Corrosion First stage inlet filter.

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I have had regulators before that have looked a lot worse than that prior to going for servicing. Especially the one I used when I first started diving and had serviced on a yearly basis.
Speaking today to a few of the old salts, that have been diving for 30 years was interesting. They say that most rental regulators look a lot worse before being serviced, and that a high percentage of divers have regs that look similar. They also believe that it is impossible for a small amount of water not to get into a reg.
I have removed the filter and all hoses. There is no sign of corrosion anywhere else on the hose connectors or in the reg as I can see. Admittedly I can only look through the ports and inlet.
Guess I will use and service when due, or any performance issue is noted. Thanks for the replies and insight.


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---------- Post added January 10th, 2016 at 05:43 PM ----------

Just an update. I have removed the filter. A bit tricky with the circlip. The other side of the filter is corrosion free, so there is no water in the reg. I will do the vinegar soak for a day and see the results.

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Only the filter gets soaked. Not the regulator.

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---------- Post added January 10th, 2016 at 11:49 PM ----------

I have had regulators before that have looked a lot worse than that prior to going for servicing. Especially the one I used when I first started diving and had serviced on a yearly basis.
Speaking today to a few of the old salts, that have been diving for 30 years was interesting. They say that most rental regulators look a lot worse before being serviced, and that a high percentage of divers have regs that look similar. They also believe that it is impossible for a small amount of water not to get into a reg.
I have removed the filter and all hoses. There is no sign of corrosion anywhere else on the hose connectors or in the reg as I can see. Admittedly I can only look through the ports and inlet.
Guess I will use and service when due, or any performance issue is noted. Thanks for the replies and insight.


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---------- Post added January 10th, 2016 at 05:43 PM ----------

Just an update. I have removed the filter. A bit tricky with the circlip. The other side of the filter is corrosion free, so there is no water in the reg. I will do the vinegar soak for a day and see the results.

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The back was corrosion free and a few hours in white vinegar seems to be showing results.
b13da33fe969389253c36c3c4e86c5f3.jpg

b53c349c6878b1a92b0b4ec91dcc04be.jpg


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I'd still replace it at my earliest convenience. Its like the sintered bronze filter in the old Chevy carbs, when they clog and leave you stranded, you can clean them and get them to work but since you can't get everything out, they clog easier next time around.


Bob
 
If you have easy access to a new filter, you could put one in, but I've cleaned them before when necessary and it works fine. To me, the earlier photos of your filter didn't look too bad; that amount of verdigris could have easily come from one wet connection. It really only takes a few drops to get some green.

If the reg is working fine and you only have 30 dives on it since the last service, I wouldn't bother getting it serviced.
 
Since they are brass would not a brass cleaner be effective? Or is that basically the same as vinegar?
 
If you have easy access to a new filter, you could put one in, but I've cleaned them before when necessary and it works fine. To me, the earlier photos of your filter didn't look too bad; that amount of verdigris could have easily come from one wet connection. It really only takes a few drops to get some green.

If the reg is working fine and you only have 30 dives on it since the last service, I wouldn't bother getting it serviced.
That's along the lines of what I initially thought. Been soaking in vinegar and is looking fine. Will rinse, dry an insert. Thanks.

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---------- Post added January 11th, 2016 at 11:53 AM ----------

Since they are brass would not a brass cleaner be effective? Or is that basically the same as vinegar?
I would think brass cleaner would totally destroy block the filter. You need something mildly acidic.

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---------- Post added January 11th, 2016 at 01:44 PM ----------

a3be5be902184354a9696c93dbf26a30.jpg


After a vinegar bath.

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The filter is sintered brass. It does not corrode but it will develop verdigris if exposed to even very small amounts of salt water. This is not a specific design feature.

The most likely culprit is salt water lying in the cylinder outlet being blown into the filter when the regulator is coupled and the cylinder turned on.

There won't be corrosion inside the regulator because the internal components are chromed brass or synthetic rubber. However, salt water will combine with lubricants to make them less effective and the salt crystals will wear out o rings and seats and possibly even prevent correct seals being made.

Most of the water in a serious first stage flood will simply blow through the regulator the next time it is used but salt water will leave a residue that can cause the problems I mention.

I'd remove all the hoses and look inside the first stage for signs of water or salt water residue. If there aren't any then the chances are the filter just took a little sea water and the interior will be fine until the next annual service. If there is water or residue then a service now would be a good idea.
 
I have checked with the Mares agent here. They have said cleaning the filter as I did is okay, but just keep an eye on performance. I have taken off all the hoses and there is no sign of salt water. I have looked into it from other guys and cleaning a filter is fine. It is simple to remove and insert again with a circlip. The circlip gets a bit bent in the removal even if careful, but is just there to prevent the filter from falling out. One or two scratches on the filter though. I have pressured it up and it is working fine. I do not think it is a major issue to clean in between service cycles.

Finished job.

311b475b564ec55d401eb275ce878cc6.jpg




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https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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