Deburring aluminum?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

I worked at one time for a aluminum trailer manufacturer. Depending on how sharp the burrs are sandpaper works the best on small burrs and a file for large ones with sandpaper after you work it down. We would use a air grinder with a sandpaper disk on it.

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 2
 
Thanks again to everyone:
The file, sandpaper, and scotchbrite did the job just fine!

Next question:
I intend to chop off the two ends and make a two piece mini STA out as well.
What tips could you give me regarding making a clean accurate cut?
So far I have been recommended to mark a line with pencil and then use a hack-saw...followed by the same deburring as discussed above.
 
Die grinder with cutting wheel you can get accurate

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 4
 
I cut aluminum on my table saw ..... Just need a carbide blade and safety glasses.... A plain old electric hand saw also works.... Hack-saws blades tend to bind in aluminum as the cuttings don't release from the tooth of the blade.... They make cut-off wheels just for use on aluminum... deburring with a carbine cutting tool or file and finish with silicon carbide on a cloth wet/dry backing.....

Jim....
 
I have fabricated a lot of aluminum stuf both professionally and as a hobby. I have always just filed and/or sanded the edgers to smooth things up and this worked fine, although it always takes a lot of time. I recently bought a lathe with pretty much a full setup of tooling. It came with a large assortment of deburring tools. I had never used an actually tool made for the job before.

This is my personal take on this topic:

Anyone that is too cheap/stupid to get the deburring tool, deserves to have the same extra workload as I subjected myself to for years. I feel like a total tool myself now that I know how fast, easy, and effective the deburring tool is.

Short version - get a deburring tool!
 
Hand saws, table saws, hack saws, etc.. Too much like work. I like the waterjets I have access to. Then just a pass with the deburring tool or automotive sandpaper around a dowel rod.
 
Hand saws, table saws, hack saws, etc.. Too much like work. I like the waterjets I have access to. Then just a pass with the deburring tool or automotive sandpaper around a dowel rod.

I have a bridgeport, lathe, AC/DC Mig and Tig welders, Plasma arc, 50 ton press, sandblast cabinet that will take a big block chevy, overhead 5ton crane, brake and shear and slip roller ..... and Now I need a water-jet cutter like a hole in my head.... And that is what my wife would do if I told her I " NEEDED " more tools for my shop that I play in....:shocked2:

Jim....
 
I second the deburring tool listed above. No reason to mess around with sandpaper or scotch bright.

Jeff
 
Aluminum 6061 corners on my Jeep. Debured with the hook type tool.

P5220642_zps555f99fb.jpg


P8250669_zps6988ccfe.jpg


As an aircraft mechanic at one point in my life, I think I have deburred probably a 1,000 miles of aluminum edge. The simple hook tools work like a charm, polish with Scotch Brite maroon or grey.

When people talk about "marine grade" aluminum they usually mean a 6000 series material. It will form a natural oxidation layer that will resist further corrosion, though not completely or forever.

N
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

Back
Top Bottom