Cheap DIY bolt-on weights

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MoistNeoprene

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Messages
27
Reaction score
17
Location
Boston
# of dives
25 - 49
I've been looking for a decent way to add weight to my backplate for use with drysuit, heavy undergarments, and a single tank.

After reviewing commercially available options I was thoroughly disappointed:
1) Steel backplate. Cheap way to add an extra 5 lbs, but this isn't enough.
2) Tank strap pouches. Decent way to add a few extra lbs, but still not enough.
3) Weight belt. Cheap, but uncomfortable to the point of ruining the dive.
4) Weighted single tank adapter. Ridiculously expensive at about $250 to add a measly 4 lbs. Also not very travel friendly.
5) P-weight. No easy to find commercially available option, PITA to make that requires casting your own lead and potentially exposing yourself to toxic lead fumes. DIR Zone does make one, but its on the lower end of the weight, and hard to find outside of the UK.
6) TresPres backplate: cheap, versatile and travel friendly solution, but reviews are that it's cheaply made and zippers break quickly.
7) FinnSub FlyWeight system: originally very expensive, and now impossible to buy because the company went out of business.
8) OMS backplate pad w/ weight pockets: pretty expensive at $110, only adds 12 lbs which may not be enough, and adds unnecessary bouyancy in the padding that further reduces the effective weight added.

After deliberating over unsatisfying commercial options for months now, I finallycame up with a super simple solution for about $10 that does the trick and is travel safe. Basically I just took two strips of harness webbing, inserted a heavy duty 3/8" grommet hole on both ends, threaded weights onto it as if it were a weight belt, and then attached to the holes in the backplate using 1" long 3/8" bolts and wing nuts.

It's travel safe because you can just thread on rental weights if you want, and takes up hardly any weight or space as just the straps.
It can be easily added or removed from the backplate in a few minutes without needing to disassemble it.
It can hold an adjustable amount of weight, although you may need to add additional grommets at different lengths to keep it tight against the backplate.
You can rest easy that it's secure and won't accidentally result in lost weight.

Anyway, just thought I'd share in case others find it useful
 

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@MoistNeoprene I just did something similar on my Freedom Plate.
I used 4 DGX trim pouched threaded on the webbing.
DGX Trim Weight Pocket (each) | Dive Gear Express®
dx-101003_4a.jpg


dx-101003_6.jpg

They are the lowest profile pocket that I've found
You could probably get 6 on a full-size plate.

Requires only a minute to load or unload and no tools.
 
I would want those bolts to be shortened so they are not poking the BC. Maybe even a cap over them? That is a lot of lead.
 
Thanks for sharing.
 
Nice work!!
 
I would want those bolts to be shortened so they are not poking the BC. Maybe even a cap over them? That is a lot of lead.

It takes a lot of lead to sink my drysuit. I haven't exactly dialed it in yet because I just got new gear, but when I last went out, I had a full 120 cf steel tank which is about 6 lbs negative, 12 lbs lead on the cam bands, a fully squeezed suit with no air in it, and still couldn't sink with a fully exhaled breath until I added another 10 lbs weight...but the tank will become close to neutral when empty so I would need another 6 lbs, and I do actually plan in putting some air in my drysuit! So yeah, looks like I need at least 30 lbs of lead, and what you see pictured is only 20 lbs. I'll add the rest to the cam bands
 
Interesting solution. Use sex bolts, not regular bolts and wingnuts.
 
I’m not a dry suit diver, but I’m surprised you don’t want some of those 30 lbs ditchable. A 10 or 14 lb weight belt should be able to be configured comfortably. I have no problem with diy experimentation.

Another idea, you might be able to use one belt and thread it through the top slots if the plate slots are wide enough. Having the belt in a upside down u configuration might eliminate both top bolts and you can still adjust from the bottom and the wing nuts. So you would be running two belts through the top slots, the normal harness belt and the weight holding belt.

Another problem you will have is that if you remove a weight, then the belt will be loose and flopping around. Perhaps weight pockets would eliminate that effect?
 

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