3D printing...

[saxman242]

The Tevo Tornado is a nice printer, and you can definitely do much worse (Makerbot) for a first printer. Really, the Makerbot printers aren't great. Check out the Creality CR-10 and the i3 Mega as well. They're all in the same class, essentially Prusa clones. The Creality printers have a HUGE user support base which may be more beneficial while you're starting out, they're essentially the baseline by which all other similar class printers are judged. And all 3 tend to have rotating prices and promo codes and accessory packages, etc. that depending on the day you might get a better deal on one than another. Any would be good for you. I actually like the Tevo a lot, especially the stock Titan extruder, and if I didn't already have a CR-10 at home it's probably what I would choose now, since I'm not as reliant on the community to get my knowledge level to where it's at.

So your "raft" setting on the Replicator 2 software is actually a brim. A real raft is basically a full printed base layer that covers the entire bottom of the print. A brim is what you have in your photo. The name is just an artifact of your Makerbot software not actually calling it what it is. In the software for the Replicator+ it's named correctly. A real raft will take much longer to print, but is very helpful when printing tall stuff and to prevent lifting and curling on large flat stuff.

I have a cr-10 at home and had a replicator 2 at work. The cr-10 is 1/10th the cost of what the replicator 2 was and it had this interesting feature that the replicator 2 lacked; it actually works. The replicator 2 was the biggest pile of crap printer I've ever had the misfortune of having to deal with.

 

[tbone1004]

View attachment 502364
Printed blue spacer as a replacement for the original Apeks one. Easy to recognize my oxygen stageset when all sets are packed in the same basket.

do you have an account on thingiverse?

 

[emoreira]

I'll throw some time at it tonight when I get off work, and let you know when I post it up to Thingiverse

Unbelievable and immensely thankful.
I will search someone local with a 3D printer and print a pair, to see how it goes.

 

[The Chairman]

Alas, there was an issue with my work: it was actually four parts. So I redid it and came up with one part. It looks similar, but better. @JohnnyC do you think that would print in one go using a raft and supports? Or should I make it into four parts and be prepared to assemble those pieces. I can cut the center hex and end caps into two and print the two snowflakes separately as well. Adding a hex center that slips into each end would be simple enough and would maintain orientation. I'm going to use ABS or possibly PETG. Thoughts?

 

[JohnnyC]

Alas, there was an issue with my work: it was actually four parts. So I redid it and came up with one part. It looks similar, but better. @JohnnyC do you think that would print in one go using a raft and supports? Or should I make it into four parts and be prepared to assemble those pieces. I can cut the center hex and end caps into two and print the two snowflakes separately as well. Adding a hex center that slips into each end would be simple enough and would maintain orientation. I'm going to use ABS or possibly PETG. Thoughts?

View attachment 502488​

I would actually print that as parts, each end with one hex piece, flange side down, the center hex piece, and the two battery clips. You might be able to get away with combining the center hex on top of one of the clips. You're going to want the flanged pieces separate anyway. Reason being, any time you have to print supports, you're increasing print time, and increasing the likelihood of a print failure. Every single one of those overhangs becomes a failure point, especially since they're all at 90 degrees. You also end up having to cut out all of that support material after the fact, and due to the type and size of overhang you're not going to want to skimp on it. The means larger percentage and smaller distance from print, again, more time, more potential for print failure.

You could key the hex sections on one side so there's an internal slip fit, one flange end with the hex bit with "male" lip on the end, 2 x battery clips with female on the clip end and male on the hex end (this now becomes a standard interchangeable part btw) and the flange/endcap with a holt to

I'd print the clips and the center section with a raft, and try the flanged hex ends without, just make sure it's oriented flange side down. Some painters tape and glue stick wouldn't be a bad idea either. You'll probably be able to get away with it. You're not really looking at a lot of infill, something like hex or diamond at 25 or 35% would be more than enough most likely. Printing it in pieces also allows you to scale. You could easily add a third (fourth, fifth, etc) layer of batteries if it just consists of printing an extra clip and hex standoff. If you're willing to experiment, you could try printing it as one piece with a raft and supports just to see what will happen, but I wouldn't be surprised if you came back to a pile of spaghetti.

 

[The Chairman]

but I wouldn't be surprised if you came back to a pile of spaghetti.

Yeah... and the printer I'm using has a 150mm height limit and the project is 150mm high. I almost want to try, just to see it fail. Test the envelope as it were. I'm waiting on springs for a couple of days, so I have time.

 

[wwunder]

So I want to order a spool of PETG, but can't decide on what colour to order... any votes? Thinking white for a nice clean look, but red might be fun. Black seems a bit boring.

 

[The Chairman]

So I want to order a spool of PETG,

I just ordered a translucent yellow for my battery case. It looks to be a better selection than PLA or ABS for this battery holder.

Johnny C, I took your advice and separated this into 5 pieces (3 files). Two stepped bases, two bat clips and a spacer.

 

[victorzamora]

I just ordered a translucent yellow for my battery case. It looks to be a better selection than PLA or ABS for this battery holder.

Split up like that looks like it'll be 100% better than printing in one-piece on the printer. You'll print overall faster, with less material, and higher chance of success.

Remember to post pics once you get it all together!

 

[Peter Slater]

OK, I got to print my project today. No, not the one I posted earlier. It was created using "front" as the plane on which I worked and extruded. When I went to print, it was on its side, facing me. I tried to figure out how to flip it, but alas I could not suss that out. Since I had my tablet with me, I thought I would see how fast I could whip it up. It took me right at 20 minutes to accomplish what took me hours the day before. It was magical and it even looked better. I changed the extrusion from 25mm to 50mm thick. that might be overkill. It was a 4:48 print. I wasn't willing to wait that long, so I went back tonight to grab it. Wow. It looks good and it works. Here is the story in pictures...

View attachment 502237

The print is just starting. The raft is down and you can just see the edges. I think it's at 4% here.

View attachment 502238

Here we are at 43%.

View attachment 502239

All done, but will the batteries fit?

View attachment 502240

Back at home, I tried the batteries. Wow. It's awesome to see how they clip in. It feels solid.

View attachment 502241

The view from the top. There's some cracking I don't understand. Maybe Guru Chris can clue me in.
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@cerich should see this.

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Have you thought about just sliding in the 18650s vs clipping in? Sliding would allow you to make the parts thicker to prevent breaking.