LUMIX LX10

[Scubanoobi]

This is a long shot, but I'm wondering if anyone has tried this camera in the Nauticam housing with an Inon UWL-H100 wide angle lens, and could share their experience. Even better if someone has used this housing with a Fisheye FiX ADF-M67Pro adapter ring and Inon's UWL-H100 28LD bayonet-mount lens. Does the wet len's glass get close enough to the port to allow for best use of the wet lens?

I have the Nauticam with UWL-h100 m67, results are good, however I just noticed that the back of the uwl-h100 actually touches the front element of the housing. I tried moving it back a bit but it impacts sharpness, especially at the corners. It's leaving some marks on the font element but they are on the outside of the image circle so I'm not too worried. I do have to unscrew it a bit to let water in after the dive starts. I think I'll leave it as is.

 

[choiahoy]

Here’s another video I shot with the LX10 in a Nauticam housing -

 

[ponomo1]

really nice stuff @Scubanoobi thanks for putting it together and sharing. It really is a good example of how well the camera white balances and focuses at depth. I did finally get in the water with it this month at Grand Cayman and I focused mainly on stills so that I can become familiar with the controls and how things work. I have several things I realize I have to get into my routine right away such as raising the flash before I get the camera in the housing LOL, I forgot on 2 occasions to pop up the flash. The other quirk I have to remember which will help my photos and reduce any editing I have to do afterwards is to zoom in a little to reduce the vignetting caused by the Kraken KRL-01. I wish I could just hit a button and lock the zoom at a minimum distance so that once I add the lens on I press the button and the minimum is set for the remainder of the dive.

 

[ponomo1]

@choiahoy I've seen your video on another post and I've added St Croix onto my shore dive bucket list because of it LOL. Thanks so much for sharing

 

[drhappy]

@Scubanoobi & @choiahoy What settings did you guys land on?

 

[Scubanoobi]

For me (going by memory) here are my settings:

• Set picture profile to Cinelike D (you can google how to do this, it's a hack)
• I have my C1 set to 4k30, C2 set to 1080 60 and C3 set to HFR 120 fps
• Back dial is reassigned to WB so can get to the manual white balance a little easier
• Autofocus is set to AF-S (AF-C is way to jumpy and unreliable)
• Back button focus is enabled for when I want the focus locked during video.
• For my C2 (1080 60fps) I currently have horizontal level turned off, but I'm going to turn it back on since my Inon UWL-h100 vignettes at 27mm and I need to crop/zoom anyway so I I'm going to get some additional stabilization it will crop it to 31mm, which will still vignette, but a little less.
• I shoot in Aperture priority mode
• Getting a good custom white balance is key, I still need to colour correct in post but I can pull quite a bit out of it when I have a good white balance.
• I also have the Kelvin WB setting defaulted to 10,000K and adjusted down the bottom left corner (red: A:9 M:9) for deeper than 50 ft, I haven't tested this yet though.

Other minor tweaks but can't remember exactly what.

 

[choiahoy]

@Scubanoobi & @choiahoy What settings did you guys land on?

This is also from memory; I'll check at home to make sure I got the details right. And please keep in mind I only shoot video, so if you also shoot stills, the settings might not be ideal -

I have C1 set up for wide angle, C2 for macro, and C3 for slow motion

C1-
4K 29.97
Aperture Priority - 60 (or whatever is twice your frame rate for realistic motion blur)
Autofocus - AF-S
FN1 - autofocus on
FN2 - Exposure lock (to avoid changes in middle of a shot)
FN3 - ISO
Back Dial - exposure compensation for on-the-fly adjustments
White Balance - It's kind of a pain to set up, but it saves time in the end.
WB1 - I set this on a grey board above water with a red filter on, essentially negating the filter so I can shoot in the housing on the surface without everything being red.
WB 2 - I set this at around 15 ft (with red filter)
WB 3 - 30ish feet (with red filter)
WB 4 - I leave this open to white balance on the fly if I go deeper or if WB 1 - 3 don't look quite right.


C2 is set up the same as the above except -
Focus is to Macro
WB1 - I set this on a grey board at close range with both my lights (2 x 2500 lumens) on
Depending on the subject, I sometimes attach a wet macro lens.

Hope this is helpful and happy diving!

 

[ponomo1]

Thanks @Scubanoobi great info
How far out do you find yourself zooming out to eliminate the vignetting completely? I have the Kraken krl-01 and like I mentioned in my earlier post, I didn't zoom out in any of my photos so I have a lot of post editing to do to remove the vignette and distortion on the left and right.
Does anyone know if the zoom can be set once in the field and then lock in the setting to always return to that zoom setting as the camera is turned on and off during a dive?

 

[ponomo1]

Holy cow @choiahoy and @Scubanoobi
looking at those things that you guys are just recalling off the top of your heads just shows me I have a LOOOOOTTT to learn. LOL

 

[choiahoy]

Set picture profile to Cinelike D (you can google how to do this, it's a hack).

I'd be curious to try this. My thought has always been that the real advantage to shooting a flat Log color profile is only really seen when color correcting 10 bit footage, but some recent conversations have made me re-think this.

@Scubanoobi, I'm assuming in your tests you've found it worthwhile to shoot Cinelike D?