Scuba Gear for the Photographer

[Deus Imagery]

Hi

I'm a land based photographer new to scuba diving and new to underwater photography.
Following the few dives that I've completed including most recently a couple on the Great Barrier Reef where I hired a small Panasonic Lumix compact setup to have a try before committing to a setup for my DSLR I've decided I'm addicted and want to invest time and money in learning this part of the art form.

My question though is in regards to BCD's, Regs and Computers... What setups are most photographers using and why?

I dont want to invest in gear that wont suit application with photography. I intend on doing some wreck diving and also chasing crays in the summer so need to keep that in mind.

What setup should I consider that will give me a good control over buoyancy and holding a stable position for periods of time yet will also give some flexibility. Keeping in mind I'll likely travel with the BCD regs and computer I dont want a setup too bulky or heavy.

Appreciate any feedback that everyone can provide.

Regards
Phil

 

[outofofficebrb]

If you already have gear I wouldn’t go out of your way to change anything. Otherwise, picking a regulator that has smaller exhaust bubbles or directs them away from your face in a more favorable way may be better for your view and the fishes not being scared as much so you can approach closer. I know apeks regs have changeable exhaust tees for this. Having a dive computer that doesn’t require you to press a button for backlighting or moving it in front of a video light during night dives to see what’s on it is much more convenient while leaving your hands free to handle your camera rig.

Having an SPG easily accessible clipped off to chest d ring may be helpful for quick checks and having AI (air integration on computer! may be helpful for at a glance.

 

[northernone]

Depending on your subject and style a double hose regulator (or rebreather) is a significant improvement.

 

[JamesBon92007]

I attribute bubbles to missing out on getting better shots recently of two nurse sharks and two huge eagle rays. If you can't have no bubbles, then I'm with northernone on the double-hose.

Edit: Also, I like a BC with either big, very secure pockets that will hold my camera and some D-Rings that I can clip my camera onto quickly and easily if suddenly I need both hands free. Personally I prefer a minimal back-wing in general, for many reasons.

 

[herman]

A point to consider, the type BC has nothing to do with great buoyancy, that is up to the diver. I dive a wide variety of BCs and many times no BC at all ( which is my preferred choice) and I can easily maintain prefect buoyancy with any of them .

There is little difference between regs as far as a photographer is concerned unless you chose a double hose or rebreather. The rebreather is a lot more complicated and def not for the new diver, a double hose moves the bubbles away from the divers face reducing the possibility of getting them into the shot and they tend to be less intrusive to fish. Double hoses and rebreathers have a big advantage for videographers because they keep bubbles out of the frame.

 

[MaxBottomtime]

Most of my photo subjects are small and usually tucked into tiny spaces on the reef. Having a backplate, wing and simple harness eliminates the bulky pockets, cumberbund, chest straps and weight pockets many BCDs have. Having room to manipulate my housing is the only way I am able to get in tight for many shots.
Stiff fins such as Jet Fins allows me to back away from a subject after getting the shot without pushing off the reef or stirring up visibility behind me they way softer, split fins do.
My drysuit is probably the most helpful piece of gear. I often remain in the same spot for a long time, waiting for my subject to move into a better position or trying to capture its natural movements.

 

[Deus Imagery]

I currently only have my 7mm Cressi Facile wetsuit bought for SW Australian conditions and my old mask, snorkel and fin set which are quite soft, having stiffer fins sound like they have some advantages. I like the look of the Scubapro Seawing Nova as a future investment for better control and less effect on stirring up seabed. So otherwise I'm a blank slate at the moment.

I like the idea of an AI Computer on the wrist so I can see all information whilst not needing to remove hands from camera rig so appreciate the advice on that. I would likely still look at getting an analog SPG as a backup as read that sometimes the AI setups do have issues.

My camera rig will be quite large so the pockets wont help but the D-rings are a definite must for clipping off etc. though pockets are handy for other things that may be required, torches, knife etc. Do you prefer integrated weights or use a belt given you use a minimalist BCD?

One thing I did notice with the little cam I hired was that i was conscious of the bubbles and trying to hold out in front to get clear shots but meant i couldn't check focus basically pointing and shooting and hoping haha... so thats a great point regarding the double hose setup. I'll look more into that for sure.

So is the general consensus that a wing setup is most beneficial to a photographer if sitting on bottom but if you are looking at more wide angled shots and some bottom work for macro then a regular BC is probably better. Does a wing setup make for more difficulty on surface?

I understand the buoyancy control is more a factor of breathing regulation and hence I'm wanting to master that as soon as possible. Its incredible how much of a difference breathing correctly seems to make and I have a long way to go with that haha...

Thanks everyone for the assistance. All great advice to consider before investing thousands more. And more importantly ensuring you get every op to get a better shot.

 

[Jim Lapenta]

I began shooting my DSLR underwater a little over two years ago. Here's what I discovered. Depending on the location and subjects I prefer a back plate and wing or sidemount. With a DSLR pockets and lots of d rings are unnecessary and a distraction because everything is on your rig. You don't need pockets to put stuff. As for D rings, I never really need more than 4 anyway on the harness. The crotch strap does have one front and back. But for the camera, I only ever use two and only one is actually needed.
I have a leash on my rig made from nylon rope with a bolt snap and a loop that I can pass through the handle tray slot to secure it to the camera. It gets clipped off to the right chest d ring when I'm shooting just to keep the thing attached to me. When I'm getting out or on deco I move it to the front crotch strap d ring to keep it out of the way. My rig is slightly positive so it remains more or less in front of me.
I use a standard reg set up and so far have not found with the subjects I shoot bubbles to be a problem. A little point and shoot would be because it's so close to your face.
A full size DSLR in a housing? Not as much of a problem. It can be depending on current and where you are in relation to your exhaust but hasn't been an issue to this point.
I shoot a Canon SL1 in an Ikelite housing with dual DS51 strobes and ultralight arms. I have a pair of video lights also coming off the lower arm sections that are attached via plastic ball flex arms.
It's not as big or elaborate as many of the ones the pros are using but it gets the job done and it's not a compact rig by any means for a recreational shooter.

 

[herman]

If you decide to look into a double hose, you have 2 routes, restore and update an old reg (1960s) or the Vintage Double Hose Argonaut Kraken (AK) which is a modern version of the older 50's-60's regs. Aqualung produced a double hose in the early 2000s, a few are still around but they were poorly designed and those of us who dive DH regs consider it a very poor choice.

Here is Jonathan Birds take on the DH reg. In this vid he is describing an updated old reg which he was using before the AK was on the market, he now dives the Argonaut Kraken.

More info on upgrading an old reg or the AK Home | Vintage Double Hose

 

[Jim Lapenta]

The wing set up does not cause issues at the surface. Poor technique and improper weighting does that. A regular BC offers no benefits to the photographer unless you consider added bulk a benefit.

A BPW will fit you the same every time once you set it up. It's modular so it can pack smaller and you can tailor the fit and features to you. Position things where you want them. Not where a mfg thinks they should be.
In the long run it's less expensive because you only replace items that may wear out. Not the whole thing. I have one set up I need to replace the webbing on. It's 12 years old and has some wear in spots I want to address. That will cost me all of 12 US dollars to do.