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Not everyone is built the same, the hog just doesn’t fit me, straps slide off of my shoulders, straps cut into my armpits, probably because I’m thick with a 52” chest. My H set up fits perfectly and stays in place, no adjusting needed. I’ve tried simple and it just doesn’t work for me.

I agree that not everyone has a shape that will work. Some don't.

But, I can say that I am also built like you describe. Big in the chest. Very sloped shoulders. At one point, I even thought I needed (and did put on and use) a sternum strap. Eventually, I figured out that (for ME) I just had the shoulder straps tighter than they needed to be and that solved problems.

If the straps on a Hog harness cut into your armpits, that definitely sounds like straps that are too tight. I'm having a hard time imagining any body shape where a Hog harness would be setup correctly and the straps cut into your armpits. Unless maybe you're really big and the plate is too short. But even then...

Internet instructions all say the straps should be loose enough to put your fist in between the strap and your chest. I started there, but, really, that can still be WAY too tight.

But, I know you are very experienced and I realize there is more to it, so I don't mean to sound like I'm telling you that you're doing it wrong. I haven't seen you and I don't have all the information. I will certainly take your word for it that a Hog harness just won't work for you. You've found something that does work for you and that's way more important than having 1 piece of webbing for the whole harness, anyway. :)
 
I’m no coolaider myself, so if someone has a good idea that seems like it could/would work better than what I’m using, I’ll try it. Some people are bound by beliefs that were implanted during an indoctrination. I don’t think that way,
I think the failure point argument is stale. I don't buy into the “only one way” mentality.
I think this harness inventiveness is great! And if quick releases help somebody, then even better. My mind is wide open at this point.
 
One size definitely doesn't fit all. I have often thought about a custom molded fiberglass and silicon hybrid. The top part of the shoulder straps and the lower part that wraps around the waist would be Silicon and webbing would connect them together. I tried cutting some out of flat rubber sheet a few times but the shoulder portion wasn't any better than webbing.

I would never make economic sense for a product but a 3D printed design coupled with 3D scanning "might" make it practical at some point. Of course it would never look as good as Stainless, polished or not. I have always viscerally been attracted to well-crafted Stainless and Titanium.
 
One size definitely doesn't fit all. I have often thought about a custom molded fiberglass and silicon hybrid. The top part of the shoulder straps and the lower part that wraps around the waist would be Silicon and webbing would connect them together. I tried cutting some out of flat rubber sheet a few times but the shoulder portion wasn't any better than webbing.

That sounds pretty similar to the "back plate" and harness on a ScubaPro Hydros Pro BCD... The BP is monoprene, though, not fiberglass or silicone.
 
That sounds pretty similar to the "back plate" and harness on a ScubaPro Hydros Pro BCD... The BP is monoprene, though, not fiberglass or silicone.

Not really. The reason for molding is to conform to the individual's body shape to minimize pressure points. The geometry of the shoulders is pretty complex from a 3D and dynamic range perspective. The harness on the ScubaPro Hydros is still basically a 2D solution to a 3D problem.
 
I think the failure point argument is stale. I don't buy into the “only one way” mentality.

The DIR/GUE mentality was born out of people doing expedition level dives which most of us don't do. GI3 was never shy in saying the reason he progressed in WKPP was because the people ahead of him kept dying. Most of us are not diving where a single failure will kill us.

For single-tank diving the harness really doesn't matter. However, I could see it mattering for someone using a scooter, with heavy steel doubles and a few stages. I don't dive like that but if I did I would look more closely at the harness.
 
Well I just received my beautiful Freedom plate in the mail today wow it’s shiny. It’s beautiful in pictures but even more amazing to hold it in my hands. I think I will not use the rail or the wedge block with my VDH wing and just keep it simple but I got them just Incase for the future.

I have the VDH 23# wing. is it the preferred way to hold the VDH wing to the plate with just the Camstraps?
After a bit of stretching out my brand new tight wing I was able to get the bolts to line up with the grommet holes. but I’m don’t think the bolts with regular nuts are meant to hold the wing to the plate seems like a bad idea unless I pickup some wingnuts and maybe plastic ones.

Also if i use the rail should I pickup some lock washers to make sure the nuts don’t back out? A washer came with the aluminum wedge block but not the rail.
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Well I just received my beautiful Freedom plate in the mail today wow it’s shiny. It’s beautiful in pictures but even more amazing to hold it in my hands. I think I will not use the rail or the wedge block with my VDH wing and just keep it simple but I got them just Incase for the future.

I have the VDH 23# wing. is it the preferred way to hold the VDH wing to the plate with just the Camstraps?
After a bit of stretching out my brand new tight wing I was able to get the bolts to line up with the grommet holes. but I’m don’t think the bolts with regular nuts are meant to hold the wing to the plate seems like a bad idea unless I pickup some wingnuts and maybe plastic ones.

Also if i use the rail should I pickup some lock washers to make sure the nuts don’t back out? A washer came with the aluminum wedge block but not the rail.
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I bolt my wings on but it’s not necessary, I have also used my plate with no rail but I think the wedge block makes it better. If you use the block you may find the bolt to short with a lock washer, I haven’t had any real problem with the nut loosening. It if I were worried I would go with nylock nuts. The wing should have come with plastic book screws, use one at the top if you use the block.
 
Well I just received my beautiful Freedom plate in the mail today wow it’s shiny. It’s beautiful in pictures but even more amazing to hold it in my hands.

I have the VDH 23# wing. is it the preferred way to hold the VDH wing to the plate with just the Camstraps?
After a bit of stretching out my brand new tight wing I was able to get the bolts to line up with the grommet holes. but I’m don’t think the bolts with regular nuts are meant to hold the wing to the plate seems like a bad idea unless I pickup some wingnuts and maybe plastic ones.

Wow, that is gorgeous! I am eagerly anticipating mine!

Yeah, you don't want to bolt the wing to the plate like that. The cam straps will pin the tank against those bolts with all of their force, and that will scratch and gouge the crap out of your tank.

As stated above, you don't have to use anything, but platisic bolts will make your rig easier to assemble.

I actually put some holes in strips of 1.5" nylon webbing to put between the wing and the plate, and another on the other side between the wing and plastic bolts so that the extra grommets on the wing won't scratch the plate or tank. It probably isn't necessary on the tank side since the plastic bolts should keep the tank off the grommets, but it makes me feel better. Beware, though, the DGX plastic bolts are barely long enough for the extra nylon, and the Piranha Dive bolts simply aren't.

I can post a picture, if you like.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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