Mulling over BP/W options...
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Grey Goose
Contributor
I use a bp/w with the "deluxe" harness that is both adjustable and has pads. The pads are nice if you're walking for any distance on land before splashing (some shore dives). I'm using the diverite harness, and I often pick up the bp/w with an Worthington lp108 attached by one strap. I've never had a buckle break or come inadvertently unbuckled or loose. I did replace the harness after 5 years just out of an abundance of caution over the buckle breaking.
I also use an air2 with mine. As others have said, nothing about bp/w makes an air2 any different than with any other bcd.
I started with a steel plate, but have also bought an aluminum, and two plastic plates, and a freedom plate. The webbing is easy to move to different plates and I switch it up sometimes. I usually take the aluminum plate when I travel.
I've taken the b/pw (in checked bag) to Cozumel twice, and Roatan once. No problems with TSA or anyone else. I've usually got more expensive stuff to carry on (cameras, regulators, computers etc).
I use diverite ditchable weight pouches with mine. These also have never inadvertently come loose. I remove them after every dive, they're very simple and reliable.
I also use an air2 with mine. As others have said, nothing about bp/w makes an air2 any different than with any other bcd.
I started with a steel plate, but have also bought an aluminum, and two plastic plates, and a freedom plate. The webbing is easy to move to different plates and I switch it up sometimes. I usually take the aluminum plate when I travel.
I've taken the b/pw (in checked bag) to Cozumel twice, and Roatan once. No problems with TSA or anyone else. I've usually got more expensive stuff to carry on (cameras, regulators, computers etc).
I use diverite ditchable weight pouches with mine. These also have never inadvertently come loose. I remove them after every dive, they're very simple and reliable.
I started with the Zeagle Brigade, it has a horseshoe wing. I decided to try a BPW and ordered the Deep 6 package with a 20lb wing. To me the difference between a horseshoe and donut is hardly noticeable except for the Brigade having bottom dump valves on each side.
I was a little intimidated setting it up but watching YouTube videos made it pretty easy, one tip is to leave wore room in the shoulder straps than you think you will need. I did not need to make any adjustments after my initial setup. I am close to your size, 6' 1" 240, and the plate fits me fine. It really is amazing how comfortable it is. I ordered the kit with the STA but have never used it. I bought the AL plate since much of my diving is with HP 120's where I don't use additional weights. I use two inexpensive XS Scuba weight pockets on my cam bands for AL 80's. I first tried the weight pockets on the waist strap but it was kind of a pain to put on. I took the crotch strap off after the 3rd dive and haven't felt a need to use it since, maybe having the buckle under my belly helps keep everything place.
I was a little intimidated setting it up but watching YouTube videos made it pretty easy, one tip is to leave wore room in the shoulder straps than you think you will need. I did not need to make any adjustments after my initial setup. I am close to your size, 6' 1" 240, and the plate fits me fine. It really is amazing how comfortable it is. I ordered the kit with the STA but have never used it. I bought the AL plate since much of my diving is with HP 120's where I don't use additional weights. I use two inexpensive XS Scuba weight pockets on my cam bands for AL 80's. I first tried the weight pockets on the waist strap but it was kind of a pain to put on. I took the crotch strap off after the 3rd dive and haven't felt a need to use it since, maybe having the buckle under my belly helps keep everything place.
I've been diving a BPW since 2006. Started with DSS plates and wings and moved to HOG. Why? Well, I started selling the wings and after having a DSS bladder get some small punctures and having to send it back for repair I decided to go with a bladder that did not require that. DSS used a urethane bladder. HOG is fabric and a 10-minute job to replace at home.
I've used aluminum and steel plates and I own a freedom Plate as well. I sold one of my DSS plates and the other I gave away to a student who helped me a great deal with classes along with a harness and cam bands. Her dad paid for a new HOG wing to go on it.
The HOG wings do not require an STA and the slots are long enough to work with any plate that has them. If not using an STA some people like a sex bolt to hold the wing at the proper height but a zip tie works just fine. It's not load bearing so it works and is easy and cheap to replace.
A BPW is completely modular and while you can put an AIRII on one I've never seen the advantage. The stock inflator hose on a BPW is often shorter than those used with AIRII's so you'll need to replace the corrugated hose. I don't like pull dumps on inflators due to having seen too many people grab them wrong and over time end up pulling the elbow out of the wing.
It's not surprising that the plastic part on the Sherwood cam bands broke. We have had a number of them at the shop fail. Some older ones and a few newer Avids just let go.
