XTAR looking for tester or influencer to review for diving LED flashlight

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MilesC

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Hi all my dear buddies

This is Miles from XTAR company, a diving LED flashlight manucfaturer since 2006, now we are looking reviewer who can do test and show us the pics and videos how the light performed above and under the water. Here is the 2 items D36 5800 and D26 1600, anyone who interested pls feel free to contact me at: miles@xtar.cc with your plan how to do and the link of your best done review and/or most popular channel, looking for your guys kindly responding.

D36 5800's brief details:

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IHt7YmqFQMGWbA1Fy9l44Q.jpg


D26 1600's brief details:
TF-SYO_IQkKLuOaChIZ8qA.jpg


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Facebook: Miles Cheng

Wechat: Amilestar
 
I can already tell you an issue with the new D26, the new button lock function is poorly designed. The original physical button lock was pretty good IMO. The original method of pressing it three times in quick succession was ok. But the new "hold for three seconds" is a poor design, the exact reason for having a button lock is something accidentally pressing the button, a prolonged button press can easily happen.

I have a pair of the original D26s with the physical button, I love them. But I won't upgrade unless the button lock is fixed.
 
I can already tell you an issue with the new D26, the new button lock function is poorly designed. The original physical button lock was pretty good IMO. The original method of pressing it three times in quick succession was ok. But the new "hold for three seconds" is a poor design, the exact reason for having a button lock is something accidentally pressing the button, a prolonged button press can easily happen.

I have a pair of the original D26s with the physical button, I love them. But I won't upgrade unless the button lock is fixed.
I am confirming the details you mentioned with our engineer, do you have any other suggestions ? what else flashlight do you have now?
 
I personally have 2 of the original D26 and they're great. If what @Manatee Diver said is true, the new mechanism on the 1600 would be an issue. If I forget to lock mine I've found it on a few times. Has been an issue during the day when I don't see it on right away tucked against my harness.

I'm heading to the St. Lawrence river at the end of this month to check out some wrecks. I'd be ecstatic to try a new light, but there's plenty of people here that are more qualified than I. @stuartv is a great choice, and I think @aviator8 said he was reviewing one. Also @JohnnyC was getting ready to review a bunch of lights. He would be a good candidate to add. I'm not sure if @tbone1004 would be willing to, but worth a shot...
 
@rob.mwpropane I have no problem doing reviews with text and giving engineering feedback during prototyping, but I don't find pictures of beam patterns to be representative and usually couldn't be bothered to edit gopro footage. If I'm diving in a lake/quarry/river it's not going to show anything useful, and if I use it in a cave, it's very difficult to get good quality out of small lights like that.

@MilesC if you want to send me some lights, I'd be more than happy to give them a full review on here with some surface photos compared to the many lights that I have, but I don't find underwater pictures to be useful in the recommendation process with divers and as my next few weeks are scheduled with teaching/mentoring dives it will be in lakes with not great vis. Super important to have good lights for those dives, but the video quality is terrible.
@Lake Hickory Scuba would be a good one to send some lights to as well though.
 
I am confirming the details you mentioned with our engineer, do you have any other suggestions ? what else flashlight do you have now?

Returning to the old physical lock outs are the only real engineering input I have. I also would suggest that you should publish a page with the oring specs, for each model, as it is easier for US customers to just order orings from an oring vendor.

Other than the D26s for underwater use I have a DGX 600 push, and some other random no name light. For above water I have a stack of Surefire lights, and some Fenix lights.

As I get into cave diving I've been trying out the lights for that (leaning toward a Dive Rite HP50), but I keep my D26s as back ups.
 
The lock outs are the only real engineering input I have. I would suggest that you should publish a page with the oring specs, for each model, as it is easier for US customers to just order orings from an oring vendor.

Other than the D26s for underwater use I have a DGX 600 push, and some other random no name light. For above water I have a stack of Surefire lights, and some Fenix lights.

As I get into cave diving I've been trying out the lights for that (leaning toward a Dive Rite HP50), but I keep my D26s as back ups.

The lock is one issue I see with the D26. I have had it accidentally unlocked twice now. I also think they could change the threads so that they engage first then pull the o rings into to the light as you screw tight. The one I am testing has the O rings hit the light head fist and you have to push in and have it exactly at the right angle to get the threads engaged. Easy fix to engineer. I published my post dive thoughts of the light here.

Xtar D26 1600 light review
 
So pretty much as I suspected. I understand why they went with the electronic lock, it is just some code that they have to write once, vs the physical lock required multiple machine operations to make. But I think if you make an electronic lock that won't get activated by being accidentally pressed or held down it becomes too complicated. I would rather pay the extra dollar or two for a physical lock.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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