Educate me how to use a grappling hook to anchor on a wreck

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While this is off topic, we've dove solo so many times, it's second nature to us. We always have redundant air while diving. Issues underwater should be resolved on your own, that's the way it is supposed to be from day 1, IMO. Buddy systems are sketchy at best. The both of us know how to operate the boat in case one of us gets swept away from the wreck. That is why 1 person stays on the boat while 1 dives.
 
we don't use them here. we use chain with a carribeener on the end. The chain is secured to the end of the line. A diver sits at the stern, chain in hand & ready to roll. The driver uses a bottom finder to place the boat over the wreck, throw it into reverse to stop fwd movement, then neutral & hollers "GO!!!"

Diver then rolls over & heads down as fast as possible. Wrap the chain several times around part of the structure, then loop it & clip off. The purpose of looping it is to ensure that no pressure is placed on the clip, or you may not be able to unchain when the dive is over.

An inshore bridge span tops out about 40FSW, a wreck or span sitting in 105FSW generally has structure starting about 70FSW.
 
we don't use them here. we use chain with a carribeener on the end. The chain is secured to the end of the line. A diver sits at the stern, chain in hand & ready to roll. The driver uses a bottom finder to place the boat over the wreck, throw it into reverse to stop fwd movement, then neutral & hollers "GO!!!"

Diver then rolls over & heads down as fast as possible. Wrap the chain several times around part of the structure, then loop it & clip off. The purpose of looping it is to ensure that no pressure is placed on the clip, or you may not be able to unchain when the dive is over.

An inshore bridge span tops out about 40FSW, a wreck or span sitting in 105FSW generally has structure starting about 70FSW.

OMG. Effective, yes. OP: now you have the leftmost perspective. This would be the airborne/special ops/semper fi way to dive. -gotta love it.
 
That's how the dive charters do it here with a divemaster. They call it "dive bombing" which I mentioned in post #5. A bit too extreme for me. I could do it, but would rather not to.
 
we don't use them here. we use chain with a carribeener on the end. The chain is secured to the end of the line. A diver sits at the stern, chain in hand & ready to roll. The driver uses a bottom finder to place the boat over the wreck, throw it into reverse to stop fwd movement, then neutral & hollers "GO!!!"

Diver then rolls over & heads down as fast as possible. Wrap the chain several times around part of the structure, then loop it & clip off. The purpose of looping it is to ensure that no pressure is placed on the clip, or you may not be able to unchain when the dive is over.


Yep, that's how most of the dive charter boats do it, down in South Florida. It's probably the most effective way to hook into the wreck on the first try, which is important when you have 15 paying customers standing around waiting to jump in the pool! :D Maybe I'll try that next time.


I tried out my new grapple anchor this past weekend, and it worked pretty well. But more times than not, the anchor hit NEAR the wreck, but not right ON the wreck. :idk: Need more practice. I too leave extra chain and a carabiner on the anchor, so the 1st diver down can secure it better.
 
I live in Ft. Lauderdale and dive these wrecks frequently. First, rethink diving alone on the wrecks. Lots of things can go wrong and you have no assistance.
That said, I don't use the shakle to the wreck technique. If something goes wrong and you have to surface before you can unshakle, you have no way to free yourself from the wreck. Now you have to cut your line to get free.
Depending on current, I use a plow anchor and go upstream of the wreck and set my anchor with anchor line lying above the wreck by about 30 feet. That way, my anchor and line do not touch the wreck. I use an anchor pulling ball to get the anchor up.
It that is not possible, I use a mighty mite grapnel type anchor (google "mighty mite anchor" to see what I am talking about). The tines are aluminum and if you hang up in the wreck, you can power out and the tine straightens out and releases you. It is easily bent back. I have never had one pull out just from the strength of the current.
If you want to use the anchors in the picture posted, shackle the chain to the loop on the crown of the anchor (the part with the tines). Next run the chain along the shank to the loop on the top and attach the chain with several wraps of dacron or similar twine. As long as the pull is parallel to the shank, the dacron does not come under stress. But, if the anchor is hung up, you motor above the anchor, take up all slack and give the engine some power. Now the dacron is taking the stress and will break allowing the anchor to pull up from the crown. A second way is to tie a line to the loop on the crown with its own line and buoy. If the anchor hangs up, just motor up to the buoy and pull the anchor up by the crown line.
 
Hans Van Tillburg (maritime history buff-NOAA) basically begged us in his lectures to anchor next to the wreck and not tie/grapple onto it as these techniques can be highly destructive.
 

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