Hey guys

[BoostinReptar]

So I was in the market to start getting some gear together. Next year I am getting certified since my wife bought me a gift card to do so. I was wondering if there were certain brands of things to kind of avoid perhaps some brands have better regulators than bcd a or so. Being new I am overwhelmed by the products and can only assume things are better just by the price. I essentially am a mechanic and if you asked me if I thought snap on was the best tool component I could tell you for their chrome products yes but not for certain sockets or whatnot. I have been looking on leisure pro and I saw an inexpensive setup through mares for about $500 . Yes I understand I get what I pay for and eventually I know there is room to upgrade but would buying a starter package like that be ok? I live in Vegas so it would maybe be for diving about once a month or so. I do travel and would maybe bring imagine to only bring the reg auges and mask. Or hey maybe I'm goin about this in a not so smart way, I'm ok for constructive criticism. Thanks

 

[eelnoraa]

Get certified first before spending any money on gears.

 

[diversteve]

Here's the deal with LeisurePro - and I've been satisfied a customer of theirs for years. Their entry-level packages are just that. It's all low-end gear that unless you have severe budget restraints you'll wind up replacing when you find out that it's less than optimal. Most divers will learn in a Jacket-style BCD for example - they're in just about all rental fleets as one size fits all. Most divers later upgrade to either a lot better jacket or something back-inflated - locating the wing behind you helps you trim out much easier when you're actually diving. A jacket by it's inherent design floats you well on the surface but we dive underneath that lol...

Look at the links to the individual components in those packages. Most will talk about durability, ease of service etc. as the lowest end products are often targeted to the rental fleet market. It's good basic gear but you can maybe do better by watching for sales and knowing what you're looking for. Used/demo is also not a bad option in some cases. I bought a $250 1st stage regulator as a backup once - it was a showcase demo for two years. No box but new warranty that started when I registered it. I paid $75 for it. Craigslist is full of people selling gear who thought they were going to be divers also. Sometimes I see stuff that has 4 checkout dives on it but it's used so the price is a lot better. Scuba gear drops 1/2 it's value when you walk out the door with it and 1/2 again when you re-sell it.

Also develop a relationship with a local store. In your case, one of the better online retailers is also based at a store there in Vegas - Online Scuba is a division of a shop there. OnlineScuba.com - Buy Scuba Equipment, Diving & Snorkeling Gear I'd go there and talk to them before you buy anything. LeisurePro used to be a fantastic deal because they bought other shops excess inventory and sold it at a large discount but over the last several years they've become licensed dealers for many of their lines so you will get the exact same price by walking in the door at Online now - except for NV sales tax. (Is there any?) Online sells from low to high end gear also, Cressi, Genesis, Aeris/Oceanic, Tusa, Mares, Aqualung, ScubaPro, Zeagle - any of these will work. Since they sell it, they're also your service dealer. Unless your shop sells it also.

LeisurePro is still one of my go to shops for soft goods since they do have very good prices and fast/free shipping. Another is scubatoys.com in Dallas.

I agree with the above poster. Some people just don't certify. Medical reasons, they can't do skills, claustrophobia - there's a lot of reasons. Any dive shop knows their best chance at selling you a dive package is when you're all excited about getting certified - many make a lot of their revenue then. And don't think for a moment that marketing agreements, sales incentives etc. don't play a role. Many shops purposely outfit their instructors in better gear that the shop sells so when you see it, you want it. So I'd wait till you're certified and almost as importantly decide on the type/location of diving you may want to pursue before making any purchases. Most of us that have been diving for a while have gone through the same process and have closets full of the "perfect" gear that's slowly deteriorating.

Also travel gear is different than cold-water gear. There is some overlap in certain brands/models but travel gear for warm water is going to be lighter weight and have less lift capacity. If you're planning to dive Mead in winter in a 7MM wetsuit you'll need a lot of weight to sink - and a lot more lift capacity vs. if you fly to the Caribbean and dive in a t-shirt. For both, there are options for that also - larger lift gear that's also optimized for travel but trades some other feature - usually a harder vs. softer backpack or durability to get the weight down.

