IP measurement for Pony/Stage Reg?

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Do you imply that well maintained regs don't creep? I don't have much experience. I own regs for less than a year (without any problems so far), but I have the impression that creep is something that can happen even to "well" maintained regs. And yes I do try to take good care of them but as usual sh*t happens and an IP check would hopefully reveal problems before it is too late - that's why I do it. For my main regulator set (which includes a BCD power inflator hose of course) measuring IP is so easy that I usually do it once a month or so (that's every 4-5 dives with my current schedule).

A well maintained and properly serviced reg should not creep. If it is then it needs to be fixed. A reg failing or creeping is not the norm; far from it. I own several regs and I don't spend my time checking the IP. They are rinsed and cleaned after use and properly serviced. None have given any problems.

As mentioned before, take care of the reg and have it properly serviced. Usually when s**t happens it is because the reg was not properly maintained or serviced improperly, not because it decided to fail at a particular moment.
 
A well maintained and properly serviced reg should not creep. If it is then it needs to be fixed.

^This. I dived with an older Beuchat regulator for 100s of dives over 10+ years. In the past year or so the IP started creeping up. I sent it out to a reg tech that has serviced in the past. I think we had a back and forth about 3-4 times which didn't stop the IP creep. It was during this time that I started playing around with using my AI computer and an LP/HP adapter configuration to constantly check the IP before and during dive trips when I had freeflow issues with my BCD mounted regulator.

Rather than looking for better ways to check the IP I sold the Beuchat on Ebay for $10 (clearly stating the issues) and got a new first stage and haven't looked back nor have I had the need to check an IP recently.

Fix the problem not look for a better way to measure the symptoms.
 
Maybe I used the wrong words when I said "Do you imply that well maintained regs don't creep?" - sorry English is not my language. What I meant is this:
"Do you imply that a well maintained reg will never creep?" I don't think so.

I fully agree that a regulator in good working order should not creep. If it creeps then it is not any more in good working order and I wouldn't dive it. But to my understanding carefully maintaining it (including service and cleaning it after use) cannot guaranty that the regulator will be free of problems until its' next service interval. Hence one needs to check every now and then that everything is indeed in good working order (ie no leaks, no creep etc). Isn't it? That's why I want to occasionally be able to measure the IP - the easier this can be done the better.
Cheers
 
Hence one needs to check every now and then that everything is indeed in good working order (ie no leaks, no creep etc). Isn't it? That's why I want to occasionally be able to measure the IP

I'm willing to bet the vast majority of recreational divers NEVER check the IP of their regulators- especially if they don't have any freeflow issues. Why would they? I know I sure didn't until my Beuchat started to crap out and I found myself switching backup regulators out of my spare parts bag when I should have been relaxing in the sun on the dive boat.
 
Fix the problem not look for a better way to measure the symptoms.

Nicely stated.

My very first reg had a creeping issue. It was a former rental reg purchased from a dive shop in TX. I had a good conversation with a couple of techs and learned a few things about the reg. That is when I acknowledged to myself it was time to get rid of it and get a better one. I've learned even more after becoming a service tech.
 
A well maintained and properly serviced reg should not creep. If it is then it needs to be fixed. A reg failing or creeping is not the norm; far from it. I own several regs and I don't spend my time checking the IP. They are rinsed and cleaned after use and properly serviced. None have given any problems.

Nothing wrong with occasionally checking the IP, particularly if you've been out of the water for a while. No one is suggesting, at least I hope not, that it is substitute for service and proper cleaning. But when you have a painless way to test at least one aspect of first stage health, why not? FWIW, I have found and fixed creeping first stages by doing just that.

To OP's question - it's easiest to use your spare hose. One hex key to remove the port plug, hand tighten the hose, test, and replace port plug. Done and very hard to mess up. Sure, you can pop off the second stage, but that requires two wrenches and that connection is a bit more delicate because of the need to be careful not to rotate the barrel inside the second stage. It's not rocket science, but if we're gonna be technical about it, it's not as robust as screwing in a port plug to a big hunk of brass. Also attaching inline tool with IP gauge requires two more attachments and detachments.

All that said, I routinely leave a low pressure inflator hose on my stages and bailouts. It comes in handy for shooting bags or plugging in offboard gas and is a very small failure risk.
 
I don't agree with the sentiment "fix the problem not look for a better way to measure the symptoms". The statement on its own makes perfect sense but in the aggregate of what the OP has asked it does not apply.