You can put a comfort/transpac style harness on and I have set up with one. I don't use it much. It mainly sees use because I was between BPW setups having sold all my steel and aluminum plates and I bought a HOG comfort set up to use as a demo so was using that. I now have another steel plate from Manta with a Deep Six harness and HOG wing ;=), so you can mix and match.
I don't use integrated weights unless you consider pouches on the cam bands integrated. You'll also find that you won;t need as much lead. The Avid has 4-5 lbs of positive buoyancy due to the unnecessary padding and how it traps air.
A steel plate will let you take at least 6 lbs off and compared to the Avid probably closer to 10.
I've used aluminum and steel plates and I own a freedom Plate as well. I sold one of my DSS plates and the other I gave away to a student who helped me a great deal with classes along with a harness and cam bands. Her dad paid for a new HOG wing to go on it.
The HOG wings do not require an STA and the slots are long enough to work with any plate that has them. If not using an STA some people like a sex bolt to hold the wing at the proper height but a zip tie works just fine. It's not load bearing so it works and is easy and cheap to replace.
A BPW is completely modular and while you can put an AIRII on one I've never seen the advantage. The stock inflator hose on a BPW is often shorter than those used with AIRII's so you'll need to replace the corrugated hose. I don't like pull dumps on inflators due to having seen too many people grab them wrong and over time end up pulling the elbow out of the wing.
It's not surprising that the plastic part on the Sherwood cam bands broke. We have had a number of them at the shop fail. Some older ones and a few newer Avids just let go.
You can put a comfort/transpac style harness on and I have set up with one. I don't use it much. It mainly sees use because I was between BPW setups having sold all my steel and aluminum plates and I bought a HOG comfort set up to use as a demo so was using that. I now have another steel plate from Manta with a Deep Six harness and HOG wing ;=), so you can mix and match.
I don't use integrated weights unless you consider pouches on the cam bands integrated. You'll also find that you won;t need as much lead. The Avid has 4-5 lbs of positive buoyancy due to the unnecessary padding and how it traps air.
A steel plate will let you take at least 6 lbs off and compared to the Avid probably closer to 10.
OP
drrich2
Contributor
Appreciate all the input! Very helpful. Been talking online with a regional dive shop about some options, and considering Dive Rite. Really wanted a Hydros Pro but yet more posts crop up about shoulder strap problems, and after my Sherwood Avid experience, durability is an issue. Speaking of which, at Dive Rite's Voyager wing page, they mention:
"Divers may choose from our durable 1680 ballistic nylon EXP material or our even more rugged SuperFabric® brand technology XT material that creates an armor-clad outer shell that is impervious to damaging pinches and cuts, with a 1680 ballistic nylon diver's side panel. Both the Voyager EXP (Model BC4700) and Voyager XT (Model5200) are further enhanced with a heavy-duty, 210 denier nylon laminated bladder."
Wonder if there's any downside (besides extra cost) to buying the SuperFabric version?
Also, if you wanted to paint your stainless steel back plate, what would you use? It occurs to me that shouldn't be terribly difficult to do...
Richard.
"Divers may choose from our durable 1680 ballistic nylon EXP material or our even more rugged SuperFabric® brand technology XT material that creates an armor-clad outer shell that is impervious to damaging pinches and cuts, with a 1680 ballistic nylon diver's side panel. Both the Voyager EXP (Model BC4700) and Voyager XT (Model5200) are further enhanced with a heavy-duty, 210 denier nylon laminated bladder."
Wonder if there's any downside (besides extra cost) to buying the SuperFabric version?
Also, if you wanted to paint your stainless steel back plate, what would you use? It occurs to me that shouldn't be terribly difficult to do...
Richard.
I think you could use just about any method you wanted. Easiest is probably spray paint. Maybe stainless primer, 3 or 4 coats and then a clear coat so it doesn't scratch as easily. That's probably overkill. Big box stores have a wide variety of spray paints these days. You could probably find some special all in one spray paint and get many coats out of a single can.
My aluminum plate came painted (black) and both plastic plates I've got are black. Both my diverite steel plate and my freedom plate are unpainted steel. I assume stainless since rust seems to be a non-issue.
You'll need to prime it with a steel primer. Then you'll likely need to look for an oil-based paint so it doesn't break down with water exposure. Multiple coats will be necessary if you want it to last. And @kelemvor is correct, a clear coat is also important. Without a protectorant, your work will end up destroyed pretty quickly. I would do 2 coats of that as well.
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