Strobe batteries

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Not necessarily bad, just not likely as good as they once were.If those are rebadged Eneloops and from that time period they should be fine. One of my better purchases after good analyzing chargers was a even better analyzing discharger. It ACCURATELY tracks, discharge from 0.1A > 2.6A, and give me repeatable internal resistance measurements. Gives me a lot more confidence about any given battery.
Syonyk's Project Blog: ZB206+ Battery Tester.
You do need a 4-wire test stand for optimal use
.
4-wire Test Stand Battery Holder for 26650,18650, AA, AAA, Button Battery 5A | eBay

It can only do one battery at a time, so testing a bunch takes awhile. I finally bought another.


I find it annoying that you have to be careful to not get China Eneloops if you want 'real' ones.
Fujitsu -made in Japan- are also great batteries. Probably come out of the Eneloop factory.
Here are some other possibilities for rebrands: Eneloop101.com | list of Rewrapped Eneloops ~ by ChibiM
 
Wow thanks for your message, I didn't know about them but that looks perfect!

I borrowed some eneloop pros from my brother (brand new) and tested my strobe with them, it's a significantly faster recycle time than my 2 year old amazon basics (made in japan) batteries. I'm gonna make more precise measurements but so far I'm getting 6 seconds vs 4 seconds.

But not sure about my strobes, even 4 seconds is way longer than what it should be according to the manufacturer, and if I press the shutter right when the light turns red the flash isn't ready, I have to wait at least 1.5second after the light is on before firing. I'll update this topic when I have more reliable tests :)
 
There has been. a lot of discussion about what the ready light actually means. Most strobe manufacturers put out a number but typically that number is to something like 80% charged.
Bill
 
Yeah that's what I read after posting this. That's very sad and shows the state of the industry for scuba diving photography:
Incompetent manufacturers trying to milk us with ****** products that are renewed every 5 years...

Seriously how hard would it have been for them to put 3 or 4 LEDS showing 25%/50%/75%/100% ready? Or a led that turns red when the power output you've selected is actually ready?

That's why I'm struggling to measure my recycling time, I basically don't know when the flash is ready to fire so it's just guessing and listening...

Anyways, that's off topic, sorry for the rant :D
 
The problem is that if say Inon did that and claimed 5 seconds for full charge and S&S says 1.3 second to charged (not full) which one would you buy. Right now it is classical specsmanship pure and simple. I don't have any (Pavel probably does) full charging circuit output curves but I suspect that if it is 1.2 seconds to 80% the last 20% will take a bit longer than 1.2 more.
Bill
 
I have been using the Duracell DX1500 NiMH Precharged for years in my Inon D-2000 strobes. I do not see any performance difference between them and Eneloop.
 
In our tests, and in the published literature (From both Panasonic and Duracell) at high discharge rates the eneloops are a fair bit (like 30%) better. In my tests at 1.5 A discharge they max out at about 1800 mAh.
Bill
 
I think I remember your tests, thanks. My Eneloops are my front line. My reserve are the 2400 mah Duracell Precharged. Just ordered some new Eneloops sets for my D-2000 strobes so they can start fresh this year.

James
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

Back
Top Bottom