Just got some tanks...tell me what to do!

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

That top valve needs a new o-ring. The all probably need more than that, but if they are overhauled, they will be fine. I agree with the other guys, go to the hydro facility directly. They will also perform a visual inspection.
 
i think im going to take them to pacific wilderness in san pedro. the guys in the so cal forum say the place is really good. they're a scuba shop but they do hydros in house. i think a hydro, tumble, and vip is $35.

As for as rebuilding valves, is there any way to do it myself? Maybe some instuctions out there some where? I have a handful of extra k valves in decent shape, and I rebuild all my regs, can't be harder than that can it?

Nate
 
If you sand on that galvanized any more be sure to wear a mask, its really bad stuff to get in your lungs! Never weld it unless out doors, learned that one the hard way when I passed out welding a water tank.
BTW nice looking tanks! Hope they test fine.
 
I'm all excited now. I hope they pass. As far as my vinegar idea, anyway that could hurt anything? I'm kinda interested to try it, if nothing else but as a science experiment kinda thing...

About the valves, how much $$ does a typical overhaul run? And, would parts for the pipe thread valve be easy to come by for most shops?

thanks guys

nate
 
Most of the time all valves need is a cleaning and lube job. Just make sure you return the teflon seals to their original location and orientation. Most time the hardest thing is getting them apart because of corrosion in the threads. Use 6 point sockets on the bonnets, 12 point sockets will slip on the soft brass and booger up the hex if they are tight from corrosion.
 
Personally I would toss the valves and buy new Thermo valves (for the 3/4" tanks at least). Sometimes, older mess just isn't worth it.
 
I actually have some extra "newer" thermo valves from some luxfer al80's that I recycled...I've just never taken a valve apart before, are their specific torque measurements or anything?

thanks
 
fishmunger:
I actually have some extra "newer" thermo valves from some luxfer al80's that I recycled...I've just never taken a valve apart before, are their specific torque measurements or anything?
thanks


No, tight but not gorrila tight.
 

Back
Top Bottom