Compressor id

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On a somewhat related side question: I live in the frozen north, and I have a Poseidon compressor running on Poseidon (sure it is) 751 — mainly because that’s the oil that came with the compressor when I bought it. Is that the right choice? While I’m derailing, any suggestions for those of us in the frozen north who can’t run our compressor for months during the winter? At least, I assume I can’t run my compressor when it’s near or below freezing: I’m afraid the condensate would freeze and cause problems…
I expect it’s chemlube 751 40 weight, but I don’t know that. If it’s in good shape, I’d use chemlube 501, which is 30 weight. Same diesther oil, just a different weight.
 
I have a 5405 3 stage running on a 7.5 HP electric motor, making just over 8 CFM. The first stage head is a little different than yours. Maybe just a change over time.

I will slow it down and run it on a 5 Hp electric.
Yes,Im just reading the manual and it’s running a little fast at 1400 rpm I’ll back off to spec 1300 rpm, that’s the plan to convert to electric next.
 
I expect it’s chemlube 751 40 weight, but I don’t know that. If it’s in good shape, I’d use chemlube 501, which is 30 weight. Same diesther oil, just a different weight.
Hopefully it’s in good order it appears to run lovely, paint is a little aged,I bought it today off a fireman he ensures me it’s probably never down more than 30to40 hrs it was a backup at the fire station if the electric Bristol went down and it’s bin in storage for 20 years after the insurance wouldn’t cover it at the fire station or something, hence the fireman ended up with it.
 
Hopefully it’s in good order it appears to run lovely, paint is a little aged,I bought it today off a fireman he ensures me it’s probably never down more than 30to40 hrs it was a backup at the fire station if the electric Bristol went down and it’s bin in storage for 20 years after the insurance wouldn’t cover it at the fire station or something, hence the fireman ended up with it.
Used fire station compressors are the cat’s pajamas if you can find a good low hour one that firemen haven’t worked on. When I actually worked as a mako tech, my life was fixing compressors after the firemen had fixed them.
 
Given it a good clean today found a plate and a cast/stamped number saying 54051090 am I safe to assume it’s a 5405 build date Oct 1990
 
Given it’s a good clean today found a plate and a cast number saying 54051090 am I safe to assume it’s a 5405 build date Oct 1990
I’ve never seen Mako serial numbers that way. But it’s a good guess. I always see something like 5405/E/90, which would be a 5405/4500 PSI/90th one built. It could be an EH, but that’s a 6000 PSI, and I don’t know if they made that in a high pressure block.
 
The mako serial number is found on the square plate in front, and stamped in the block in top where the first stage cylinder is. If you are in Manchester UK, not Manchester NH, I wonder if it’s a Reavell?
 
NOthing to add here but one comment confused me ,,,,,,, how do you slow a compressor by going to a smaller motor. I jowuld think it would be a ppulle belt wear issue for a small deviation and a 2 pole 4 pole issue for a very large deviation. Is it possable they changed from IE a 3600 to a 1800 rpm (orthe reverse) motor and did not get the perfect corrosponding or matching pullys for it ?
 
NOthing to add here but one comment confused me ,,,,,,, how do you slow a compressor by going to a smaller motor. I jowuld think it would be a ppulle belt wear issue for a small deviation and a 2 pole 4 pole issue for a very large deviation. Is it possable they changed from IE a 3600 to a 1800 rpm (orthe reverse) motor and did not get the perfect corrosponding or matching pullys for it ?
You change the pump RPM by changing the drive pulley. It’s likely that this pump has more engine than it needs. Even more likely that someone lowered the drive pulley size to squeeze a few more CFM out of it. See my comments above.
 
The mako serial number is found on the square plate in front, and stamped in the block in top where the first stage cylinder is. If you are in Manchester UK, not Manchester NH, I wonder if it’s a Reavell?
somView attachment 554258 View attachment 554258
The mako serial number is found on the square plate in front, and stamped in the block in top where the first stage cylinder is. If you are in Manchester UK, not Manchester NH, I wonder if it’s a Reavell?
D0C9E73B-9EEA-4985-BB33-D098BFADEAD3.jpeg
Manchester U.K. same number on this plate that’s cast or stamped in the crankcase, after a good clean and check found out why it was running a little fast 1400rpm someone had the fuel pipe off the engine and routed wrong on refitting it was pulling on the govener rod, routed correct checked pump rpm at 220 bar 1275 rpm, theirs a plate on the frame saying 5000psi but blow off valve is set a 220 bar
 

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