Apeks XTX50/Ocptopus XTX40 or Cressi MC9 SC?

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"Apeks". That is all.

I'd recommend an XTX50 with an XTX 50 octo.
Why an XTX50 octo? As @Centrals says, the only difference between the 40 and the 50 is that you need a hex key to adjust the cracking pressure on the 40 since they've removed the adjusting screw. Yeah, and the 40 usually comes with the short exhaust port while the 50 usually comes with the long exhaust port.

Since I hardly ever touch the cracking pressure adjustment screw, I'd probably be just as happy with an XTX40/XTX40 combo as I am with the one I have. At least if my primary came with the long exhaust port.
 
if I did want a cold water rated travel reg I'd go with an Apeks - DS4, or DS4+ for the extra hp por

Just noticed my typo, I meant Apeks XL4 / XL4+.
They are based on the DS4 1st stage though.
Have you looked at these regs as an alternative option if you are wanting a more compact and lighter 2nd stage & octo (as the Cressi appears to be)? They're also cold water rated.

I was actually wondering why you had narrowed your shortlist to the xtx50 and the Cressi regs? As has been mentioned, it's not an obvious comparison to make.
 
more obvious comparison in Europe for colder water might be the Apeks or Aqualung vs. Mares Abyss or some of the Scubapro models. I have seen some use Halcyon as well but the Apeks vs. Aqualung vs. Mares vs. Scubapro could be more relevant to rec diver I think and they all have wide presentation in Europe as I have understood
 
Why an XTX50 octo? I'd probably be just as happy with an XTX40/XTX40 combo as I am with the one I have.
the xtx50 adjustment knob would disturb me a little on the octo. it protrudes a little bit and makes the reg thus wider and more awkward to handle. Not a big difference but me doesn't like. On the primary the knob is somewhat useful but you could do without if the reg is adjusted properly...
 
the xtx50 adjustment knob would disturb me a little on the octo. it protrudes a little bit and makes the reg thus wider and more awkward to handle.
It would also be prone to accidental "adjustments". No matter if it's hanging from a D-ring or necklaced under my chin.

On the primary the knob is somewhat useful but you could do without if the reg is adjusted properly...
My point exactly.

When I've set the cracking pressure, the only reg control I'm messing with is the venturi lever. My primary usually is set for max venturi effect, on my secondary it's set to minimum. If I'm swapping to my secondary I might adjust the venturi lever when everything else is under full control.
 
Why an XTX50 octo? As @Centrals says, the only difference between the 40 and the 50 is that you need a hex key to adjust the cracking pressure on the 40 since they've removed the adjusting screw. Yeah, and the 40 usually comes with the short exhaust port while the 50 usually comes with the long exhaust port.

Since I hardly ever touch the cracking pressure adjustment screw, I'd probably be just as happy with an XTX40/XTX40 combo as I am with the one I have. At least if my primary came with the long exhaust port.

I use the "primary donate" set up so the spare second stage is for my use when I have to donate my primary, on a longer hose, to an OOA diver and I'd like to have the same second stage as my primary with the same performance and adjustments not less. The cracking pressure adjustment knob is useful for me to reduce the chances of free flow when the second stage is finely tuned and is out of my mouth (in addition to the other reasons to use it). I don't accept anything less. All of the second stages I use have the dual adjustments (venturi and cracking) with the Atomic second stages having "automatic" venturi adjustment.
 
The cracking pressure adjustment knob is useful for me to reduce the chances of free flow when the second stage is finely tuned and is out of my mouth
Gotcha. I prefer using the venturi lever for that, but whatever floats your boat (pun most definitely intended)
 
I have been taught to have secondary detuned (both venturi and cracking pressure) to avoid free flow. Some even recommend using a correctly tuned 40 as primary and 50 as secondary for this reason (in case you don't have two 50s).
Haven't had too many freeflows with my apeks regulators anyway.
 
The Venturi lever should be set at -ve for the octo or even on the primary but you should remember to switch it back to +ve(primary) after entering into water.
I would never set the cracking pressure of my octo down because it is the one that I breath in emergency.

Apeks.
 

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