Bratface
Contributor
Save-a-dive kit. Small light so you can look under ledges, etc. Various clips to streamline your gear. Agree strongly with the surface maker. They aren't cheap, get a big, bright one.
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What kind of BCD are you looking to get? Something with integrated weights may well obviate the need for weightbelt, as well as inform what type (soft vs hard weights) as well as shape/size of weights. Also, a BP/W could potentially reduce the amount of weight needed.
Agree strongly with the surface maker. They aren't cheap, get a big, bright one.
Well, at least you got a chuckle for the day. Soft weights have their uses - weight-integrated BCDs, some belts that have pockets designed for soft weight pouches, serving as a 'V weight' equivalent with a backplate / wing, etc. While I may have some minor concerns about possible effects of lead poisoning, sterility is not high on the list. The amount of contact that I have with the actual weights - soft or hard - is minimal. Some pool operators do not allow the use of soft weights, because of concerns that a bag will rupture, and the filtration system will get clogged with lead shot.does anyone have any thoughts on soft vs hard weights? i was at the lds this week and i asked one of the employees where the soft weights were. . . . he mentioned he didnt like them due to poisioning and possibly making you sterile? i asked why is this and he mentioned because the lead is lose i can potentially rub off on your hands.
The material is pretty durable, I recently had a 2 lb soft weight develop a small hole and start 'leaking' lead shot after 11 years of use. None of the other soft weights (1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 8 lb sizes) that I own have shown any such wear.my only concern is the durability of the material the lead is stored in and how it will hold up over time.
sorry forgot to mention, its a weight integrated back inflated BC. i just mention weight belt as something to carry the weights on.
Also ill be adding a titanium knife to the list
That's right. The better the rust resistance of a steel alloy is, the worse are the edge properties. A stainless table knife that doesn't need to hold much of an edge has much better rust resistance than a decent stainless cutting knife.While some things made of stainless steel (e.g.: BCD D-rings) don't seem to rust, in my experience, dive knives do.
Unless by "meticulous" you mean "rinse it down and let it dry like you should with all the equipment", I disagree. Give it a decent rinse, a quick soak and air-dry it, and it'll be fine until you lose it. If you're anal about insignificant rust spots (you're not guaranteed to avoid them), you can apply a thin layer of silicone grease or petroleum jelly once in a while. Any small rust spots coming with a regime like that are just cosmetic flaws and are easily removed using fine steel wool or one of those scrub sponges most of us keep a couple of in the kitchen.Unless you're meticulous with after dive maintenance.
And quite infamous for its poor edge-holding properties as well. Ti is a crappy material for anything that's supposed to be - and stay - sharp.Titanium is a pain in the butt to.sharpen.