For your basic gear (mask, fins, boots, snorkel) buy it locally. The most important thing about a mask isn't price, features, color or material - it's FIT. A leaking mask can make any diving miserable. More so for you since you'll probably be doing check-outs in Lake Mead unless you travel somewhere else. SoCal is just as cold also. None of them are high margin items so it makes sense to buy them locally. A $15-20 snorkel works as well as a $40 snorkel for what you'll need also. Boots/fins are a personal choice and your shop will explain pros/cons of the various models/styles also. Split-fins are a popular option but don't be fooled by the price - the reason they're more is because the technology is licensed, not because they're necessarily better. (I have them) Paddle fins are actually a better option if you plan to do any sort of diving that might require backing up or diving in siltable conditions - splitfins are bad for either.

 

[razorbackdiver]

I agree with the above posters. Diving is a gear intensive hobby( read that as expensive). Three years ago shortly after getting certified I bought a discounted closeout kit(BC, regulators, and computer) for $650, just because of the price. I've since replace every piece of it. Not because it wasn't any good I just found different gear I preferred to dive with. Take your time and figure what you really want the first time, it's cheaper in the long run.

 

[industrious95]

I would buy as little as possible until the class. I don't know what your class equipment requirements are, but the shop you train through will probably have gear for you to use, either included or rented at additional cost.

I would recommend rental equipment for at least a couple of dives AFTER you get certified. Then, you're not task loaded with the class and you can have a chance to see what's comfortable, what you like, and what other people on your dive boat are using and ask them questions.

But, you'll probably do what I did and buy that first kit because you're so excited about diving.

And then have it sitting in the basement collecting dust as you spend a small fortune upgrading each piece individually.

Enjoy!

 

[boulderjohn]

1. If you buy good quality equipment, you will no doubt be amazed at long it will last. the mask I use primarily is 15 years old, and has been used well over 2,000 times, counting instructional sessions. If you buy something right away as "beginner gear," you will be kicking yourself shortly after when you want to get better gear.

2. Some people might tell you that certain gear is for more advanced divers. The truth is that there is no gear that cannot be used by beginners just as easily as by advanced divers. In fact, some "advanced" gear is easier for a beginner diver to dive in than supposed "beginner" gear.

3. Lots of bells and whistles and features do not make something better. If you don't need a bell or whistle, don't buy one.

4. Price is not necessarily a good indicator of quality. I am perfectly happy with the regulators I use, and I use them for some pretty advanced diving. Their full retail price is half what some other regulators cost. I use what I think is the best computer on the market. I could have paid more than twice as much for another brand.

Put all that together, and you will see that you may make decisions you regret if you act too hastily. Take your time and figure out what you want. Make good decisions, and you will be happy with them for many years.

 

[Scubatude]

Hi there. Welcome to the board!

You have been given some good advise already. I have customers and students in your area. My students who have taken my advise, which is similar to everyone above, are still diving the same high quality gear they purchased early on and are quite happy. Other customers have come to me for more advanced training or after buying their "first gear", and ended up wanting to move up to the higher quality gear. In scuba diving, you just don't know what you don't know. Making these decisions is very tough without becoming a diver first and learning or having a good mentor.

Feel free to contact me if I cab help you in any way.

 

[DiversSupplyPDC]

Must agree with all above. Get good Mask, Fins, Snorkel and Booties for your Cert Class. Use the gear provided and use SB as a sounding board. Use what you read with a tablespoon of salt.

Do Not try to become a Tech Diver over-night. Take your time acquiring gear. Stay away from Craigs List, better to use the for sale section here on SB But BUYER BEWARE in any case.

Gotta Like Scubatude's comment " In scuba diving, you just don't know, what you don't know ". Can't say it much better than that !

