Will adding LED increase output? (Newbe)

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

DatSRBoi

Registered
Messages
60
Reaction score
0
Location
DFW Texas
# of dives
I'm a Fish!
Hi I am new at this lighting and electrical stuff so please bare with me. I have a question. Lets say I have a 12 volt battery at xxxAh and one LED module like a Cree (example- DealExtreme: $13.59 Cree XP-G R5 320-Lumen White Light LED Drop-in Module (26.5mm*29.3mm/18V Max) ). From there I add two more of those cree using the same battery. Would that increase the light output or would it still be the same at what ever I am shining it at (ex- that module claims 320 lumens so adding two more makes it 960lumens?) ? I am just using all of these as examples because I want to build my own light but want to see if I can get more lumens out by adding more LED.

Thanks.
 
Yes, with suitable optics to focus the multiple LEDs into one beam.

Some examples here: Cutter Electronics

The XP-E/C are about same dimensions as the XP-G LEDs, looks like they have some for XP-G as well now.

If you use multiple LEDs you'll need a different driver as well though.
 
you won't need a different driver; all you need to do is wire the drivers that come with the module in parallel. you don't need optics either...
 
you won't need a different driver; all you need to do is wire the drivers that come with the module in parallel. you don't need optics either...

I don't get your optics statement. Without optics (lens or reflector) the LEDs give off lots of light but it's not useful as a dive light. It would be like my focus light which has several LEDs that give a diffused light.

Adam
 
I don't get your optics statement. Without optics (lens or reflector) the LEDs give off lots of light but it's not useful as a dive light. It would be like my focus light which has several LEDs that give a diffused light.

Adam

Optic (from my experience) generally is referring to a lens. It may be aspheric or it may be TIR or whatever. I don't usually see it used with reflector.

Since, in this example, we are talking about 3 led/reflector/driver units the reflectors are already there. Marchand was saying (I believe) that additional optics from Cutter weren't necessary (it's a choice not a given).
 
Thank you everyone for the help. I am exited. I am buying 3 Cree Q5 since the one I have seem to be very reliable. I did the SL6 to LED conversion.

My last question I promise. From the site I brought the LED module from it seem as if the volt range is 3.7 to 18v max. I am unsure what my power source will be as of right now since there are so many battery choices. I know every battery has a mAh and from reading around LED modules can only handle so much before they die? I do NOT know what the Q5 Cree mAh maximum handling is but my guess from all the other ones it is 1000mAh (aka 1Ah?). If I am running 3 of them does that mean I have to bump the battery choice up to 3000mAh in parallel to feed the 3 module or will that fry the circuit over time? I am thinking about running a 6v battery (mAh unknown) only which is way under the Cree Q5's limit. I am trying to keep the 3 LED happy with plenty of power to run off of but not overwork and fry them.
 
Thank you everyone for the help. I am exited. I am buying 3 Cree Q5 since the one I have seem to be very reliable. I did the SL6 to LED conversion.

My last question I promise. From the site I brought the LED module from it seem as if the volt range is 3.7 to 18v max. I am unsure what my power source will be as of right now since there are so many battery choices. I know every battery has a mAh and from reading around LED modules can only handle so much before they die? I do NOT know what the Q5 Cree mAh maximum handling is but my guess from all the other ones it is 1000mAh (aka 1Ah?). If I am running 3 of them does that mean I have to bump the battery choice up to 3000mAh in parallel to feed the 3 module or will that fry the circuit over time? I am thinking about running a 6v battery (mAh unknown) only which is way under the Cree Q5's limit. I am trying to keep the 3 LED happy with plenty of power to run off of but not overwork and fry them.

The mA/H rating is just for how long the light will run. The driver for the led can handle input voltage from 3.7V to 18V. Its set up to provide 1000mA to the led. Any batteries in that range will do and will provide the same output...1000mA.

Since you have 3 modules, if you used only one driver you could wire the leds in series and 1000mA would be sufficient for the entire circuit. Using three drivers I'm having a hard time picturing what is going on but as was mentioned earlier I guess by wiring the drivers in parallel that does the trick.
 
