Flooded First Stage

[Couv]

Could you please explain in details how to vent the first stage attached to a bottle?

Not a stupid question at all-this question turns up often in this forum, so it occurs more often than one would think. Fortunately, piston regulators are very forgiving when it comes to water intrusion-especially clean fresh water.

Use gravity and pressure to your advantage. With your MK 25 attached to the tank with the low pressure ports down, the spg and second stages removed, plug all the ports except one hp port. A couple of easy, short bust of air through that port is all you need before plugging it and moving on to the other hp port where you will repeat the process. After you've cleared the hp section, move down to the lp ports each in their turn, in any order, except leave the end cap port for last.

You'll probably want to dry out your SPG hose by removing the gage and spool from the fitting and blow air through the bare hose after the above procedure.

Long purges of the second stages are all that are required.

Finish by leaving all the ports unplugged and allow to air dry before storing.

Couv

 

[halocline]

Couv's procedure for blowing water out first the HP ports and then the LP ports is excellent.

If you bought this regulator new, it's pretty disappointing that the dust cap included was not threaded, just one of the soft rubber caps. But, that's life...get a delrin one and you'll have no more problems soaking your reg.

 

[Shotmaster]

If you air it up, make sure you remove your high pressure gage first and make sure it is dry, you don't want to blow water in there. Then Crack the valve and let some air flow, at the same time purge your secondary, once you don't see any water mist or vapor, you should be able to reconnect your HP line. I soak mine in the pool, connected to the tank. I wash everything with fresh water to remove debris, sand, and then throw all my gear in the pool. The natural equalization neutralizes any salt. Then a fresh water rinse down before air drying. I have never had a smelly wetsuit either. The low level chlorine (3ppm) disinfects everything. No chance of water intrusion that way either.

 

[nikolay_zhelev]

Dear couv,

Thanks for the detailed explanation!

Due to the fact, that I'm not a native english speaker I would like to confirm the procedure one more time before attempting to do it. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

1. Get a scuba cylinder and make sure the tank valve is closed.
2. Remove all hoses from the first stage regulator.
3. Connect the first stage regulator to the cylinder.
4. Screw in all plugs except one HP port (in this step all ports are blocked with the original caps, except one HP port).
5. Couple short bursts to blow the opened HP port.
6. Make sure the tank valve is closed.
7. Screw in the vented HP port and open the other one.
8. Couple short bursts to blow the opened HP port (after this step the HP section should be moist free).
9. Make sure the tank valve is closed.
10. Plug all HP ports by screwing the original plugs.
11. Open one IP port at a time and perform short bursts with the tank valve to clean the IP section.

Lastly, which port you call the end cap port, because this confused me?

Looking forward to hearing from you.

 

[Couv]

Hi Nick,

Your English is excellent and you have the procedure exactly right. There are 5 low pressure ports on the MK20/25. 4 around the perimeter of the turret and 1 on the very end. (BTW: I improperly referred to the swivel/turret as the cap....it is not) At any rate, the lp port on the very bottom is directly in line with the air exiting the piston and will also be at the lowest point in the low pressure chamber of the first stage. That is why it should be the last port to clear.

 

[nikolay_zhelev]

Thanks for all advises guys!

Enjoy your day.

 

[KevinNM]

This may be extremely noisy. So take appropriate precautions.

 

[nikolay_zhelev]

Good point!

Thanks!

 

[nikolay_zhelev]

Hi guys,

Today I flushed the system with dry air from a scuba tank and now it's OK I believe.

I would like to point out couple of things from my experience:

1. Before the flushing procedure, the regulator system was disassembled, left to dry for 4 days and even after that water came out of the hoses, so don't think drying the system will do the job. You have to flush it too.
2. If you want to flush the BCD/Dry Suit hoses, keep in mind that you need to press the valve on the hose in order to allow the air to escape. I used my allen key to press the small pin in the BCD hose in order to open the valve and flush the hose.
3. Make sure you flush the equipment in the following order: 1. Every port on first stage (from HP to LP). Always leave one port open, because if you don't you'll pressurise the first stage and you won't be able to open the other ports. 2. Every hose attached to the first stage (flush the hoses one by one, just the hoses, no equipment attached to them). 3. Attach second stage to it's hose and purge it. 4. Remove the second stage and attach the octopus to it's hose and purge it. 4. Remove the octopus and flush all BCD/Dry Suit hoses. 5. Leave all equipment disassembled and let it dry for another day or two.

I hope this topic will help others in my situation.

Good luck to all of you and thanks for the support!

 

[Agility]

get yourself a Apeks dust cap, it is waterproof and holds a spare o-ring as a goodie.
If you were diving salt water and only noticed after a whole week I would let someone have a look inside.
If it was fresh water you should be fine after blowing all the water out.