Lighting Tips with PowerShot

[milbournosphere]

I've been diving with my Canon point'n'shoot for a while, and it does alright, but I'm hoping to squeeze more out of it.

The camera in question is a PowerShot SD1000, used in Canon's WP-DC13 case. I've got custom firmware loaded on the camera, which enables RAW format shooting, as well as better ISO control, etc. Often times 've gotten results like this (uncorrected for white balance, etc.):



I think it's because I need some kind of lighting; I shoot plenty with my DSLR on land and know the value of good light. The built in flash is kinda useless, at least the way I'm using it. Is an entry level strobe that might fit onto and work with my camera/case, or tips to use the flash in order to prevent backscatter?

 

[dtownsend2000]

I have a similar powershot u/w camera and found I got much better results when I added a slave strobe. If you're looking for an affordable option (under $200) try looking at the intova range of strobes.

 

[milbournosphere]

My camera doesn't have a hotshoe, so I assume I'll have to use an optical TTL setup. I'm still very new to underwater lighting, as my pocketbook quivers in fear at the prices of some of the equipment. If I understand correctly, the flash uses a fiber optic cable to communicate the pre-flash light to the slave, yes? Thanks for answering a newbie's questions. I've searched around and haven't been able to find a crash course on the equipment basics.

 

[dpaustex]

You will need a flash with an optical pickup. Some flashes can account for camera's "pre-flash" (or just turn it off).

SunPak used to make an "all weather flash" (have one that I still use for off-camera slave flash), but don't know if they do anymore. Ikelite makes flashes that will do that, too (check B&H, Reef Photo, Helix, etc). Best part is your new flash will transfer to your new rig (with a sync cord).

Most flash shots are less than 5 feet away (otherwise, backscatter is an issue).

Happy shooting.

 

[James R]

I had an Intova ISS4000 strobe with my Canon P&S cameras and it made a huge difference, for very little money compared to others on the market from Inon, Sea & Sea, etc. There are 4 flash sync settings to select from, and all my Canon cameras used setting 2 - FYI. This flash will work without a sync cord by picking up your camera's pre-flash, which is great. It's also something to keep in mind...other cameras near you can set it off too. I don't think it ever happened to me, though. Good (newer) rechargeable AA batteries usually lasted me a whole day's diving, and I am one of those people that does 5-6 dives a day when on a dive trip.

 

[dtownsend2000]

The slave strobe will make a huge difference. I would recommend purchasing the fibre optic cable and using black tape to seal off any light that may "leak" through as to avoid backscatter. Also, from you photo you posted, it looks like you do some cold water diving. I would also recommend using lithium batteries. They are more expensive but will hold up in the cold and significantly reduce the number of times you need to change out between dives. Happy snapping!

 

[milbournosphere]

Thanks for the tips! Intova's ISS2000 looks to be right up my alley. Mr. Townsend, I hail from San Diego. Warm in August-October, and right now cold, but not cold enough to require a drysuit. I find I have decent enough battery times with the lithium battery that came with the camera, and will be sure to remember that when I pick up batteries for my eventual slave strobe.

Here's another one taken at 70ft...this is primarily the conditions I'll likely be using said slave in...

 

[dtownsend2000]

Then you'll definitely have no problems. Mine hold up well at 100 feet in a cold quarry in Pennsylvania during the winter months. Maybe I should just move south!

 

[Hetland]

The slave strobe will make a huge difference. I would recommend purchasing the fibre optic cable and using black tape to seal off any light that may "leak" through as to avoid backscatter.

+1

This will sound snobby, but don't waste your money on an "entry level" strobe. I have 5-6 friends I told the same thing to, but only one listened, and he's the only one who wasn't disappointed in the long run.

Your camera was obsolete before it ever left the factory, but a quality underwater strobe will last for generations of camera technology. I shoot an Inon D-2000 that I purchased used a few years ago. I can sell it today for what I paid for it. You won't get the same resale out of an entry level strobe. I've also shot the S-2000, and a few models of Sea & Sea strobes. The newer Sea & Seas are very nice, but I would recommend the Inon S-2000, and a 10-bar fiber-optic. The only downside on the S-2000 is the size of the controls. They can be difficult to manage with thick gloves, but in darker water you can usually just set it up and leave it alone. In bright, clear water, you have to take a more hands-on approach (at least I do, but I usually shoot in turbid water).

---------- Post added January 24th, 2013 at 10:12 PM ----------

Here's a shot with a single Inon D-2000. This was in the Gulf of Mexico, at about 90ft iirc.

---------- Post added January 24th, 2013 at 10:17 PM ----------

an this is in clearer water, but a bit deeper (around 120ft) and you can see it's a bit overexposed too.

---------- Post added January 24th, 2013 at 10:28 PM ----------

Anything more than a few feet away will require ambient-light only. The light won't travel far enough underwater, and everything in the water between the lens and the subject will be lighted (backskatter):