Thank you everyone for the help. I am exited. I am buying 3 Cree Q5 since the one I have seem to be very reliable. I did the SL6 to LED conversion.

My last question I promise. From the site I brought the LED module from it seem as if the volt range is 3.7 to 18v max. I am unsure what my power source will be as of right now since there are so many battery choices. I know every battery has a mAh and from reading around LED modules can only handle so much before they die? I do NOT know what the Q5 Cree mAh maximum handling is but my guess from all the other ones it is 1000mAh (aka 1Ah?). If I am running 3 of them does that mean I have to bump the battery choice up to 3000mAh in parallel to feed the 3 module or will that fry the circuit over time? I am thinking about running a 6v battery (mAh unknown) only which is way under the Cree Q5's limit. I am trying to keep the 3 LED happy with plenty of power to run off of but not overwork and fry them.

I recently wrote a post in the flashlight forum as an introduction to modifying flashlights and it does have a section on estimating runtimes based on the LED current draw, efficiency of the driver, and of course the capacity of the battery - this might prove useful:
Introduction to modifying flashlights ... - CandlePowerForums


Now, as others have correctly pointed out, 3x of the modules will give you more output (and a higher current draw from your battery), but it will also give you 3x the heat, both from the LED and from the drivers (drivers are not 100% efficient so some of the battery power goes out as heat!), so keep that in mind since you need to have an effective way to transfer the heat away from the LED/driver otherwise you can literally cook the parts to death.

Will
 
What type of body are you using for the light? Are you making your own or do you have something you're going to modify?

With three Q5's you're looking at about 3.7W for each LED as each LED is spec'd to draw 1A at approx 3.7V.

So that's around 11.1W for the LEDs not including any power lost in the drivers and batts.

Lumen output is spec'd at 225 - 240 or so per LED driven at 1A using their spec sheets. If they added perfectly it'd be around 675 to 720 lumens.

You should get better efficiency, similar or greater output and a better beam with a single MC-E or P7 LED. Less complex as well.

You can get more info on CREE's LEDs here: http://www.cree.com/products/xlamp.asp

Spec sheets can be confusing if you're not familiar with electronics, can gather all the info you need about the LEDs there though.

If it's the XP-G R5's then the specs would be different, about 3.3W each (3.3V @ 1A) and higher lumen output.
 
What type of body are you using for the light? Are you making your own or do you have something you're going to modify?

With three Q5's you're looking at about 3.7W for each LED as each LED is spec'd to draw 1A at approx 3.7V.

So that's around 11.1W for the LEDs not including any power lost in the drivers and batts.

Lumen output is spec'd at 225 - 240 or so per LED driven at 1A using their spec sheets. If they added perfectly it'd be around 675 to 720 lumens.

You should get better efficiency, similar or greater output and a better beam with a single MC-E or P7 LED. Less complex as well.

You can get more info on CREE's LEDs here: CREE | XLamp LEDs, leading the revolution in lighting

Spec sheets can be confusing if you're not familiar with electronics, can gather all the info you need about the LEDs there though.

If it's the XP-G R5's then the specs would be different, about 3.3W each (3.3V @ 1A) and higher lumen output.

I have an old flashlight body that I will be making it shorter in lenth. It is already waterproof but I will modify it to make sure it never leaks. I will run a line out of it to a waterproof battery pack.

I am using 3 cree Q5 since I am use to them and the one I have right now on my SL6 has not failed me yet. I am hoping for 600 lumen plus. I would like to run just one led that can push that much but I am not an electrical genus sadly so finding one with driver and everything built in is so hard to find.

If you have any recommendation please do not hesitate. I am not a pro at lights nor am I making top pay checks a month so buying a can light is out of budget. That is why I am trying to build one with what I know I can get away with. :) . It will not be a sexy light but it will be better then some of the cheap lights out there.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

Back
Top Bottom