Dive comp opinion

[stuartv]

The few times I dived with a full 2 or 3 gauge console, I didn't like it at all. I couldn't find a good way to stow it neatly that also allowed easy access to see all the gauges. Sticking it in the cummerbund of the BC jacket kept it from flopping around everywhere but was a PITA when you needed to remove and re-stow it. I tried putting a bolt snap on it and attaching it to a D ring on a jacket BC as well as BP/W rig but even then it dangled too much and always seemed to get in the way.

I put a bolt snap on mine and clip it to my left side waist D-ring - the same spot the SPG would go in a DIR rig, I believe. For me, it's the backup to my wrist computer with AI, so I don't check the console as often as if it was my only computer and SPG. But, clipped to the waist, it does not dangle or get in the way. And reaching down to unclip, check it, and re-clip it is almost second nature at this point. It has been my only compass, so I have used it for that. And I typically check it at least 2 or 3 times during every dive anyway just to compare all the numbers against my wrist computer numbers to ensure I don't have anything weird going on.

 

[uncfnp]

Johnbone. As you can see, choice of dive gear is a very personal decision. What meets one divers needs does not another.

From what you have said and if money is a factor. Just buy the cheapest DC that meets your current dive needs (assuming vision is not an issue). I dove for nearly five years with a computer that had no bells or whistles. In fact, not even any audible alarms and I loved that feature. It's all any recreational diver needs. Anything beyond time, depth and NDL is extra.

Then if you do progress in your diving and have the funds, look around and buy your dream DC. By then you will have a better idea what features are important to you. For me it was the Petrel. Can I do the same dives without it? Of course but I love the features it gives me and the ease of use.

As to wrist or console. Again, I've dove both. Both work. I found using a console mounted compass difficult but it's true that lobstering can be tough on a wrist mount. Also keep in mind that if you choose console, at least some can be converted to wrist.

 

[DiveNav]

Ok, here us another can if worms: wrist or console ....

hud. .

Tablet

 

[dmaziuk]

Tablet

OK, how about a wacom tablet you can use as a slate and as the user interface to your HUD? With a tank-mounted CPU that includes all the navigational IMUs? And doubles as a trim weight? A GPS receiver on the drag-flag is optional extra?

 

[flots am]

Nope.

Do you think the data that came from the hyperbaric chamber dive simulations is not valid in some way?

The results are probably valid, however the differences aren't especially large or significant and I would have no concerns about being either bent or having my dive cut short no matter which one I bought.

It's decompression, not precision machining. There's more variation in human physiology from day to day than there is between the various algorithms.

They're all safe enough if you dive them as designed and they're all dangerous if you don't.

flots.

 

[buddhasummer]

Having the computer on your wrist makes it easier to read. However, you still need to check your Submersible Pressure Gauge ( SPG ).

Some divers find it easier to have everything in one place, they prefer the console option. The gauges that I would recommend in a console would be a SPG, dive computer & a compass.

I believe the easiest, most reliable & best way is a hoseless air integrated dive computer with all your info including a compass on your wrist.

It is really a matter of personal preference. Realize you can always change from a console to wrist or visa vera. Even if you go hoseless in the future you can still use your SPG for redundancy.

If you think you are leaning towards more advanced diving, then I would start with a brass SPG & an inexpensive wrist dive computer.

I don't check my SPG anywhere near as often as I check my computer. YMMV.

---------- Post added August 27th, 2015 at 09:16 PM ----------

It also should be noted that, in general, the warranty on a computer only applies to the original purchaser. So, buying used means no warranty. For that reason, I personally would only buy a used computer if it was a REALLY good price compared to new. And I say that fully acknowledging that I have a used computer for sale in Classifieds and would caution anybody that asks me about buying it that the warranty does not transfer.

---------- Post added August 27th, 2015 at 10:41 AM ----------




Why does the backup computer need to be the same algorithm? Isn't it really the case that the backup computer just needs to be as liberal or more liberal? Alternatively, the backup computer just needs to have Gauge mode and it doesn't matter what algorithm it has?

Also, what agency or agencies are telling people they need (I'm inferring from "they want you to have") a backup computer (versus just telling people it's a good idea - which it is)?

A Petrel will give you the Buhlmann algorithm with Gradient Factors. A common GF setting seems to be 30/85. When I check Recreational dive plans using Multi-Deco, calculating using Buhlmann 16C w/GF30/85, the results are more conservative than what my Atom 3.0 computer produces, using the Oceanic implementation of the DSAT algorithm.

So, I don't see where there would be any problem using a Petrel and having my Atom as a backup. I.e. no requirement to have the backup use the same algorithm. It just needs to be more liberal. Otherwise, it needs to just operate in Gauge mode, which definitely is not as nice as, then, your "backup" still requires you to use tables. If I were using a Petrel for Recreational dives and it failed, I would have no problem continuing to dive using my Atom and still without having to fall back on tables.

As for readability, I'm old and my eyesight is starting to suck. I did ante up for masks with gauge reader lenses in them. I regularly dive in my local quarry where the visibility is often less than 5'. It's not unusual to be 2 - 3'. So far, I have never had any trouble reading my Atom. A big color display would be "neat", but I'm still waiting for that dive experience where I feel like I can't do what I want to do because my plain old black and white LCD display (with backlight) isn't readable enough. But, I have been diving less than a year and have less than 50 dives, so maybe the relatively few low-viz dives I've done so far just aren't very representative.

I hear you. My dive site is often dark with limited viz and with dying eyes I needed a color computer. I wish the Petrel 2 was out when I was looking for a new colour computer as I now have great difficulty reading my compass, a colour compass I'm sure would make my life easier. Maybe should consider trading up. Anyone want a Petrel with around 150 dives and no noticeable scratches etc? Slightly off topic but how do folks find the Petrel 2 compass?

 

[uncfnp]

Slightly off topic but how do folks find the Petrel 2 compass?

Absolutely love it. There is the original secondary screen with compass but with the latest firmware update there is now a mini compass that can be set to display on the main screen. A quick glance down and I have North glowing red. All I needed for my last dive trip. Didn't even pull up the larger compass at all.

 

[buddhasummer]

Absolutely love it. There is the original secondary screen with compass but with the latest firmware update there is now a mini compass that can be set to display on the main screen. A quick glance down and I have North glowing red. All I needed for my last dive trip. Didn't even pull up the larger compass at all.

Oh no, your post is going to cost me money...

 

[guyharrisonphoto]

When I looked at the Petrel II, my thought was that it was the best compass display I had ever seen, but setting a bearing was not so easy, as it required several button pushes that were not very intuitive. However, that would not have been a deal-breaker by any means as to the compass, but it is something where there is room for improvement.

 

[ams511]

hud.

---------- Post added August 27th, 2015 at 12:07 PM ----------

If he has to buy a depth gauge and a bottom timer, they could easily cost the same $200 as a basic DC (or more).

Depth gauges are fairly cheap ($50 new, less used) and for a timer he could use a $40 G-shock watch. He may want the watch anyway so we are just talking about a depth gauge which he could fleabay after he purchases what he wants.