Am I going to die? BCD repair

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When I bought it back in 2004 it was widely reported as being one of the best stab jackets in the UK at the time. The construction is rock solid and the team at AP are amazing.

I've been contemplating going to a BP/W but I've got a new found love for my Commando TD :)
 
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A small leak in a BCD will never kill anybody.


A BCD makes life easier and safer when diving but they have not been used in the beginning.

I dived 15 years ago with an old diver in the carribean. He did not use a BCD. Kind of odd, I know. He just dived with almost no lead and grabbing a stone from the sea bed when he was getting too light at the end of the dive.

However, I convinced him to buy one because he wanted to dive a wreck with me in Martinique that is some 170 feet deep. It is more for MYSELF, that I felt he needed a BCD. :wink:
 
Yeah I was a little worried about using specific lubes like wheel bearing grease or wd40 as I didn't know what effect they'd have on the materials in the BCD. Thought canola oil was the least likely to do any damage.

Just checked the BCD again and it's still fully inflated. I think it's fair to say it's back and 100% ready to use.

If you search in the web the WD40 formula, you will see that the main components of it are fish oil. It is completelly harmless for the skin, so it would do no harm to your BCD.
Dunk the entire assembly in a tub of water to find your leaks. Alternatively, use a paintbrush and soapy water over all the suspect areas.

Obviously you've figured it out by now, but for others following-here is a "how to" video on installing the hardware in question:


That is the DGX BCD valve spare. It can be used for those blades with that type of valves.
Generally BCDs are built with flange valves that are RF welded to the blade. The flange will fail in the flange next to the thread, so, that DGX valve spare will be of no use unless some modifications are done to it, using plastic flanges glued with some cyanacrylate glue and some machining.
The main problem is that the rest of the original flange will be hardly welded to the blader and very difficult to remove.
 
Generally BCDs are built with flange valves that are RF welded to the bladder.

Correct Em-and exactly why I try to avoid purchasing BCs or wings that I cannot easily remove, repair, and reinstall the bladder and the components.
 
Does anyone know how to remove the grommets on the pre 2007 commandos?
I don't want to force anything when I don't even know how they come apart.
Is it just a case of grip em with something and turn or what?

I emailed AP...and I love those folks...but they're not getting back to me very quickly so I thought I'd try here.

Cheers
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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