It makes sense from the standpoint of looking for another way to measure IP after finding that there is IP creep or IP is too high, in that case one should definitely fix the problem instead of fiddling with how to better measure the symptom...

...but measuring IP can be used to detect symptoms in the first place. If a 2nd stage is free flowing, one can spend time adjusting it only to find that its not the 2nd stage but instead the 1st stage. Or one can spend time tearing down their 1st stage only to do unnecessary maintenance and replace parts that didn't warrant replacing because the problem is with the 2nd stage.

getting a visual of the IP by connecting a gauge is an excellent way to begin diagnosing problems and can be used from a preventative maintenance standpoint. One can use the IP gauge to detect a problem so it can be addressed before it becomes catastrophic.

One might argue that if one's regulators are maintained properly that this would not be relevant, but the idea of "proper" is only loosely defined. If one is taking their regs in for service which may include an inspection one year and rebuild the following, then during the inspection year one may be paying a technician to connect an IP gauge to the reg. I am not sure how invasive an inspection is but I assume it includes checking IP, checking for overt signs of corrosion, checking the sintered filter for verdigree/rust, checking the hoses for cracks, checking the cracking pressure of the 2nds stages, checking the 2nd stage mouth piece is not deteriorated and the tie wrap holding it on is in good condition, checking the purge button does not stick, and checking all hose connections are not loose. What am I missing? This is all things that someone with basic mechanical intuition can do on their own.

There was reference in the discussion above that most recreational divers don't check their IP....well the OP is talking about a regulator for his pony bottle...most recreational divers don't dive with a pony bottle, so those comments are not really relevant.

The OP is looking for a convenient way to measure the IP of the reg used on his pony bottle and wants to be able to do it in a way that presents the least hassle and the least possible danger to damaging his regulator. From that standpoint the recommendation would be (and it has been stated) to install an inflator hose to the 1st stage and leave it in connected, then use it to check IP. One can get a short hose used for sidemount diving to keep the foot print small or perhaps a normal length one will stowe better under the keeper(s) used around the bottle to keep the 2nd stage and spg hoses tidy when not in use. If adding a hose is not preferred then installing an inflator hose specifically to check iP, when desired would probably be the next least invasive/damage prone way to go about this, followed by removing the 2nd stage.

Of course periodic maintenance should cover issues where IP will be a problem...but problems can develop during the year or 2 year period between regulator maintenace, and some choose to extend that window out even further for various reasons. Using an IP gauge is an inexpensive and easy way to begin gauging the health of one's regulator. Does it give the whole picture? no, but neither does a doctor get the whole picture banging on the patients knee with a reflex hammer, or just listening to their heart....these diagnostic tools are typically used to confirm assumptions or to see if certain signs are present...that is how the IP gauge should/could be used.

-Z

-Z
 
A well maintained and properly serviced reg should not creep. If it is then it needs to be fixed.

And of course, periodically checking the IP of a regulator IS part of maintaining it. Which is exactly what the OP wants to do. He should be encouraged in this, not discouraged.

OP, removing a port plug, attaching a LP hose inflator hose, and using an IP gauge on it is the easiest, simplest way to check the IP. There's no need at all to leave a LP inflator hose permanently attached. Just take it off and replace the port plug. Removing the 2nd stage from the hose, then using an inline IP gauge, is more effort, and requires a more expensive IP gauge.
 
what is the problem?? :)
Just attach this pressure Mini Gauge to your regulator and observe your IP any time!
this is Underwater PG.
PG-JH2-LP.jpg

It has UNF 3/8-24 thread with standard o-ring sealing.

P.S. - about symptoms: Intermediate pressue gauge - Recognizing regulator problems
 
Thanks for all the advices.
Well the reg set is a brand new Scubapro mk11/c370 I received few days ago.
As an initial check I attached the inflator hose, pressurise the system and check ip, cracking effort, leaks, etc. Everything was spot on as they should be after a factory set.
To make sure there is no leaks, I closed the valve and left the system under pressure for some time. After 3 nights (maybe I over did it) I fount pressure to about 180 bar (down from the initial 200) and the ip actually dropped a bit to 9.2bar (down from 9.5). So the set seems good to go.
The current inflator hose seems too long to leave it attached. It is my first pony /stage hence I plan to do a lot of drills with it. So, I decided for now to have it without the hose. Once I get familiar with it, I'll check how big disturbance the hose is.
Until then and since I like to check things every now and then, I'll just attach it temporarily to check ip when needed.
Thanks a lot
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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