Rubber-coated Hard Weights

[mdwalter]

Yeah, here's what I did. I had about 90 lb of hard weights that I picked up (it was not easy ) at a yard sale. I stopped at Home Depot on the way home and picked up a can of spray-on truck bed liner for about $8 or $9. I laid out the weights on some plastic, sprayed them on one side, then waited until dry. I flipped them over and sprayed the other side.

Now they are a nice shiny black with a durable but smoth coating to keep the lead from rubbing off all over the place. Bed liner is not thick like tool dip, so it did not fill up the belt slots too much. They still slide on pretty easily.

The only problem is, I really have no need for weights. I dive double steel 108s with a backplate and 0 lb of lead. Or, when I use my single steel LP 120 and a steel backplate I need maybe 2 to 3 lb of weight. Why the heck would I buy and refurbish 90 lb of hard weights? I don't know. Anyone want to buy some coated hard weights?

 

[jswantek]

I've used the plasti-dip aerosol on my weights and it worked well, but it does chip off after time. Only reason was for asthetic value. I will say, they came out rather nice with two or three light coats.

 

[Steve in Seattle]

The only problem is, I really have no need for weights. I dive double steel 108s with a backplate and 0 lb of lead.

So in an emergency, you dump your whole pack and air supply?

Seriously though... is this intentional? Any thought to strapping a boyancy canister to your pack and a small amount of removable/ditchable weight? Done right it might even make you more "slip streamish"

 

[Steve in Seattle]

I agree with you on the erosion rate between hard lead weight and shot lead. However, everytime I rinse/wash my weights, I notice small lead filings (tiny bits of lead or shavings) left in the tub where I soaked them. It may have a small impact to the environment but the accumulated effect will be significant in the long run.

Forget the environment, think about yourself, your dogs, your family, etc... heavy metals are their most dangerous as particulates. Anyone who's done some grinding will learn this one quick.

After taking a Neuroscience course I'm shocked how little lead it really takes to cause problems (typically in a fetus, baby, or pet... but still an issue). Plastic coat is a way better solution just for the peace of mine IMO.

 

[Cave Diver]

So in an emergency, you dump your whole pack and air supply?

Seriously though... is this intentional? Any thought to strapping a boyancy canister to your pack and a small amount of removable/ditchable weight? Done right it might even make you more "slip streamish"

I'm guessing that someone who is diving double 108's has been taught to solve the problem under water rather than using the "blow and go" method to get to the surface.

With doubles, he has redundant gas supply and as long as there is gas to breathe, solving the problem at depth is likely the best option.

This question opens up an entire can of discussion worms which is better left to another thread.

 

[Steve in Seattle]

There are more reasons than an emergency surface to ditch weights. I realize some prefer to dive their own style; I was just curious what he'd do if he tore his wings or BC bladder... especially if this included an injury making an arm or leg less mobile.

 

[JAXDiver1138]

I know there hasn't been any activity in this thread for over a year, but I just came across it while searching for ideas on how to coat my hard lead weights. Plasti Dip seems to be just the solution I was looking for and after a little more searching on the Net, I came across this informative write-up on Plasti Dip on eBay Guides that I thought I would share with other interested Scuba Board members: eBay Guides - Using Plasti Dip Products.

I also like that there is a choice of different colors since that would allow me to color code by weight (e.g. Orange = 4 lb., Yellow = 3 lb., etc).

In addition to the soft weight environmental and health concerns addressed earlier in this thread, I think hard weights are much easier to deal with when using integrated BC weight pockets.

When I was doing my OW certification, I used a standard weight belt and had to take it off and put it back on again to demonstrate the weight ditch/adjustment skill. Nowadays with BCs with weight-integrated pockets, this skill can be demonstrated by removing and reinserting the weight pockets. My girlfriend discovered it is much easier to insert weight pockets containing hard weights when she's wearing the BC at depth and has to work by feel.

Anyway, hope you find the info at the link above useful.

-Brian

 

[muddiver]

I disagree with an integrated BC being easier to R&R your weights in. Many have clips and very tight fitting pouch pockets that make it almost impossible to get the pouch back in and secured. Add gloves in cold water and forget it, just put a salvage buoy on your weights and crab the line to the surface and pick them up later.

 

[black_sea]

I have experimented with plasti-dip, aka tooldip. Also known as rubber coating, insulation coating, etc. Not the best solution and does wear out quickly in the marine environment in my experience.
A cheaper albeit not necessarily more reliable alternative is plastic roof coating, whatever it is known as in your area. Also known as roof sealant, etc. about 15 usd a bucket, which is very much cheaper and provides a 15 year weather resistant seal. Don't forget about well ventilated area and all that.

 

[DivrBikr]

Would like to put in my two cents... Just a suggestion...

If your weights are clean, "warm" them in the oven where they are no hotter than a warm handful. Not more than 100 degrees F. Seventy-five to ninety degrees is ample.

A vehicle undercoat that can be purchased at pretty much any auto parts store works. 3M makes a good one. It usually comes in aerosol form. The first coat will be the most important one. The warmed weights (insert disclaimer here) should be placed on a suface that you don't care about getting overspray on. Spray one side of each weight and let dry. With the heat it should not take long. Flip and spray the opposite side and any places missed from the first spray. Let this coat dry fully.

Once dry, any additional coats will have the former coats to adhere to. Would suggest at least 3 coats.
When you have finished, if the coating has rough finish, a little sand paper can smooth it out.