BA156

[buddhasummer]

SB and my wife are the only contact I've had and her and I only laugh when one of us trips up.

 

[Couv]

It's 13:14 in the land of the rising sun.

D'oh

- A.m. -p. M? - Man, it wasn't the a.m. -p.m.

 

[Open Ocean Diver]

That's being a bit too familiar. :-D A simple "like" of a post is usually more than enough.

Very funny,

 

[Open Ocean Diver]

Kudos to @tbone1004 for the excellent job he did untangling this thread early on.


I probably don't have the correct color...

Anyway, it looks like the OP has sorted out the problem, but here are a few notes:

If you're sure everything else is in order, i.e. correct spring, good orifice, CLEAN air barrel, poppet in good shape, good seat, good orifice, please ensure the lever height is correct. See this thread:
Scubapro Second Stage Lever Height

The grease in the balance chamber is actually supposed to be there. The s-wing poppet's two o-ring configuration is a sort of reservoir that holds a small amount of lubricant between the two seals. Lubricate the seals, install them and put a small bead of grease around the poppet between them. No grease on any other part of the poppet.

Check the diaphragm disc for striations or engraving. If you find any, reinstall the diaphragm 90 degrees to the direction it was last in. Better yet, remove any impressions made by the lever with fine sandpaper.

I'm not sure you are clear on why we use an IP gauge along with a manometer/magnehelic gauge. It is very hard to tell for sure when the actual opening (cracking) of the second stage demand valve takes place. Listening for a hiss is hit and miss (hey that rhymes.) As you slowly draw a vacuum (or immerse) the second stage watch for a drop in the IP. The IP will drop indicates the opening of the demand valve. Take note of the moment the IP drops and look at the magnehelic to read the cracking pressure. Yes, you have to repeat it a few times as it's impossible to see both gauges at once.

Good luck, I hope this ^^^ helps.

According to your lever height thread my 156 is at .625, is this exceptable?

 

[Couv]

According to your lever height thread my 156 is at .625, is this exceptable?

Before or after you adjusted the cracking effort? If before, it's probably too low. If after,
Simply place the diaphragm over the lever and inspect it for fit. The outside edge of the diaphragm should sit in the case with no gaps around the periphery and no wrinkles in the skirt.

 

[Open Ocean Diver]

Before or after you adjusted the cracking effort? If before, it's probably too low. If after,
Simply place the diaphragm over the lever and inspect it for fit. The outside edge of the diaphragm should sit in the case with no gaps around the periphery and no wrinkles in the skirt.
View attachment 550612

Before with the orifice adjusted away from the soft seat. Can I adjust or does it need replacing?

 

[Open Ocean Diver]

Before with the orifice adjusted away from the soft seat. Can I adjust or does it need replacing?

Also removed the lever it seem in good condition not tweak in anyway, has the flat tabs.

 

[Couv]

Before with the orifice adjusted away from the soft seat. Can I adjust or does it need replacing?

Also removed the lever it seem in good condition not tweak in anyway, has the flat tabs.

If I'm understanding you correctly you measured before any adjusting-so the lever height is probably too low.

RE tweaking the lever is not recommended by SP, but it's your call. See the bottom half of this post:
Scubapro Second Stage Lever Height

 

[halocline]

Sounds like the diaphragm on your BA was sticking to the rubber purge cover. I've had that happen. When it does, you are essentially trying to collapse a stiff rubber purge cover with your inhalation, that doesn't work so well. Removing and cleaning the diaphragm and purge cover fixed it, correct?

 

[Open Ocean Diver]

Sounds like the diaphragm on your BA was sticking to the rubber purge cover. I've had that happen. When it does, you are essentially trying to collapse a stiff rubber purge cover with your inhalation, that doesn't work so well. Removing and cleaning the diaphragm and purge cover fixed it, correct?

When I first took it part the diaphragm and cover were very sticky not sure why, after cleaning I thought the diaphragm was pretty good so I put it back together but the valve still took quite a bit of effort to open, like it was sticking. I pulled out my 108 diaphragm and notice albeit the same part number felt thinner and more supple and slicker to the touch. I tried it in the BA including the cover (cover was dimply on the inside) and it worked valve opened with little effort... using my G250 as a comparison. So I tried with the original cover that was rough on the inside and it still was good, then I put the original diagram just to make sure and the valve again was hard to open.

Going to try it in the pool tomorrow should be fun.

When yours was sticking did it feel sticky to the touch?