. LOL

Re the use of locktite (blue) on the three 5/8 UNF rod end bolts I would agree continue to use it on the bolt threads.
Also make sure you put the correct torque on those bolts. 50ft/lbs from memory
But the biggest consideration is to make sure that the special thick washer is under each of the rod ends.

Its should be listed as a spacer shim rather than a washer as the thickness is critical to get the correct swash plate alignment approach angle to the piston rod and liner.

Will do.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

Ok, did all the above, rotated bearings, filled with oil, check, filled with fuel (diesel), check. Run through the manual how to start. Pull cord until there's resistance then "decomp" and pull....... and nothing. Everything turns over, it just doesn't want to start.... any ideas? I'm starting to pull stuff apart, but there's not really a lot to a little diesel engine and I know this one started not that long ago?

 

[Couv]

Ether ...have you bled the injectors?