Scubapro MK25

[tbone1004]

if I was charging someone to do them, I'd use one just to follow the rules, but if any of you have changed a hose or did anything with port plugs you're not using a torque wrench when you're supposed to be

 

[triminx145]

Well, many thanks for all the advice guys. Saxplayer, I'm not a total equipment gimp, I just didn't know if extensive modifications would be needed on the inside to take higher pressure.

 

[tbone1004]

it's pretty much unscrew the yoke and screw the DIN in... The actual regulator itself is rated to something like 4500psi or some random number way above normal working pressures of tanks. It's the fitting itself that is only rated for x-psi. The actual yoke isn't designed to withstand the real high pressures, hence why the HP tanks are required to have 300 bar DIN fittings, and the new "high pressure" tanks are rated to 3442. Weird gov't regulations and what not. Nothing past the actual connector on the 1st stage changes though

 

[triminx145]

cool, thanks

 

[halocline]

No need for a torque wrench either. "snug" is a highly technical term used in regulator repair. I snug with my pinky finger. Tight enough so it doesn't spin out but not too tight so it busts metal...

I'm sure you're familiar with the SP recall that resulted from over tightening yoke nuts (and DIN fittings I suspect) on MK20s. I've seen a pretty mangled DIN retainer that was clearly destroyed by over tightening. I've also seen a few yoke retainers come loose because a boat crew lifted a diver's tank out of the water by the regulator. So, evidently, plenty of people are not getting it right, including 'certified' technicians.

Use a torque wrench, it's not a big deal.

 

[tbone1004]

I'm not saying that you shouldn't, and in an ideal world we all would, it's just a lot of times I have been in spots where I don't have one. My big ass torque wrench is certainly not part of my save a dive kit, and the DIN adapter on my 1st stages spun out a few times this summer, mainly because I was screwing Yoke adapters on and off of them all the time. Finger tight worked well enough so I didn't have to call the dive, so that should say something about how tight they actually need to be to seal. I just don't know how you can overtighten these suckers with a normal short allen key. I'm a big, strong dude, and I get em on until you can clearly feel the metal stick, once it's there I'm done. You have to really start wrench the thing on after it sticks

 

[redacted]

.... Just take a normal allen key and snug it. They told us in the repair class that you're supposed to use them, but it's not a big deal if you don't. They are more concerned with them being too tight and mucking up the threads than being not tight enough. Same with the port plugs and hoses, you're supposed to use torque wrenches on those, but I've never seen anyone use one before outside of the official "class".

I'm certified in Apeks, and my service manual says
"20 ft lbs or until it meets the body metal to metal" for the caps
12 ft lbs or until it meets the body metal to metal for the Turret Retaining Bolt and DIN Connector
and 25 +-2 in lbs or until it meets the body metal to metal for the port plugs or male end of hose

That's what we were taught in the repair class as well. If you have access to a torque wrench, great, use it. If not, don't go wrenching stuff down. Our instructor said they put the or until it meets the body bit in because they realize that when you are out diving you probably won't have a torque wrench just laying around for you.

Just to be perfectly clear, are you saying that the instructor in your Apeks technician course told you that it was not necessary to use a torque wrench on a yoke/din retainer

I do my own regs. I always use a torque wrench on the yoke/din retainers and on the swivel (turret) retainer. I have used torque wrenches on port plugs (with both new and used o-rings) to gauge how much to go beyond finger tight. With brass connections, it does not take too much over tightening to cause irreparable damage. And undertightened connections seem to have a way of coming loose at the most inopportune times.

One of the reasons I got into DIY was "professional tech" at local shops who did not have torque wrenches (or much basic mechanical ability). I also avoid tire and auto shops that do not use torque wrenches on lug nuts and spark plugs. Sure, you can usually get away without using one; or you can just screw up the customer's gear.

 

[ScubaSteve]

I have to agree that if I am paying someone to service anything of mine, it had better be done properly and by someone who is capable of operating a torque wrench.

 

[AquaticLung]

agree, dir

 

[Fish-R-Man]

I just don't know how you can overtighten these suckers with a normal short allen key. I'm a big, strong dude, and I get em on until you can clearly feel the metal stick, once it's there I'm done. You have to really start wrench the thing on after it sticks

If you "feel the metal stick" you have over torqued the threads.... That is why they recommend a torque wrench. If you had any kind of lube on those threads (including water), you REALLY over torqued it. Most torque values are calculated using clean dry threads. If you add any kind of lube to it, it will reduce the required torque considerably. It is very easy to overtighten threads even with a short wrench.