Buoyancy issue with Ikelite case and strobes?

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WOODMAN

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Location
Minneapolis area, Minnesota
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I have a G10 in an Ikelite case with dual DS125 strobes, and I find the whole thing rather heavy underwater. It causes some wrist strain holding it up and level, and I was wondering if there is some way to add some flotation to the strobes to achieve a little better neutral buoyancy? Any ideas? Thanks for your help. Woody
 
i have a similar setup

ikelite housing twin inon strobes and inon wide lens and home made base plate , there are a number of products about called "float arms " "arm floats" made by a few different folks , and including inon , just do a search , look on Marine camera distributes website ,, and wetpixel forums .

it will make your setup a bit more bulky above water , but hopefully get it near neutral underwater

Regards
Matty
 
You can try adding foam floats to your arms to help compensate for the negative buoyancy characteristics. I too have the G10/Ikelite setup, but am using only one strobe at this time, so I don't have any buoyancy issues. Ultralite arm systems has a OEM floats, which might be able to be jerry rigged to fit your Ike arm: StiX Adjustable Buoyancy Large Floats for Ultralight Strobe Arms Or you could just get a Pool Noodle and cut it to fit.
 
Well, I tried the pool noodle gambit, and it didn't work too well. As some of you have surely guessed by now, I found that the stuff crushes with depth, and there goes your buoyancy. So, it looks like I will have to use some kind of non-compressable foam for this. I saw some material in an old archive about Diviny(?) foam sheets cut to fit and bound in place, but then I saw the StiX flotation belts, that are strapped around the lens housing on your camera. Hmmmm, I thought. I wonder if this would fit around the lens port on my Ikelite housing for my G10? And would it get in the way of the camera's functioning? The lens port seems to be blocking everything on the front of the camera already. The StiX belt seems to be made for a much larger lens port than the one I have, but it seems to adapt in size? Anyone here tried this little gimmick?
 
I have recently bought some ULCS buoyancy arms which help alot with the weight issue associated with Ikelite housings and strobes. These work well on my Ikelite D90 with two DS125's.

Another option that I have seen used is the Stix floatation on the arms itself. Keeps it away from the camera and lightens the load so to speak.

Regards Mark
 
I use some plumbers 1.5 inch pvc with glued caps that are ty-raped onto the unit it's cheap, reliable and works well for me.
 
I have a similiar rig, though a bit lighter, DS-51s instead of the 125s. I use the 14" ULCS bouyancy arms that bring me to about 1/2# negative. I also carry both a INON WA lens and a closeup lens that I hang on lens caddies, so that adds to the weight.

Tried the foam. Did not like it at all.
 
Amigos,

You'll likely die laughing at this but I saw a very accomplished videographer once with a heavy rig and his invention to counteract this issue.

He literally had duct taped UPSIDE DOWN to his video lite arms (think strobe arms for you still shooters) 2 smaller soda bottles.

At depth he would unscrew the caps (I think he also eventually just didn't have caps) and would pop some air into the upended bottles from his octopus regulator.

As long as he held it level or any orientation than upside down the air in the plastic bottles made his rig practically neutral!

Looked silly but it worked :)

Upon ascent he would simply turn his rig over and the air would whoosh out....

Looked funny but it proves problems with buoyancy can be solved with simple solutions!

YMMV

dhaas
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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