 

[Bob DBF]

Good advise above. My suggestion is to read and talk to local divers and find out what will be useful to you and how you will be diving. Pick up mask, fins, boots, snorkel, and possibly thermal protection so you can practice snorkeling and freediving to give you experience in the water with that gear before you start SCUBA. Having good water skills will help, even if it is just hitting the local pool without gear, to swim on a regular basis.

Do good research and you only buy once, or don't get hurt if you buy serviceable now, then buy up later.


Good Luck

Bob

 

[freewillie]

Welcome to the addiction that is scuba. Not only is the sport itself addictive, the constant need to feed the gear junkie drives us all as well.

As a beginner it's hard to know what you don't know. That is you will probably train in a jacket BC but most divers eventually evolve to back inflate BC. A lot of divers here on Scubaboard also are adamant that a back plate with wings is the best choice. While the benefits of a B/W style configuration has many advantages it is by no means the best way to go. The "best" way is to configure a set up that fits you personally. Unfortunately without much experience you don't have much to add at the present.

But, here's a few points to start with. Much good advice already in regards to mask, fins, gear, etc. Online v. LDS.

Vacation v. Local diving. I would look for a lightweight travel BC. Should pack or fold easily. May not have as many "features" like pocket or D-rings but in reality you don't really need that many anyways. You can also find lots of brands that offer enough lift for local cold water diving that way you have the best of both features. Something you can take of vacation but still use with thick wetsuit and lots of lead. My BC is a ZEagle Stiletto. Weighs just about 7 lbs. dry which is close to most travel BC's but has almost 40 lbs. lift which is more than enough for full cold water 7 mm wetsuit, hood, gloves, and booties. And has enough pockets and D-rings for my gear. My daughter has a Travel Lite BC which is essentially a plastic back plate with wing set up. She only has pockets for weights and 2 D-rings. But she only attaches a flashlight and doesn't put anything in her pockets so it's just fine.

Entry level v. high end regulator. Here it's not as important to spend a whole lot of money. You can find many good regulators in the $350 to $500 range. Brand name is also not as important. Popular ones tend to be Atomic, Scubapro, Apex, and Aqualung. Other very good brands are Zeagle, Subgear, Mares, Cressi. All of those brands have more than adequate regulators at the entry level price. What starts to distinguish higher end regulators are the metals used in the components. Titanium is preferred because it is very strong, light weight, and very resistant to corrosion. But it is very expensive. I have an Atomic T3 regulator. I like it because it is light weight and I do a lot of vacation diving. In all honesty the Atomic Z3 breaths just as well and is a third of the price. But is much heavier. (At least that's what I told my wife, I needed the lighter reg for vacation!)

Computers are also going to be mostly personal preference. Even entry level ones should be able to do Nitrox or multiple gas mixes. Wrist or console is personal. Also air integrated or wireless AI will also be personal preference. At the very minimum you want a computer that will tell you depth, time underwater, temperature, and nitrogen loading over multiple dives. I'm still diving an entry level wrist Aeris XR 1 with SPG for gas. Spent all my money on that fancy reg and haven't yet saved up enough to get a new one. Don't actually need one for that matter but that is part of the addition of scuba gear - I just really want those extra features!

I take all of my gear on vacation so I prefer the lighter weight travel friendly gear. The variations tend to be the exposure gear. Hawaii and parts of the Caribbean are okay with a 3 mm. Other parts of the Caribbean you don't even need the wetsuit. I like packing in a scuba bag as well because you do need something to carry the gear from the hotel to the boat/dive site. Most of the time we use airline credit cards so we don't have to worry about baggage fees either.

One other tip, figure out what your local dive shop carries. You might also then ask if they will match the internet price. If you buy, say, an Atomic regulator on line but the only LDS in town is a Scubapro shop then you can't get your gear serviced there. You would have to make arrangements to mail the gear back to Atomic to get serviced. Now, in the case of Atomic, you may only have to do this every 2-3 years but it also means you can't just pop over to the LDS if something happens in the mean time. So in an ideal situation your LDS should be able to service any brand you purchased online.