Brinyte DIV10 "3000 Lumen" Canister light Review

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Any tips on gaining access to the inside? I need to cut around 5 inches of cable off and re attach them.

Slow and steady. Thinking through, there's nothing particularly shocking about getting in there.

Unscrew to loosen the gland (leaving the base installed in the battery can).

I didn't have a pin spanner so I made one out of a piece of wood and two nails to open in the battery compartment. Unscrewed easily and reveals the board.

Used a combination of pushing the wire simultaneously with pulling on the board to dislodge it. I'd be worried about damage otherwise. Didn't need a heat gun, just firm consistent force. Perhaps consider a heatgun internally (watch the gland).

Soldering the leads be aware there isn't much room in there, copy the original lengths and angles and how much wire is stripped etc.

As you dig into it feel few to shoot me any questions as you go. I don't have much focused attention left these days for thoughtful posts but do check the forum very regularly and can shoot quick replies. (Just because I've done the repair before, not an expert on dive lights)

Good luck!

Cameron
 
Slow and steady. Thinking through, there's nothing particularly shocking about getting in there.

Unscrew to loosen the gland (leaving the base installed in the battery can).

I didn't have a pin spanner so I made one out of a piece of wood and two nails to open in the battery compartment. Unscrewed easily and reveals the board.

Used a combination of pushing the wire simultaneously with pulling on the board to dislodge it. I'd be worried about damage otherwise. Didn't need a heat gun, just firm consistent force. Perhaps consider a heatgun internally (watch the gland).

Soldering the leads be aware there isn't much room in there, copy the original lengths and angles and how much wire is stripped etc.

As you dig into it feel few to shoot me any questions as you go. I don't have much focused attention left these days for thoughtful posts but do check the forum very regularly and can shoot quick replies. (Just because I've done the repair before, not an expert on dive lights)

Good luck!

Cameron
Thanks for this advice...

i've just completed the repair successfully, It was actually a little easier than the LED end of the cable i had to repair a while back.

I used some snipe-nose pliers (my leatherman wave multitool actually) to remove the inside portion of the battery clip and it was easier than expected. Soldering the newly stripped ends was a bit tricky as the cable is so thick and not very pliable to bend.
it took me 3 attempts to solder it on the board and slide the board back into its home without too much force being needed.

I've applied some plastic epoxy into the threaded cable retainer and its drying for 24hours before i test it out... Fingers crossed!
 
People have bought them, used them, repaired them...

Worth it?

Best place to buy?
 
I just received a brand new DIV10. Got it for 90€ from gearbest (about $US 104 atm).

My old one died after about 3 years and, i guess, about 150 dives. The cable broke internally, very close to the head.
Since it's all glued down and potted it was impossible for me to repair.. or rather, i wasn't willing to invest the time and huge effort to try and repair something so cheap.

So i ordered a new one, and i'm glad i did. Looks like they listened to their customers and improved the product in several ways.
The new one, compared to the old one:
- uses a different cable that is a bit thicker and a bit more flexible. Still not perfect though.
- has a cable that is shorter by a good 20cm
- has a spring that looks to be gold-plated at the positive contact instead of the little metal nub
- uses different, better screws for the goodman handle and comes with matching washers
 
After reading all your posts I decided to take the risk. I have received the order today, 15 days after my purchase.
Quite happy proceed to test it at home, massive amount of light from the tourch...but after 8 seconds my happiness disappeared as it turns into low mode on its own. Strobe seems to work fine, but it does not mantain the turbo or high mode more than few seconds turning itself into low. I suppose it is a problem with the magnetic switch.
I will try to claim the seller for a new one. I wish next buyers a better luck.
 
After reading all your posts I decided to take the risk. I have received the order today, 15 days after my purchase.
Quite happy proceed to test it at home, massive amount of light from the tourch...but after 8 seconds my happiness disappeared as it turns into low mode on its own. Strobe seems to work fine, but it does not mantain the turbo or high mode more than few seconds turning itself into low. I suppose it is a problem with the magnetic switch.
I will try to claim the seller for a new one. I wish next buyers a better luck.
Interesting. Is the light submerged during this testing? I wonder if there is any sort of thermal throttle - either way I'd expect more than 8 seconds. Mine definitely doesn't have this, but maybe it was updated?

Or you got a bad unit.
 
Most likely it just gets overheated. It's a dive light and supposed to be underwater
 
Interesting. Is the light submerged during this testing? I wonder if there is any sort of thermal throttle - either way I'd expect more than 8 seconds. Mine definitely doesn't have this, but maybe it was updated?

Or you got a bad unit.
Tested really for seconds...No way to be overheated. I´m sure it is bad unit.
Thanks for your comments anyway. Let´s see if I get a new one in good working conditions.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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