Apeks TX20 Conversion

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mmcdds

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I have an Apex TX20 second stage that I'm using as an octo with my ATX200. I recently decided that I'd like to convert this TX20 to TX50. The only difference between the two second stages is the knurled cracking resistance adjustment screw on the TX50(the TX20 adjustment screw can not be easily adjusted during a dive, it requires an 5mm allen wrench to adjust it) and the heat exchanger on the TX50 (the TX20 uses a plastic nut to secure the barrel to the housing, on the TX50 its made of metal and thus also acts as a heat exchanger.) So, I called my LDS with the parts numbers and asked if they would order the parts for me, which they happily agreed to do. Two days later I got a call back from the LDS with the prices that she was quoted from Apeks, she called because she was suprised at the prices and thought that she'd better check with me before ordering them. To say that I was also surprised would be tremendous understatement. The heat exchanger, which again is not much more than a nut, was $75.00 and the knurled adustment screw was a whopping $98.00, and that was just for the parts, since I told my LDS that I'd swap the parts out myself. I was stunned, needless to say, since I can pick up a brand new ATX50 octo at Lp for $149, I canceled the order. Well, as much as I really like Apeks products, I can't say that I'm wild about their upgrade policy, they don't make it impossible to upgrade, just so expensive that it becomes impractical.
 
Well, its not an upgrade policy per se. YOu wanted the individual parts, and yes they charge a premium for them...

You could make it into a TX-40 by just changing the heat exchanger, but I think that is $60 or so. Not cheap...

If you really dont like it, ebay it, and then buy a 40...
 
The unfortunate aspect is that parts are both a high cost for mfgs having to build and carry inventory on specialized stuff, but also a high margin area for profits. At least in most industries. I would imagine that diving companies are in a similar situation.

I agree with Lubold, ebay it and get the whole shebang or find a used hanger queen that you could part out...

jwh
 
If you were to buy a car in parts you would spend easily more then 3x the sticker price. Buy the complete second stage and keep the other for a back up, get another 1st stage and make a deco reg
 
GDI:
Buy the complete second stage and keep the other for a back up, get another 1st stage and make a deco reg

Hi Mmcdds,

I've been diving with an Apeks T50D since they came out, and with TX50 /40 since.
IMHO and from my experience of diving under ice in lakes with an air temp (with the chill factor) of 24 deg F and a water temp of 32 to 34 deg ....you still dont need to add the heat exchanger bits (T50D does not have the exchanger)and if the 2nd stage is set at about 1.5"(40mm) of cracking pressure, providing you take care before you submerge ie dont purge a damp reg it works a treat. Keep the venturi to "minus" till the reg is filled with water and stabilised. Only turn the venturi to "plus" when its in the divers mouth and no problem should be seen with free flows.

The radjustment knurled knob on the TX/T50 and above from fully out to fully in makes about 40mm (1.5") change in the cracking pressure so on a 50 you can have 0.75" to 2.25" cracking pressure on tap.

For a Tx40 on an Octopus or secondary reg I would personally go for a setting of 1.75 to 2.0" and then use the venturi lever to boost the flow without promoting a free flow. Any less than 1.0" and as an octo it tends to burp in the current or on sudden movement.

So bottom line set it and leave it you dont need the extra adjustment.
In our club the out-of-air signal is the victim grabs the reg that is in his buddy's mouth and being on a long hose, has his little panic off to the side while you put in your Octo/auto air or second reg on your pony.

As an aside, My main reg is on the 3/8"UNF port and has a 7 foot hose without upsetting the amount of air it gives even at 150 foot....

Cheers and a happy New Year,

Brian C
 
Thanks everyone for your input. I really don't have any major problem with the TX20 as it is, it works fine for me, but I do prefer a diver adjustable 2nd stage, thus my desire to upgrade it. Since I purchased it for practically nothing, I don't really have any desire to spend alot of money on it. It just annoys me when a manufacturer makes it imposible or impractical to buy key parts. Ah well, I guess thats just the way business is done nowadays.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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